Glen Brittle closed for 2 weeks from 4 November 2024
Highland Council roads department has announced that work will begin on Monday 4 November.
“Road closed to all but local traffic from Monday 4th for two weeks to allow for essential/emergency works.”
Funding from the Scottish government has been bolstered by the local council in order to upgrade the worst section of the Glen Brittle road (C1237).
Visitors and climbers will not be allowed any access during this period. Thank you for your understanding.
Exciting new Fairy Pools developments- FP LUST
FP LUST- Fairy Pool Luxury Ultimate Speed Tours
Is time a bit tight for that “must do” tick set right at the top of Scotland that doesn’t even have an airport?
Skye Guides is proud and excited to launch a premium new guiding product available throughout the year.
Take an exclusive 4*4 BMW off-road trip (with leather heated seats) right to your very own FP experience with none of the grime or meeting riff-raff.
Exclusive Service!
Luxury travel from the road right to your very own private pools and waterfalls. As you step out of the vehicle there’s a covered approach to prevent paparazzi. You’ll be in the Fairy Pools and nobody will see you apart from your followers.
Champagne chilled in the eternal snows of the majestic Cuillin mountains will be served before your first dip; the ultimate #wildswimming
Then warm up in our exclusive jacuzzi swirl pool, heated by the methane from the toilets at the visitor carpark.
We’ve had a special 5G satellite installed for perfect coverage to whatever your choice of social media.
Private secluded pools for couples.
Worried about too much rain? No need, as we use the local sheep to dam the narrow chutes and control the flow so you’ll never get washed away.
We’ve got a great selection of inflatable toys for you too and there’s a dancing Fairy performance every evening for the public with a special late show on Fridays for adults only.
Prices start at just £1000 per person with up to 4 people per tour. Weekend rates £2000 per person and all nighters just £10k per person. We’re taking full payment on booking so we can get a brand new 4*4 but towels are included in the price.
Book now through www.skyefp.LUST.scot
A quaint tale about our new super-exciting service to you, the tourist that deserves it all….
Due to incredible old age I regret to say that it’s time for me to hang up the walking boots and give myself an easier physical working life. We mountain guides can’t climb hills forever and, after 30 years of flogging up and down its time to think out of the box.
Handily enough the Fairy Pool folk have provided the perfect solution for me this winter. Millions of quid has been invested in a great off-roading track right to the most popular destination on Skye. Cheers for that.
Huge thanks to our chums at OATS, Macleod’s Estates, Visit Scotland, The Scottish Office at Westminster, Minginish Council and Skye Connect agreeing to let us use the new super-highway.
“Maximising the revenue streams for dynamic operators is key in our 3-month, long-term plan, for tourism on the island.”
Business owner Mike Lates said “ After surviving the Carbost to Fairy Pools rally we felt visitors would appreciate this wonderful new driving experience. Head down into the wilderness, across 2 traditional bridges constructed from local timbers to a haven of tranquility away from the tourist’s traumas for a quick luxury dip. Relaxed they can then face the next mine-field laden stage to lunch in Dunvegan.”
An application has been lodged with Highland Council to airlift the Inaccessible pinnacle into Coire na Creiche, corrie of the spoils, in order that the 2 major attractions can be ticked in the same trip whilst providing a top tombstoning location in Britain.
And finally, we’ve been asked about our track record? 3 minutes down there and back up in 5; all without getting caught 😉
SKYE WINTER FESTIVAL 2023
SKYE WINTER FESTIVAL 2023
February 16-19th, 2023. Glen Brittle Memorial Hut.
An open invitation to climbers, walkers and any others with an active interest in the Skye mountains in winter.
It’s that time again for climbers to meet up, climb together and enjoy the post-match analysis. The Cuillin truly take on their Alpine status in winter and offer climbing and scenery like nowhere else in Britain. There is a whole lifetime of adventures to be had!!
2023- Short n Sweet in the Glen.
4 days of stepping straight out of the door and into a Cuillin winter wonderland. This was how the festival started back in 2011!
Booking
If you’re interested in joining us just e-mail mike@skyeguides.co.uk to reserve beds. We’ll send you a booking form to complete with your climbing grade, Cuillin experience, and details to help with lift sharing.
Background information.
Over the past 12; walk right of the door years The Skye Winter Festival that has seen high levels of activity including over 60 new winter routes. The Cuillin offer massive challenges no matter how much or how little snow the gods decide to give us so there will be action every day.
The Skye Cuillin is an Alpine-style range offering mountaineering and climbing of the highest calibre that attracts real mountaineers but there is also a huge attraction for those who just enjoy being in amongst mountain scenery of such grandeur.
The festival is open to anyone between these 2 extremes and our only rule is that nobody gets left out! Come alone or with a climbing partner.
Guests come from far and wide as well as a strong local representation each year. The apres-climb is embraced wholeheartedly (interpret as you like); just choose a level that doesn’t stop the climbing! The festival has allowed us to meet some amazing people and hear about some incredible adventures.
The Climbing
Over the past 12 years we’ve well and truly blown the myth of the Cuillin being a poor option for winter climbing right out of the water. There is a whole range of possibilities from gentle wanders into the dramatic corries, hard-core mixed routes and the UK’s only true alpine mountaineering along the ridges.
It’s not all high-brow climbing with many parties enjoying the magnificence of the snow-clad Cuillin from the corries, easy peaks and the coast-line. There’s Neist or Elgol for rock climbing and we’ve got some dry tooling crags developed. Even skiing and boarding have been growing in popularity over the past few seasons.
What’s to do?
If you’re unfamiliar with what Skye has to offer check out any winter blog posts or a High Magazine article on “The New Cuillin” for plenty of ideas. On the ground there are plenty of folk with good knowledge including the guy that wrote the guidebook…
Accommodation and Food
The meet is based in the newly refurbished Glen Brittle Memorial Hut right at the foot of the Cuillin.
There are 20 beds cost £25 per night; van-dwellers are welcome to join us and use the facilities at a cost of £15pp per night.
The Memorial Hut has power showers, a good drying room and a good kitchen for self-catering.
The annual dinner is a big communal evening meal on Saturday 18th at a cost of £10pp. Not sure what we’ll go for but local venison steaks, genuine French fondue and full roast dinners have been the norm. Please join us and let your hair down!
Bed reservations will need to be paid for up front but, if you are unsure if you can make it, we can also let you know how busy the different nights are looking.
Costs
Attending the festival is free. Accommodation costs £25 per night for a bed and Saturday evening meal will cost £10.
Evenings
This is very much a climbing event and the traditional banter associated with it. Wonderful characters and craic are the norm and over the years we’ve had illustrated talks on a variety of climbing trips and watched videos. Guests are welcome to bring anything from musical instruments to their own climbing snaps.
The Annual Festival dinner is cooked communally.
Social media
Please keep up to date through the Skye Winter Festival facebook page and retweet news using this shortened URL–#skyewinterfest. Add your own photos to the facebook page and make sure that privacy settings allow everyone to see them please.
FAQ
Got your own campervan– Attendance costs £15 per night for use of facilities as well as the climbing & socially.
Last minute climber– We’re quite used to this scenario and happy for you decide to join us last minute. Keep in touch about bed space.
Unsure? Don’t worry if you don’t know the Cuillin- many of the Winter Festival regulars know the Cuillin very well, especially those who work here as guides. We’ll be offering route advice and information on the ground but, on the whole, it’s a non-working meet for us and we’re here to play like everyone else.
A list of attendees is circulated before the meet with details of their experience & depth of Cuillin knowledge. Through the meet walking and climbing teams slot into place after making acquaintances.
Don’t be intimidated- if your ambitions are modest there will be somebody similar who knows any time on Skye is quality and happy to just rock back and enjoy!
Travel– Let us know where you’re coming from and whether you want to share lifts- there’s a part of the part of the booking form to help put you together with others offering/needing lifts
SKYE WINTER FESTIVAL 2022
22nd to 30th January 2022.
An open invitation to climbers, walkers and any others with an active interest in the Skye mountains in winter. Join us for as many days as you want.
It’s that time again for climbers to meet up, climb together and enjoy the post-match analysis. The Cuillin truly take on their Alpine status in winter and offer climbing and scenery like nowhere else in Britain.
Skye Basecamp (Arrive 21st, climb 22-26th)
4 days climbing from the luxury of our very own Skye Basecamp. A 20-minute drive gives access to both Bla Bheinn and the northern peaks above Sligachan with walks and climbs at all grades.
Glen Brittle Memorial Hut (Arrive 26th, depart 30th)
5 days of stepping straight out of the door and into a Cuillin winter wonderland. This was how the festival started back in 2011! The Glen Brittle Memorial Hut is situated at the foot of the southern Cuillin with easy access to Coir’ a Ghreadaidh, Coir’ a’ Banachdaich, Coire Lagan and Coir’ a’ Ghrunnda.
Background information.
The Climbing
Over the past 12 years The Skye Winter Festival that has seen high levels of activity including over 60 new winter routes. The Cuillin offer massive challenges no matter how much or how little snow the gods decide to give us so there will be action every day. If you’re after hard technical mixed or just want to take in the grandeur the festival is open to anyone.
Our only rule is that nobody gets left out! Come alone or with a climbing partner.
Guests come from far and wide as well as a strong local representation each year. The apres-climb is embraced wholeheartedly; just choose a level that doesn’t stop the climbing! The festival has allowed us to meet some amazing people and hear about some incredible adventures.
What’s to do?
If you’re unfamiliar with what Skye has to offer check out any winter blog posts or an article on “The New Cuillin” for plenty of ideas. On the ground there are plenty of folk with good knowledge including the guy that wrote the guidebook…
There’s Neist or Elgol for rock climbing and we’ve got some dry tooling crags developed. Even skiing and boarding have been growing in popularity over the past few seasons.
Accommodation and Food
Beds cost £25 per night in both venues. Bedding is provided at Basecamp but pillow cases and sleeping bags are required for the Glen Brittle hut. Rooms are communal but split between sexes. There are 32 spaces in Basecamp and just 20 places in Glen Brittle. Space will still be available in Basecamp if demand is high enough.
The Memorial Hut and Basecamp both have good kitchens for self-catering. There is a supermarket in Broadford for last minute extras but a bit more planning is needed for Glen Brittle with the nearest supermarket being over 20 miles away! The annual dinner is a big communal evening meal on Saturday 29th January at a cost of £10pp. Not sure what we’ll go for but local venison steaks, curry feasts and full roast dinners have been the norm. Please join us and let your hair down!
Both venues have great power showers and there are drying rooms for damp kit.
Booking
If you’re interested in joining us send an e-mail to mike@skyeguides.co.uk. We’ll send you a booking form. We also ask about your climbing grade, Cuillin experience, and details to help with arranging partners and lift sharing.
Bed reservations will need to be paid for in advance. If you are unsure you can make it, we can also let you know how busy the different nights are looking.
Costs
Attending the festival is free. Accommodation costs £25 per night for a bed and £10 per night for use of facilities for van-dwellers. Saturday evening meal will cost £10.
Evenings
This is very much a climbing event and the traditional banter associated with it. Wonderful characters and craic are the norm and over the years we’ve had illustrated talks on a variety of climbing trips and watched videos. Guests are welcome to bring anything from musical instruments to their own climbing snaps.
The Annual Festival dinner is cooked communally.
FAQ
Got your own campervan– You’re still welcome to join us for climbing & socially. Use of facilities costs just £10 per night.
Last minute climber– We’re quite used to this scenario and happy for you decide to join us last minute. Keep in touch about bed space.
Unsure? Don’t worry if you don’t know the Cuillin- many of the Winter Festival regulars know the Cuillin very well, especially those who work here as guides. We’ll be offering route advice and information on the ground but, on the whole, it’s a non-working meet for us and we’re here to play like everyone else.
A list of attendees is circulated before the meet with details of their experience & depth of Cuillin knowledge. Through the meet walking and climbing teams slot into place after making acquaintances.
Don’t be intimidated- if your ambitions are modest there will be somebody similar who knows any time on Skye is quality and happy to just rock back and enjoy!
Travel– Let us know where you’re coming from and whether you want to share lifts- there’s a part of the part of the booking form to help put you together with others offering/needing lifts
BMC Wild Horizons Podcast on the Cuillin
Niall Grimes is well known in climbing circles and his Jam Crack Podcast interviewing top climbers is very popular. Last time I saw him we were giving our good friends Andy and Kate a proper North Wales send-off to their new lives in NZ. With plenty of Dutch courage inside me I sidled up to Grimer, admitted my climbing abilities are nowhere near up to the lofty heights required, & offered to impart some of my many opinions on the world of mountaineering if he was ever struggling for interviewees….
Roll forward 2 mad years and I get a brief message from the man who ate the Blarney Stone asking if I was up for giving some thoughts on the Cuillin as part of the BMC’s new podcast series Wild Horizons.
I really wasn’t sure how it would pan out but I feel that Grimer’s questions lead me well through a mix of Cuillin climbing, history, geology and philosophy. I hope folk enjoy listening on the link below.
Hot in Summer, Coolin Winter. An Alpine Traverse of the Cuillin Ridge 3&4 March 2021
“Whose idea was it to take the sleeping bags down for a wash after a summer of heavy use anyway?” I kicked this blame culture thought straight into touch and looked at what I’d got to get me through the night; not quite the same league as Apollo 13 but staying alive was still the base-line….
The recent lockdown period gave us one of the longest cold snaps Scotland has seen for a few years. Great fun for those of us lucky enough to live here but my mind always worries about the implications for the coming season. Old snowfields make Spring guiding in the Cuillin pretty challenging with crampons often needed into May.
By the start of March, just 2 weeks after climbing roadside ice, mountains in the Highlands had been stripped in all but the deepest gullies and broadest high corries. The crest of the Cuillin Ridge glows red in a sunset and the forecast looks peachy for a few days so I contact some locals with a Traverse as an ambition.
Ruaraidh has been working off-shore pretty much since our snowy jaunt up Bla Bheinn back in January and is keen as mustard. All of a sudden I have to focus sharply on what this challenge entails. It comes down to fitness, hard snow and just 12 hours of daylight; we’ll have to be slick if we are to succeed.
Elgol connections gave us our first break; a 6am lift on a fishing boat so the alarm was set for 4.15. Trusting my directions Craig the skipper guided the bow onto my drop-off rock in the dark as if he’d done it a thousand times before. Cloud cover made the steep ascent a hot and sweaty affair but I was worried about condensation. Sure enough, the rocks began to glisten as we climbed into the murk and my mind wandered onto quite how soon we would have to give up the attempt and how the hell we’d get back home.
Can’t say I approve of bucket lists but a cloud inversion was among those on Ruaraidh’s list and the weather-gods nailed this one just as we reached Gars-bheinn, the first summit. It would have been heaven to sit there all day drinking in the magnificence of snowy peaks poking up through the bright white sea of cloud, the waterfalls of mists tumbling over bealachs and the Broken spectres. I was as wowed as I always am but, most significantly, the Traverse was suddenly back on. We had 9 hours of daylight to reach our bivvy kit on Sgurr a’ Ghreadaidh…
Progress was good on the rough dry rocks over Sgurr nan Eag but I suggested leaving out the dog-leg to Dubh Mor and leave us margin for error. It was 11.15 as we kitted up with harness, helmet and crampons to traverse the snow necklace beneath Sgurr Alasdair.
Progress suddenly became stilted as we struggled with the incredible heat of reflected sunlight. Somehow the tiny section to the highest point on Skye had taken us 1.5 hours and we only had 5 hours of daylight left.
Sgurr a’ Ghreadaidh is the snowiest looking peak in the centre
Traversing Thearlaich is one of the major obstacles on the Ridge. With snow sitting on all the easy bypass ledges we were forced to cling to the top edge in some mad positions with testing climbing and ropework for the next 40 minutes but then got lucky with a bone-dry bypass on the Glen Brittle side at the nose. Conditions improved massively from Mhiccoinnich onwards with hours of perfect rock for the rest of the day. Plenty of exciting positions still, but the main challenge was striking a balance between progress and the need for food and water. The Pinn gave us a brief slowing of the pace which was very welcome compared to competing with the heat and blinding sunlight reflecting off the clouds below.
Delicate exposed moving over Sgurr Thearlaich
On Collie’s Ledge looking across to the Pinn as progress starts to pick up again.
The cloud-base rose as the sun and temperature dipped on the final rise to Ghreadaidh. It dipped just enough for a glimpse of the orange sun as we reached the bivvy but all focus was on getting tucked up before an evening of food, whisky and warmth. I abseiled down to the gear stash and sent the barrel back up. While Ruaraidh dug snow for us to cook with, I set to laying out the bedding and that’s when the wheels suddenly seemed to be coming off……
“Whose idea was it to take the sleeping bags down for a wash after a summer of heavy use anyway?” The cache has been in place for years, with 3 sets of kit changed regularly and whenever it gets soaked. It was all my fault; the grey matter had failed to remember asking the posse of strong guides to help during staff training last October and then clean forgot to get it all returned; doh.
Things weren’t that bad really. We had a sleeping bag, a bivvy bag, two sleeping-bag liners and half a dozen Karrimats so at least the client wasn’t going to suffer. Professional pride kicked in with bailing out not an option; I do love a challenge.
Boots off, into the liners then into the rucksack was first and allowed me to get the brewfest started. Warm food priority, one meal shared, then a big mug of tea. Filling the barrel with loose snow was a first and worked brilliantly to avoid having to move between brewing. Wrapping a Karrimat around the upper torso during inactive periods worked remarkably well at keeping my upper half positively warm and became key to the plan. After another brew Ruaraidh tucked me in and we both fell silent followed by the comforting sound of gentle snoring from the man with the full sleeping lux.
The morning after; snug as a bug and gently snoring
A brew made with melted snow needs to be sterilised with whisky which improved relaxation but, after an hour of decreasing comfort, it was time for another. The cycle of brews continued in surprising comfort with fine tuning of the self-wrap technique. Finally getting horizontal, a handy dehydrated meal wrapped in my spare socks made a comfortable pillow. Warmth hinged on not moving and there was a fine balance to be struck between stiffening limbs and jabby rocks versus the freezing hands and exposed flesh that losing control of my insulating roll would entail.
Nights spent in Alpine huts with loud snoring and heavy clumping all night has taught me never to expect to sleep but, instead, view the period as a bodily rest. Deep breathing helps and Mr Wimhoff certainly came into my thoughts at time. Keeping hands warm was achieved with different pockets dependent on the side I was lying on and, miraculously, the toes stayed warm in a single pair of socks.
At times the wind picked up and snow flurries passed through but the Paramo zipped up past my nose and the torch band kept my forehead warm. By chance I even developed a spiral-wrap technique that left a windbreak for my face, over the shoulder and down round the hips; pure luxury.
Z’s kicked in for sure; 7 hours doesn’t fly by if you’re suffering and Ruaraidh even woke for long enough to catch me snoring. “Best night’s sleep for over a month and I’m getting one of these Gortex bags for sure” pleased me that my client was on as good form as one could ever hope for. Teryaki chicken noodle pot tasted amazing for breakfast and slick teamwork had us on the go by 8am.
I’d clocked a big snow patch as our first obstacle and the overnight conclusion was that we were going to blend a crampon and a set of micro-spikes each. 
Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh’s tops.
That’s how we stayed for the whole of day 2, dictated by the frequency of hoar frost, damp or snow patches. So much about his performance was impressive and Ruaraidh’s recognition of that balance being better than whipping crampons on and off says it all; a good man to work with!
We bypassed Bidean both to save time and I was hopeful about finding a spring because we’d only melted just over a litre for the day. Hope didn’t spring eternal and we added thirst to the list of obstacles to overcome. Bypassing Am Basteir and getting to Gillean was clearly our best option as we dredged the barrel for strength and concentration.
Slap! Steel-hard snow in pre-formed footholds ducking under Am Basteir was, by far, the hairiest part of the whole outing and the decision to descend by the Tourist Route a no-brainer.
My man was so wired to the movement he didn’t even get the Glory shot of a selfie with the whole Ridge behind him as the clouds finally lifted fully.
Slept well that night 😉
Guiding may be possible later this summer.
Friday 29 May 2020 is the first day of a cautious loosening of lockdown measures in Scotland.
If the staged plan works as well as hoped there may be scope for mountain guiding to begin again around the start of August 2020, in line with phase three declared by the Scottish government.
In preparation for this Skye Guides are tentatively opening their diary to take bookings. With so many unknown factors there are provisos that need to be in place for this to happen. The list below is not exhaustive but will help all of us see what is possible and where more work needs to be applied.
The guidelines below may appear overly cautious, but we feel it is the only responsible way in which we can justify our part in opening up tourism. Social distancing must be maintained to protect you, the guide and the communities of Skye and Scotland. You will be asked to complete a form disclosing your pandemic social distancing history.
Incoming visitors are the danger to the local population. Please do not lower your guard just because you are away from home.
We have a responsibility to treat this access to the mountains as a privilege for both play and work. There is likely to be a need for all of us to be flexible and accept a greater degree of improvisation for this to work.
Bookings for remainder of 2020.
Client and guide social distancing
– this will be the primary safety factor against Covid 19. Our clients will be expected to be free of symptoms of Covid 19 and not to have been asked to isolate as part of the Trace and Protect Scheme. If there is any doubt, right up to the day of the booking we will err on the cautious side and cancel the outing with a full refund. We hope that you understand this. The danger of spreading the virus is very real and Skye Guides does not want to encourage and facilitate this at such a crucial stage of the pandemic.
Initially we are only accepting private bookings for individuals or members of the same household.
Unfortunately this will exclude many who are used to walking and climbing with regular partners from outside their own household. This is to follow the latest Scottish Government Guidance and we will review as this updates.
A maximum guiding ratio of 1:2 will be used for all but the simplest of Cuillin routes.
Full refunds will be given to any client that has to cancel their course in order to self-isolate.
Travel to Skye should be in privately-owned vehicles only. All advised precautions must be adhered to on the journey in terms of shopping and other communal venues. This will exclude use of public transport were prolonged exposure to the virus via strangers is a real threat.
Accommodation on Skye
Accommodation should be arranged before travelling to Skye. There is likely to be great pressure on accommodation providers so please be grateful for any solution you are offered. Our own climbers’ hostel will not be open because of the complications of social distancing. Wild camping may well see a resurgence in popularity.
Clients and guides should stay in accommodation that avoids close contact with others, taking advised precautions such as wearing of face masks and frequent washing of hands in line with any government advice.
Client and guide will travel in separate vehicles to the venue.
Practicalities on the activity-
If client and guide have adhered to social distancing since the start of the pandemic these extra measures will add another layer of safety against catching Covid 19. This does not lower their importance.
A face mask should be worn for any close interaction between client and guide. Hand sanitiser should be carried and used whenever a piece of kit is to be transferred between guide and client. All our equipment will be decontaminated between uses as recommended by equipment manufacturers.
Kit- you will be issued with a comprehensive kit list that should be packed and ready to set off. Any questions regarding kit should be discussed with the guide the evening beforehand.
Safety equipment supplied by Skye Guides- Your ruck sack should have sufficient space for a helmet and harness to be packed inside so that the guide can demonstrate how to do this from a safe distance at the rendezvous. Our kit will be collected, disinfected and cleaned at the end of each booking.
Fitting helmets, harnesses and tying onto the rope can all be demonstrated at a safe distance by the guide and done by clients themselves. A visual check can also be done at a safe distance. Guides should consider tying the knots themselves and clipping clients rather than teaching knot tying.
If you are planning to use your own harness or helmet, Skye Guides will not be able to inspect these items for defects without risk of contamination. You must do so at entirely your own risk and we would recommend you only use safety equipment provided by Skye Guides.
More precarious situations-
Guides should anticipate these and advise wearing of facemasks well in advance. Use of cows-tails (safety lanyards) will allow a safe degree of distancing in most situations. All clients should be instructed and happy to clip and unclip these without the guide’s assistance. Arranging abseils and loading client belay plates may involve closer proximity. Minimising time in these situations and awareness of the precautions should be priority.
Cuillin Ridge Traverses
A number of factors will make a successful Traverse even more difficult but we will try to overcome these if at all possible. This is likely to include the guide biviing away from you and you having to carry and handle all your own bivi equipment – especially food and drink. E.g. you will not be able to share any stoves.
Emergency situations and mountain rescue.
“The Scottish mountain environment is always potentially dangerous”. Signing our booking form means that clients acknowledge this and are willing to accept some responsibility. However, we have a duty to minimise our reliance on external help from other climbers and mountain rescue teams even more than usual during this pandemic.
It is strongly recommended that those who know they lack confidence, strength or balance think twice before booking a guide at this time. Vetting of clients and advising about their suitability for an outing is normal procedure. Please do not be offended if we advise you against booking.
Poor weather- our guides will be encouraged to add extra caution to plans in bad weather. We normally cancel very few bookings but, in these unique circumstances, there will be a refund system clearly stated in our conditions should the guide decide that an outing is just not possible on a safety basis. Our clause to offer “a suitable alternative activity” will still apply if we feel that the alternative activity is considerably safer.
Guides will carry some additional PPE against Covid transmission in first aid kits and any emergency will be dealt with as professionally as ever. Self-sufficiency and extricating ourselves from emergency situations without calling for help is normal. Clients should be aware that calling for the services of the local MRT will not be an automatic response unless really needed. You will be expected to carry your own small first aid kit to deal with any blisters or ongoing medical issues as the guides will not be able to help with these without breaking social distancing.
I have posted this to keep our clients, guides and other mountaineers updated with our current thinking. It is far from complete so your suggestions are welcome. Please get in touch by e-mail to mike@skyeguides.co.uk if you would like to make a booking or discuss any particular aspects.
Please remember that the main priority, as ever, is safety. Climbing in the Cuillin is a privilege, not a right. Thank you!
Christmas Comes but Once a Year
2020 has not been a good year for winter climbing conditions, particularly here on Skye. December was tropical and January’s storms rolled wildly from hot to cold and back again, right on through into February without taking a breath. At last, word on the frustrated ice-warrior grapevine was that Thursday might, just might, be windless, cold and still snowy. Surely there must be some amazing ice left after so much precipitation, wind and fluctuating temperatures…..
Lucy is quite possibly the keenest Cuillin climber in the world, even though she lives in Fife. Last minute plans need this level of commitment and my part of the bargain was to head out and check conditions on the ground. By Wednesday lunchtime Storm Ciara was in her death-throws. 
There was heaps of snow visible but steep rocks looked brown and dry, right to the tops. Beautiful though it was, I was feeling pretty pessimistic about finding us a big new route.
My mood swung enormously with pictures from Andy and Callum who were immediately above my head on the 5th Pinnacle. Acres of beautiful solid snow ice plastered everywhere; ye ha! 
Lucy was on her way and my head was exploding with a mix of optimism and terror. The terror at this stage was more about making the right shout and finding a good option; physical fear could wait until we find a line. At the same time I was like a kid in a candy shop with so many amazing existing climbs that we could go for if my lines turned out to be blank; but that’s not the new-routing “game”. 
Top of my list was a route first climbed in 1911. I went for a look back in December with Steve Worth but the blanket of wet snow wasn’t even remotely frozen.
Lucy and I arrived at Sligachan at first light and our line was “sort of” visible on a zoomed in photo-
The approach walk was glorious with crunching footfall and golden light.
Our line stayed out of view until the very last minute and there it was; thin but a continuous line of white ran up a shallow groove. 
Excitedly we kitted up with the pressure of a big route and many hours of work if we were going to succeed; and then disaster. I’d left my crampons behind. Chucking everything on the snow in a fit of frustration a set of micro-spikes miraculously appeared but they weren’t going to be much good with no front-points. Lucy didn’t skip a beat as she whipped off the crampons and pointed me at the sharp end; she wasn’t going to let a wee problem like this stop our fun!
I didn’t share her optimism and set up a belay immediately above the initial ice so I could pass down the crampons but she insisted on giving the micro-spikes a go first. I kept the rope tight but smooth and steadily Lucy joined me with the usual big grin and the route ahead opening up.
The ice was definitely not going to be taking screws and the sheathed rock bands looked very compact. I played out some major head games before committing to this pitch but the ease with which Lucy climbed had removed my main excuse to run away. I finally got into the zone and was rewarded with a juicy big cam placement from beneath the continuous white canvas 5 metres higher.
The climbing was superb; never too technical or sustained but a thoroughly absorbing mental game of delicate footwork and imaginative axe-work, wonderfully interspersed with regular dollops of bomber ice. Lucy cruised steadily upward and I was able to admire some super-imaginative foot, knee and Dachstein work as she got closer-
The amphitheatre above didn’t have an obvious line but logic said follow the fattest ice for the easiest way. A footless pull-up to knee-jam was probably the technical crux and the angle began to fall back as the rope ran out. A final pitch where the ice was finally fat enough for a screw and then the end was in sight.
We fed, watered and drank in the views before a bum-slide and comparatively short walk out then home for tea, biscuits and whisky 🙂
High Crag Sgurr nan Gillean. Christmas Comes but Once a Year, IV,4 165m *** ML and Lucy Spark, 13/02/20
Skye Winter Festival 2020
January 24th to 2nd February 2020; 10 days for our 10th Anniversary!!
An open invitation to climbers, walkers and any others with an active interest in the Skye mountains in winter.
It’s that time again for climbers to meet up, climb together and enjoy the post-match analysis. The Cuillin truly take on their Alpine status in winter and offer climbing and scenery like nowhere else in Britain. There is a whole lifetime of adventures to be had!!
2020- A full week in the Glen then to up to Skye Basecamp for the weekend and annual dinner.
7 days of stepping straight out of the door and into a Cuillin winter wonderland. This was how the festival started back in 2011! The Glen Brittle Memorial Hut is situated at the foot of the southern Cuillin with easy access to Coir’ a Ghreadaidh, Coir’ a’ Banachdaich, Coire Lagan and Coir’ a’ Ghrunnda.
After 7 nights in the Glen the festival moves to the big smoke and 2 nights in the luxury of Skye Basecamp.
Background information.
Over the past 9 years The Skye Winter Festival that has seen high levels of activity including over 60 new winter routes. The Cuillin offer massive challenges no matter how much or how little snow the gods decide to give us so there will be action every day.
The Skye Cuillin is an Alpine-style range offering mountaineering and climbing of the highest calibre that attracts real mountaineers but there is also a huge attraction for those who just enjoy being in amongst mountain scenery of such grandeur.
The festival is open to anyone between these 2 extremes and our only rule is that nobody gets left out! Come alone or with a climbing partner.
Guests come from far and wide as well as a strong local representation each year. The apres-climb is embraced wholeheartedly (interpret as you like); just choose a level that doesn’t stop the climbing! The festival has allowed us to meet some amazing people and hear about some incredible adventures.
The Climbing
Over the past 9 years we’ve well and truly blown the myth of the Cuillin being a poor option for winter climbing right out of the water. In 2018 Skye was the place to be with Traverses happening for over 8 weeks and multiple new routes. There is a whole mountain range of possibilities from hard-core mixed to truly alpine mountaineering.
It’s not all high-brow climbing with many parties enjoying the magnificence of the snow-clad Cuillin from the corries, easy peaks and the coast-line. There’s Neist or Elgol for rock climbing and we’ve got some dry tooling crags developed. Even skiing and boarding have been growing in popularity over the past few seasons.
What’s to do?
If you’re unfamiliar with what Skye has to offer check out any winter blog posts or an article on “The New Cuillin” for plenty of ideas. On the ground there are plenty of folk with good knowledge including the guy that wrote the guidebook…
Accommodation and Food
The meet will start in the newly refurbished Glen Brittle Memorial Hut right at the foot of the Cuillin.
Skye Basecamp will be our hosts for the following weekend.
Beds cost £20 per night in both venues.
The Memorial Hut and Basecamp both have good kitchens for self-catering.
The annual dinner is a big communal evening meal on Saturday 1st February at a cost of £10pp. Not sure what we’ll go for but local venison steaks, genuine French fondue and full roast dinners have been the norm. Please join us and let your hair down!
Booking
If you’re interested in joining us just e-mail mike@skyeguides.co.uk to reserve beds. We’ll send you a booking form to complete with your climbing grade, Cuillin experience, and details to help with lift sharing.
Bed reservations will need to be paid for but, if you are unsure if you can make it, we can also let you know how busy the different nights are looking.
Costs
Attending the festival is free. Accommodation costs £20 per night for a bed and Saturday evening meal will cost £10.
Evenings
This is very much a climbing event and the traditional banter associated with it. Wonderful characters and craic are the norm and over the years we’ve had illustrated talks on a variety of climbing trips and watched videos. Guests are welcome to bring anything from musical instruments to their own climbing snaps.
The Annual Festival dinner is cooked communally.
Social media
Please keep up to date through the Skye Winter Festival facebook page and retweet news using this shortened URL–#skyewinterfest. Add your own photos to the facebook page and make sure that privacy settings allow everyone to see them please.
FAQ
Got your own campervan– You’re still welcome to join us for climbing & socially.
Last minute climber– We’re quite used to this scenario and happy for you decide to join us last minute. Keep in touch about bed space.
Unsure? Don’t worry if you don’t know the Cuillin- many of the Winter Festival regulars know the Cuillin very well, especially those who work here as guides. We’ll be offering route advice and information on the ground but, on the whole, it’s a non-working meet for us and we’re here to play like everyone else.
A list of attendees is circulated before the meet with details of their experience & depth of Cuillin knowledge. Through the meet walking and climbing teams slot into place after making acquaintances.
Don’t be intimidated- if your ambitions are modest there will be somebody similar who knows any time on Skye is quality and happy to just rock back and enjoy!
Travel– Let us know where you’re coming from and whether you want to share lifts- there’s a part of the part of the booking form to help put you together with others offering/needing lifts
Winter Traverse conditions back again! 23 January 2019
Heads up to all Traverse aspirants that the Cuillin Ridge is in full winter condition and that progress is comparatively fast.
Blips of freeze thaw have left great cover and good consolidation. This improved by the day since the first snows arrived just last Thursday (17th) and walking out yesterday was a delight.
We approached by An Dorus and were glad of a trail but consistency was amiable and really we could have punched our own trail with just a bit more effort. The crest is glazed as well as snow cover so no squealing crampons. Summer bypass lines are holding more depth so harder work in ascent but quite forgiving in descent so choosing the best line is a good challenge.
Forecast is currently for a fair amount more snow to fall on Saturday, a bit better for Sunday onwards with more possible until Wednesday evening when winds are due to turn to the drier northerlies.
Climbing conditions are already good with plenty of ice forming and not needing that much more. Avoiding routes that are just blanketed will be the hard part but plenty of rewards to be had. The shot below is of White Wedding looking too thin for screws just yet.
Skye Winter Festival 2019
February 17th to 25th 2019
An open invitation to climbers, walkers and any others with an interest in the Skye mountains in winter.
It’s that time again for climbers to meet up, climb together and enjoy the post-match analysis. The Cuillin truly take on their Alpine status in winter and offer climbing and scenery like nowhere else in Britain. There is a whole lifetime of adventures to be had!!
2019- Its time for a return to the Glen!
5 days of stepping straight out of the door and into a Cuillin winter wonderland. This was how the festival started back in 2012! The Glen Brittle Memorial Hut is situated at the foot of the southern Cuillin with easy access to Coir’ a Ghreadaidh, Coir’ a’ Banachdaich, Coire Lagan and Coir’ a’ Ghrunnda.
After 5 nights in the Glen the festival moves to the big smoke and 3 nights with our fine friends and the Waterfront bunkhouse at the Old Inn, Carbost.
Background information.
Over the past 8 years The Skye Winter Festival that has seen high levels of activity including over 60 new winter routes. Over the years only 15 days out of 80 have seen no activity so come keen and you’ll get rewards.
The Skye Cuillin an Alpine-style range offering mountaineering and climbing of the highest calibre that attracts real mountaineers but there is also a huge attraction for those who just enjoy being in amongst mountain scenery of such grandeur.
The festival is open to anyone between these 2 extremes and our only rule is that nobody gets left out! Come alone or with a climbing partner.
Guests come from far and wide as well as a strong local representation each year. The apres-climb is embraced wholeheartedly (interpret as you like); just choose a level that doesn’t stop the climbing! The festival has allowed us to meet some amazing people and hear about some incredible adventures.
The Climbing
Over the past 8 years we’ve well and truly blown the myth of the Cuillin being a poor option for winter climbing right out of the water. In 2018 Skye was the place to be with Traverses happening for over 8 weeks and multiple new routes. There is a whole mountain range of possibilities from hard-core mixed to truly alpine mountaineering.
It’s not all high-brow climbing with many parties enjoying the magnificence of the snow-clad Cuillin from the corries, easy peaks and the coast-line. There’s Neist or Elgol for rock climbing and we’ve got some dry tooling crags developed. Even skiing and boarding have been growing in popularity over the past few seasons.
What’s to do?
If you’re unfamiliar with what Skye has to offer check out any winter blog posts or an article on “The New Cuillin” for plenty of ideas.
Accommodation and Food
The meet will start in the newly refurbished Glen Brittle Memorial Hut right at the foot of the Cuillin.
Waterfront Bunkhouse at the Old Inn will be our hosts for the following weekend.
Beds cost £20 per night in both venues.
The Memorial Hut and Waterfront both have good kitchens for self-catering and pub meals are available next door in the Old Inn throughout the 2nd weekend.
The annual dinner is a big communal evening meal on Saturday 23rd at a cost of £10pp. Not sure what we’ll go for but local venison steaks, genuine French fondue and full roast dinners have been the norm. Please join us and let your hair down!
Booking
If you’re interested in joining us just e-mail mike@skyeguides.co.uk to reserve beds. We’ll send you a booking form to complete with your climbing grade, Cuillin experience, and details to help with lift sharing.
Bed reservations will need to be paid for but, if you are unsure if you can make it, we can also let you know how busy the different nights are looking.
Costs
Attending the festival is free. Accommodation costs £20 per night for a bed and Saturday evening meal will cost £10.
Evenings
This is very much a climbing event and the traditional banter associated with it. Wonderful characters and craic are the norm and over the years we’ve had illustrated talks on a variety of climbing trips and watched videos. Guests are welcome to bring anything from musical instruments to their own climbing snaps.
The Annual Festival dinner is cooked communally.
Social media
Please keep up to date through the Skye Winter Festival facebook page and retweet news using this shortened URL–#skyewinterfest. Add your own photos to the facebook page and make sure that privacy settings allow everyone to see them please.
FAQ
Got your own campervan– You’re still welcome to join us for climbing & socially.
Last minute climber– We’re quite used to this scenario and happy for you decide to join us last minute. Keep in touch about bed space.
Unsure? Don’t worry if you don’t know the Cuillin- many of the Winter Festival regulars know the Cuillin very well, especially those who work here as guides. We’ll be offering route advice and information on the ground but, on the whole, it’s a non-working meet for us and we’re here to play like everyone else.
A list of attendees is circulated before the meet with details of their experience & depth of Cuillin knowledge. Through the meet walking and climbing teams slot into place after making acquaintances.
Don’t be intimidated- if your ambitions are modest there will be somebody similar who knows any time on Skye is quality and happy to just rock back and enjoy!
Travel– Let us know where you’re coming from and whether you want to share lifts- there’s a part of the part of the booking form to help put you together with others offering/needing lifts
Alpine success for Kevin. 18th July 2017
Stellar spell of snow conditions. January 29 & 30th
The snow this week came thick and fast and with no strong winds behind it, resulting in a beautiful uniform layer.
Yesterday this provided a wonderful cushion with no real need for crampons as we headed up the classic NW Ridge of Bruach na Frithe.
Very different from this time last year where sheets of hard snow gave very serious conditions.
Mara’s summit handstand was photobombed by Helen from Cioch Direct and we all enjoyed teasing glimses of the Ridge to the south as clouds rolled in and out.
Surprisingly a line of fresh prints led off ahead of us as we descended the South Ridge, others enjoying the superb conditions.
A rope kept us safe on the few steeper steps before a descent from Tairnilear and out past the Fairy Pools with some obligatory litter picking.
With such superb conditions and an even better forecast it was time to up the fun levels for today and Clach Glas seemed to fit the bill perfectly.
Phil joined me on the guiding today as Clair and Trevor started their Ridges and Routes course based at Skye Basecamp.
Far colder overnight had cemented the snow even better to the rocks. This meant crampons were compulsory but the combo gave incredibly positive footings.
My guess is that anyone on the Ridge today will have made superb progress.
The most technical section onto the Final Tower and descending the Imposter were pretty full-on, definitely grade IV climbing and a long abseil to get off the summit.
The bitter wind hit us on this side and a free facial scrub was dished out every time someone moved much in front of you!
All in all a very full-on day in some of the best conditions I’ve ever had on Clach Glas.
Skye Winter Climbing Festival 2017
This year’s festival has started in great style.
Leaving Skye Basecamp this morning; snow arrived right on cue and right to sea-level.
Sgurr a Bhasteir was quite black looking as we approached but there was some ice in the foot of Mike The Bhasteird.
It soon became too thin so I took to the blunt rib on the left, and just in time! The heavens opened and I watched a waterfall of snow pummel down the groove on my right. Some really good moves (with enough gear to be fun) led to the ledge at 40m and Pok followed with style.
Pok led on and coped well with the terrain and fierce stinging hail and gusting wind to find a semi-hanging stance below a final steep wall.
By the time we got down our sacks had nearly been buried 
The joys continued on the walk-out with amazing light and the mists rolled away.
And Sgurr a’ Bhasteir had transformed into Snow White. Our line is marked in red and is called Formali Known As. 90m IV,4
Thank you for all the support and help in 2016.
Photo courtesy of James Nichols- www.jcheynne.com
2016 has been monumental in many, many ways.
In our own little world Skye Guides has expanded considerably. The number of guided days reached a total well in excess of 500. Over 1000 clients were involved in 200+ ascents of the In Pinn and 30+ successful Cuillin Ridge Traverses. An enormous thanks to clients who trust our company so much and to the incredible team of guides that make these dreams come true. Gillian, Rich, Iain, Jamie, Niels, Tamsin, Caspar, Mike, Steve, Karen, Scott. Rory, Lou, Ollie, Jonny, Andy, Iain and Emma.
photo courtesy of Gillespie Macdonald
Much of my year was spent developing Skye Basecamp. Creating a hub of climbing knowledge and information on Skye has been in plans for many years. Basecamp is a dedicated climbers’ hostel and realising this part of the ambition feels like a massive step in the right direction.
Huge amounts of work were put in by friends old and new to finally allow us to open in August. Apologies to anyone I miss but thank you Catriona, Lucy, Beth, Annmarie, Tansy, Kieron, Ianto, Beads, Pete, James, Tom, Derek, Conor, Lachlan, Elanor, Mike, Faith, Chris, Helen, Remus, Bob, Jim, Jancis, Alan, Morgan, Nick, Ru & his mates, Innes, Ben, Uncle tom Cobbly n all….
We were busy from the outset and are managing to stay open right through this our first winter. Highlights are hard to select but the new kitchen inspired a series of visitors to get baking and cooking; the aromas as you come in the front door are superb.
Rendezvous at Basecamp gave a chance for guides and clients to discuss the days routes over an extra coffee whilst looking out at Broadford Bay vista.
Much has been made of what a mad world we became in 2016 and few of us are likely to be unaffected. What can be sure is that Skye and the Cuillin will continue show us what a wonderful world we do have around us.
Slainte Mha, Mike
Skye Winter Courses- places available
2017 Winter courses based at Skye Basecamp are filling well but we’ve still got space available.
-
Single place available for climber on a Ridges and Routes course.
-
28 January to 2 February
An advanced course suitable for guests with previous winter mountaineering experience and some knowledge of rope-work.
For those with ambitions to climb graded winter routes.
The itinerary will be adjusted to suit experience with examples on these web pages- winter-climbing and winter climbing skills
- 1:2 Ratio.
- 4 days guiding
- Up to 6 nights accommodation at Skye Basecamp
- Just £645pp
Dates don’t quite match or you have less time available? Contact us by email or call Mike on 07769221500
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2 places still available on Introduction to Skye Winter course
-
21-24 February.
A brilliant way to start exploring the Cuillin in winter. Suitable for guests used to full days of summer hill walking. There are some sample routes and itineraries here.
- Learn to safely tackle Cuillin peaks and ridges
- Introduction to ice axe, crampons and many other winter skills
- 1:4 Max Ratio
- 3-days of guiding
- 4 nights accommodation at Skye Basecamp
- Only £395pp
Dates don’t quite match or you have less time available? Contact us by email or call Mike on 07769221500
Skye Winter Climbing Festival 2017. New format- #skyewinterfest on tour!!
Week 1- Skye Basecamp Climbers’ Hostel, Broadford. January 12th to 15th
Week 2- Waterfront Bunkhouse, Old Inn Carbost. January 16th to 23rd 2017
Bonus facility- Access and beds in the newly refurbished Glen Brittle Memorial Hut throughout.
An open invitation to climbers, walkers and any others with an interest in the Skye mountains in winter.
It’s that time again. 2 weeks for climbers to meet up, climb together and enjoy the post-match analysis. The Cuillin truly take on their Alpine status in winter and offer climbing and scenery like nowhere else in Britain. We’re not expecting anyone to come for the whole fortnight but there is a whole lifetime of adventures to be had.
Booking
If you’re interested in joining us just e-mail mike@skyeguides.co.uk. We’ll send you a booking form to complete with your climbing grade, Cuillin experience, and details to help with lift sharing.
Bed reservations will need to be paid for but, if you are unsure if you can make it, we can also let you know how busy the different nights are looking.
Background information.
For the past 6 years staff and close friends of Skye Guides have held an informal winter meet that has seen high levels of activity including over 50 new winter routes. Over the years only 12 days out of 50 have seen no activity so come keen and you’ll get rewards.
Guests have come from far and wide as well as a strong local representation each year. The apres-climb is embraced wholeheartedly (interpret as you like); just choose a level that doesn’t stop the climbing! The festival has allowed us to meet some amazing people and hear about some incredible adventures.
The Climbing
Over the past 6 years we’ve well untruly blown the myth of the Cuillin being a poor option for winter climbing right out of the water. In 2016 Skye was THE place to be with Traverses happening for over 4 weeks and legendary ice routes seeing their first repeats in 30 years! There is a whole mountain range of possibilities from hard-core mixed to truly alpine mountaineering.
It’s not all high-brow climbing with many parties enjoying the magnificence of the snow-clad Cuillin from the corries, easy peaks and the coast-line. There’s Neist or Elgol for rock climbing and we’ve got some dry tooling crags developed. Even skiing and boarding have been growing in popularity over the past few seasons.
Last year’s festival had a superb first week with plenty of action. Week 2 turned tropical but those who hung around still got out for some quality adventures.
What’s to do?
If you’re unfamiliar with what Skye has to offer check out any winter blog posts or an article on “The New Cuillin” for plenty of ideas.
Accommodation and Food
On Tour!
This year we are splitting the festival between the new climbers hostel, Skye Basecamp in week 1 and then moving to the Waterfront Bunkhouse at the Old Inn for week 2. Beds and and facilities will also be available in the newly refurbished Glen Brittle Memorial Hut right at the foot of the Cuillin.
Beds cost £15 per night in any of the 3 venues.
Catering 2017-
Self-catering in the well-equipped kitchen or eat in a variety of pubs in Broadford or next door in the Old Inn during week 2. There will be 2 big communal evening meals on the Saturday of each weekend at a cost of £10pp. Not sure what we’ll go for but local venison steaks, genuine french fondue and full roast dinners have been the norm. Please join us for these meals and let your hair down!
Costs
Attending the festival is free. Accommodation costs £15 per night for a bed and Saturday evening meals will cost £10.
Evenings
This is very much a climbing event not a film festival but, over the years we’ve had illustrated talks on a variety of climbing trips and watched videos. Guests are welcome to bring anything from musical instruments to their own climbing snaps.
The Old Inn probably the best pub in Carbost
Social media
Please keep up to date through the Skye Winter Festival facebook page and retweet news using this shortened URL–#skyewinterfest. Add your own photos to the facebok page and make sure that privacy settings allow everyone to see them please.
FAQ
Got your own campervan– You’re still welcome to join us for climbing & socially.
Last minute climber– We’re quite used to this scenario and happy for you decide to join us last minute. Keep in touch about bed space.
Unsure?– The addition of weekend skills symposiums will offer a cheap way to have professional advice and leadership. Don’t worry if you don’t know th Cuillin- many of the Winter Festival regulars know the Cuillin very well, especially those who work here as guides. We’ll be offering route advice and information on the ground but, on the whole, it’s a non-working meet for us and we’re here to play like everyone else. A list of attendees is circulated before the meet with details of their experience & depth of Cuillin knowledge. Through the meet walking and climbing teams slot into place after making acquaintances.
Guiding– Although officially this is a playtime for the guides private guiding will be available on request.
Travel– Let us know where you’re coming from and whether you want to share lifts.
Silver Fox V,5. First new route of the season is a cracker.
An extra bit of motivation is always handy in winter so a new climbing partner, and Cuillin winter virgin at that, was very welcome.
Bla Bheinn on Thursday had shown that the snow was very powdery. As we headed into Coire Lagan I was looking for something to climb that would still have some of that rain from earlier in the week holding the snow together.
Old favourites on Thearlaich BC Buttress were tempting but the long slog up a powdery Stone Shoot was anything but.
I’ve had a long curving fault line from the corrie floor to the crest of Sgurr Mhiccoinnich on my radar for many years. It has a steep and intimidating finish that had put me off so far but my new partner has climbed with some auspicious partners and I didn’t want to disappoint.
Taking in the views from the easy lower slopes.
We soloed up some pretty rough and rocky ground for the first 60m until a short corner suggested a rope may be wise. Things got surprisingly steep soon afterwards so the 2nd rope and full concentration were the order of the day. This flip into action sadly means there aren’t many photos but here is Sophie topping out at the end of what turned out to be the crux pitch.
Another long and absorbing pitch followed with just the right combination of protection, hard won hidden hooks, turf, gymnastic manouvres and even some quality snow and ice.
Entering the bowl below the intimidating exit grooves things were getting distinctly gloomy as the light faded and wet snow drove into the face. Studying the possibilities as I took in the rope I reckoned a crack in the rock face above looked like my best hope of reaching the top and still making the evening dinner dance appointment. If it proved too hard or slow it would just have to be defeat and a multiple abseil descent.
Fortunately the rock was wonderfully solid gabbro and everything came together even better than I could have hoped. High fiving on the crest was followed by a rapid pack and scary traverse along the deeply powdered summer line. Bum sliding the An Stac screes was a brief respite but I managed to lose us on the exit from the corrie as snow drove into the face (poor excuse!).
We bid farewell, I made the main meal thank goodness and its only been through today that I’ve fully appreciated quite what a quality climb we had done.
Sgurr Mhiccoinnich- South Face
Silver Fox, V,5 235m **
Mike Lates & Sophie Grace. 19 Nov 2016.
Post Script-
Sophie’s own account gives a more eloquent description and more technical details for the climber. Personally I found the route “thought-provoking” the whole time!
Mike Lates and I went up Coire Lagain to have a look at an unclimbed basalt dyke line on Sgurr Mhic Choinnich.
It’s four or five pitches of superb climbing. The basalt is not always very helpful, and there was a whole lot of powder but there wasn’t a whole lot of ice. You repeatedly find yourself with your back or your right shoulder wedged into a bottomless left-facing corner, often undercut and overhanging, with plenty of right-hand hooks and placements in the depths of the corner (but careful–it’s loose in there), and bugger-all out on the sleek basalt powder-covered slabs to your left, which are only too solid. Footwork needs to be good, and tends to involve a single teetering crampon-point striking sparks out of some tiny rounded nubbin. As Mike said, it’s all about opposing forces. Bridging is your friend here. Foot-jams, knee-jams, elbow-jams, thigh-jams, pack-jams and full-body-jams were also deployed. So quite thought-provoking at times, and generally speaking much harder than it looks– till the much more user-friendly gabbro kicks in on the final pitch, which is the steepest and most fearsome-looking bit of the whole route, and nowhere near the hardest bit.
Pitch lengths were- Solo- 60m, P1-50m, P2-40m, P3-50m, P4-35m
The conditions were excellent. Not everything was frozen at the bottom, but it most certainly was at the top. There was heaps of snow already when we left the car park at dawn (8am), and plenty more had fallen by the time we got back there (7pm–so a short day in the Cuillin). While we were climbing we had two clear spells and two snow-showers.The second clear spell had actual sunshine–great for me as belayer, less good for Mike as leader. Standing on belay in the sunshine at 2500ft in knee-deep snow, looking out over Coire Lagain to Loch Brittle, over Canna and Rum and Muck, to Pabbay and Mingulay and the infinite ocean beyond: this is not something I will forget in a hurry.
Mike’s seen these conditions hundreds of times before, of course, but this is my first winter day ever in Skye. We were talking animals–he told me how when he did the Cuillin traverse in winter he was following a fox’s footprints all the way from Gars-Bheinn to Gillean. (Bruach na Frithe to Gars bheinn ML)
So it turned out the route was actually a completely brilliant day’s climbing. Not optimal conditions, sure, but way above the minimum acceptable. Mike led it like a boss, and I got up it with the odd wobble and squeak, but without actually falling off anything. And then on the walk-out we had a nice little botanical ramble in the dark. As you do 
🙂
After all the pessimistic and sceptical meteorological banter on Facebook the other day about slush-covered rubble and unfrozen turf, and how there was nae chance of a decent climb anywhere this Saturday, let alone in a south-facing corrie in Skye, there was only ever one possible name for the route. After plenty brainstorming from us both during the day–slightly held back for most of it by the fact that until well after sunset we didn’t know for sure we were going to finish it–Mike finally nailed the name at the top of the walk-off… It is of course The Silver Fox**, 235m, V, 5.
Good early start to Cuillin Winter. 17th Nov 2016
Conditions went from “ridiculous to the sublime” in just 3 days this week. On Monday Juan and Miguel from Mallorca had some type 2 fun across the knife edge of Ghreadaidh in a tropical rainstorm and certainly the wettest day of the year that I’ve had. No photos that day!
On Thursday, by contrast, Jo and Dan were able to take their time admiring and photographing immense scenery throughout our sortie up and across Bla Bheinn in deep snow. A selection of shots is enough to tell the tale of a wonderful start to winter-
A new dawn- Skye Basecamp
Dawn over Broadford Bay yesterday.
Many apologies for letting the blogging slip this season but here’s the project we’ve been working on. Many thanks to everyone for their help and support which has been overwhelming.
SKYE BASECAMP- accommodation for lovers of the great outdoors.
Skye Basecamp Climber’s Hostel is now open in Broadford and available for booking.
We welcome everyone but we do want this to be a facility for walkers, climbers and outdoor lovers. In order to create this we are publicising first to guiding clients past & present, climbing friends and mountaineering clubs. Please feel free to share our news around; thanks.
SPECIAL OFFER FOR EARLY BOOKERS
We have some special offers on for just a few more days- book 3-5 days and get your last bed-night free or 10% off booking a whole room. Just click on the availability calendar for Skye Basecamp
WHY STAY WITH US AT SKYE BASECAMP?
- The business is owned and run by Mike & Catriona who run Skye Guides, so you can expect the same high quality of service.
- 30 brand new beds in a selection of private rooms and small dormitories (max 6 per room) with linen provided.
- Prices from £20 per bed and private rooms from £90 per night.
- 800 litres of pressurised hot water for 6 showers.
- Large open plan kitchen/dining room with all the facilities and appliances you can want for self-catering.
- High efficiency drying room.
- Large living room and conservatory with pool table looking out over the stunning vista across Broadford Bay.
- Just one minute’s walk from the centre of town with the supermarket, 4 pubs and numerous quality places to eat out right on your doorstep.
- Staffed full time and open all day ( but room check-out 10am & check-in after 4pm).
- Open all year round.
- The whole building is available for private group bookings; ideal for club meets, conferences or running courses
- The guides room is reserved for our guiding staff through the summer season. They will be on hand much of the time to advise on routes and conditions.
BOOKING-
Booking on-line through the Skye Basecamp website will show all beds and rooms available.
Look forward to seeing you all soon, Mike & Catriona
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REVIEWS so far-
Great base to explore Skye. Bunkhouse is fantastic, great showers, comfy beds, kitchen facilities are really good and most importantly really friendly and helpful staff. HC 19/09/16
The Skye Basecamp hostel is brand new and excellent for climbers or outdoor minded people. The showers are excellent, so are the beds. There is a large common area with a big kitchen. From the front you have a great view over the bay!
PS: great hospitality:) JK 28/9/16
Stunning vistas, handy location, good wifi, good drying room plus they’ve nailed the perfect atmosphere for people who enjoy the hills. RP 17/09/16
Flying start to the season.
A complex & unusual set of circumstances, coupled with a blast of Arctic air, gave our first Traverse of the year a very unique feel.
Basically I guided Phil on the first half of the Traverse then Scott Kirkhope took over for day 2 to successfully reach Sgurr nan Gillean.
Our days couldn’t have been more different- I enjoyed largely dry, warm rock, no need for crampons and even some gorgeous sheltered picnicking.
Often we were forced to stay on the very top of the crest which just added to the pleasure.
Sgurr nan Eag to Ghreadaidh took us about 7.5 hours
Scott woke to fresh snow falling and had crampons straight from the bivvy until reaching Glaic Moire nearly 3 hours later.
Much of the time was in the cloud with wind picking up in strength but Phil’s fitness & abilities kept them moving well. The clouds finally cleared on the final rise up Gillean, revealing once more the whole lenght of the Traverse. Ghreadaidh to Gillean had taken about 6.5 hours.
Despite the darkness I enjoyed picking my way off, crampons completely necessary until way below An Dorus where Scott and I passed and compared notes before he joined Phil for the bivvy about an hour after I’d left. The final hour was a delight with the moon casting my huge shadow across the moorland. Catching last orders in Carbost seemed a deserved reward.
One of the unusual circumstances was Phil flying himself into Broadford airstrip and, this morning, we were treated to a quick flight around South Skye before he headed home to England. Many thanks to Scott and Phil for a memorable time in so many ways.
Alpine rock climbing. 14th April
Warm rock in the fingers with snow-reflected sun seeming to double the heat; we could have been on the south face of the Midi.
No Japanese tourists clapping our efforts here though, just a couple of friends taking it all in with eagles circling above them.
The sheer quality of the climb astounded me again, easily as good, if not better, than it’s classic neighbours. Clean rock, positive holds and great protection but no pushover. A positive effort was needed to avoid being drowned in the exposure, stay alert to what damage the harsh winter may have done or just suppress the temptation to jump for joy.
South Crack I love you, and Peter had a Cheshire Cat grin even though he’s from Lancashire where smilin’ ain’t manly 😉
Would have been rude to have run away without climbing the East and West Ridges too and three routes were saluted by 3 Sea Eagles but this pic is of 2
There is a weather god.
John and I spent a large part of Wednesday with incredibly heavy snow falling out of dark black clouds but the weather gods smiled on us in great big stylee 🙂
Despite John’s undoubted fitness and ability my ambition to tackle the In Pinn was optimistic before we started. However, it was clear and dry as we left the glen and stayed that way for the first hour where we reached the 2000ft mark.
The magnificent view into Coire Lagan was soon obscured as mushroom-sized snowflakes fell vertically out of the windless skies.
The density of cloud and intensity of snow would have got many folk down but Johnny is a man who loves the mountains whatever they chuck at him. The carpet underfoot fairly rapidly became knee-deep but every foothold formed as a solid level tread. At the final narrowing it was time to don harness, helmet and crampons and the magic of the day really began to a crescendo. Words aren’t really enough so here’s a sequence that hopefully gives a flavour of it…….
Just a few steps and the cameras just had to come out again……..
And things just got better as we moved in on the Pinn itself….
I have to admit to being both shocked and very pleasantly surprised at just how bare the route looked- compare it to the pictures of Gillean yesterday! Keeping crampons on seemed prudent but gloves were completely uneccesary with warm dry rock more positive than 90% of summer ascents I’ve done!
I finally found John’s nemesis with the abseil requiring him to trust a bit of science and let the rope slip through his fingers- you can just see the tension building across his face here perched above a 60ft vertical drop; sorry John couldn’t let your mates think you were that cool 😉
The moment we reached our rucksacks again the clouds rolled in and heavy snow started falling all around us. It didn’t give up until we had crossed all the way over to Sgurr na Banachdaich and right down to 1500ft in Coir an Eich. 
With perfect timing once more, instead of getting a soaking below the freezing level, the clouds cleared to warm sunshine
and a perfect view of our whole route
And just to top it all off eagle eyed John even spotted an eagle soaring high between the peaks of Coire Lagan; thanks to the mega-zoom on the Panasonic Lumix we can identify it as a wandering sea eagle. Another boring day in the office for me obviously 😉
Winter is back! 30th March
Winter is back with a thick covering on all faces above 500m.
Had a great fun family day on Bla Bheinn yester day with the Jackson 5 yesterday including a great snowman built by Hugo & Annabel on the summit. Another highlight was watching a golden eagle soaring amongst the cliffs as we walked in.
Today John and I enjoyed an enormous adventure on Am Basteir and Gillean with hard graft and plenty of challenge.
One more wafer thin ice climb sir? 10th March
Winter climbing conditions this past month have been truly stunning on Skye, undoubtedly the best I’ve known in 23 winters. The elusive Winter Ridge Traverse has been in condition and completed for 4 weekends on the trot with debates over records making headlines in the climbing news. Mythical ice routes have been climbed for the first time since Mick Fowler’s ascents 30 years ago (1986 was a legendary winter climbing season across the UK), many quality new routes have been added and modern mixed test-pieces such as Hung Drawn and Quartered have been repeated.
Most significantly though, dozens and dozens of folk have visited for the first time and discovered just how glorious the Cuillin are under a blanket of white. Sure the hardcore have grabbed the headlines but it’s those with more modest ambitions that have discovered that there is something here for everyone. It has been a pleasure meeting and hearing from so many folk who have finally “seen the light”.
On Wednesday evening I met Adam & Sofia at Sligachan, climbers looking for their first Scottish winter experience. Working in Patagonia and Alaska normally they had opted against the crowds on Ben Nevis, Adam’s grandad had always told him Skye was a climber’s Mecca. I agreed and pointed them towards the ice-clad amphitheatre on Mhadaidh for a look. A helpful assistant in Ellis Brighams had disuaded them from buying extra screws for the Cuillin but luckily I had a few spare in the back of car I wasn’t planning to use til Friday.
When I got home and saw Friday was forecast to see a major thaw all sensible ideas an office day on Thursday went out of the window and I asked my new friends if I could come & play with them; not only might this be the end of the Cuillin ice this season, I may not see it like this again for the next 30 years!
A stunning dawn greeted us, windless and crisp only base layers were needed for the short approach.
We were spoilt for choice, big new lines were tempting, a rematch with Icicle Factory too but we opted to try Spirulina, a new grade V put up by Uisdean and Lea last week.
Boys look in awe as Sofia sets the go-pro
Adam led the first pitch very well, especially as he admitted it was his first ice for a couple of years. Sofia & I both got a good pump just following him up, typically, the deceptively steep ice.
It had started to get noisy all around us as temperatures rose and snow sleuffed off from high above but the mixed moves above looked easy enough and would lead us to the mega looking higher pitches of Spectacula, irresistable!
Irresistable that was until I got hit by the first big sleuff. Our planned descent was back down the route and into the amphitheatre; not a good place to be. I faffed back & forth with the up/down dilemma but reasoned that there was bound to be a good anchor above to abseil off after just “one more slice of icy indulgence”. Perfect climbing but not at all enjoyable as the volume of snow and noise increased and I wished I’d just backed off easily.
Crap rock meant I had to dive into the channel for good ice anchors. Should I bring the others into this spot too or just make the decision myself? Logic is a hard thing to retain under these circumstances but I knew now there were no big ice pillars above us to fall off so it was unlikely that anything more than wet snow would come down. Belaying them up was still a tense affair but the shared easy decision to abseil back off and their happy banter allowed me to mentally relax just a wee bit.
We ducked (and prayed a wee bit) whenever stuff came down while Adam expertly built Abalakov anchors and Sofia and I sorted the ropes.
We knew it would be close but there was great relief as Adam whooped and had obviously reached the bottom in one go, rather than needing to re-anchor for another abseil.
At the base there was urgency as everything was rammed into sacks and we ran away from the hail of somewhat harder bullets. Only after exiting the Amphitheatre did we finally relax and start the process of really enjoying what a great experience Spirulina had been.
Winter heaven continues. 9th March
Earlier this week the forecast was not good for Gill & Euan’s day out; so glad I don’t pay much attention to long term forecasts!
With clear blue skies and tons of pristine new snow it was a no brainer to head out straight from their base at the Sligachan Hotel. Good on the hotel which has re-opened earlier than usual and looked absolutely packed out with residents as a reward.
I did suspect we had a hard day of deep wading ahead so left our ambitions open but, instead, the very first snow we reached justified crampons. Broad Gully is a favourite of mine with superb rock architecture and conditions were utterly perfect with full foot support pretty much every step.
Skiers would have loved conditions today as this continued almost uninterupted right to the top of Sgurr a’ Bhasteir. There were a couple of very short wind-scoured harder sections but it was easy to cut back onto the good stuff.
The vistas just kept coming as we crossed the head of Fionn Choire and out to Bruach na Frithe.
Euan was so impressed with the “lady of the Trig point” he had to give her a kiss!
We may not have had skis but such superb conditions weren’t to be missed- we headed back to Coir’ a’ Bhasteir and took a very direct line back to the corrie floor on our butts; definitely Gill’s highlight of the day!
The quantity of snow that has come down over the past couple of weeks is astounding and there is unusual climbable ice everywhere; hopefully the thaw forecast for the weekend will be kind and leave us something to play on next week.
Mega conditions continue. 3rd March update.
Ice above 700m has survived well by the look of things today so last weeks classics should all be in this weekend.
Some fresh snow but nothing like quantities I’m hearing about elsewhere. Effect on the Traverse is probably harder work for the first party again but still full nick & highly achievable by a fit team; what is the running total for this season so far???
For those who didn’t gather last week and weekend saw the best all round Cuillin conditions I’ve ever known. Plenty of Traverses over the weekend 20/21.
Beads and I got finally (tried 3 times beforehand) got the 2nd ascent of White Wedding on Tues 23rd with superb ice. By Saturday this was soloed by Andrew Barker on the 4th ascents.
Andrew climbed West Buttress of Bidean @ II/III earlier in the week. Andy Nisbet & Ssandy Allan climbed a line on the Coruisk side of the Pinn on Friday and another called SkyeFall at IV,5 on Sunday 28th.
Uisdean & Adam Russel climbed NE Gully on Mhiccoinnich with Guy Robertson who got the meaty pitch at V,6 and they all climbed another obvious line beside Practice crag at IV that afternoon.
I took to the air from the top of the icicles on Icicle Factory on Thursday after 3 superb approach pitches.; annoyed but now happy to be unscathed. Skye boys James Sutton, Ben Wear & John Smith finally got the 2nd ascent narrowly beating Uisdean, Adam & Douglas Russell. More than a consolation was the parallel line of Spectacula VI,6. The teams then swapped routes and James even tried to complete the trilogy with the Smear but found it brittle & wet. Thanks for retrieving my gear guys.- http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=272086
Scott Webster & Yanis indulged in a sunny Traverse over the weekend while Anna Wells was back for another single day effort. Having to break trail they stopped short of the end but loved the experience anyway. Other teams also enjoyed but failed to complete with route-finding, exposure and general speed cited- great route but don’t underestimate how hard it is!
Escape from Colditz III is recorded as climbed and I’m sure there was plenty more I’ve missed.
Oh yep; Team Neil Adam & Silver climbed HDQ on Am Bastier on Sunday in ace conditions; it appears to be panning out at VIII,9 and uber classic.
Sounds crowded? An average of 1 team per corrie so not really Come & get it while you can cos looking warm from next Wednesday.
Photo credits to Lucy Spark, Scott Webster, Yaris Volmer.
Skye Winter Festival 2016. 14-27th January
The first week of the Skye Winter Climbing Festival was very productive with keeness, weather and conditions allowing great climbing every day. The weather for the second week wasn’t the best but Skye still produced its magic for everyone who ventured out.
The small selection of the pictures here may make a few of you jealous but there were some stupid early starts, wild weather to battle, grit, determination and incredibly hard work needed to achieve this and we didn’t enjoy it one bit so don’t feel too bad 😉
The meet started with a huge bang from Skye boys James & Doug Sutton making the first winter ascent of Crack of Dawn. Grade VIII is as hard and serious as any route on the island and well untruly keeps the Cuillin on the hard man’s radar.
Late finish on Crack of Dawn
Weipeng, Maymay & I had a more gentile day taking in a feast of light & colour on an ascent of Bla Bheinn. Their Sony camera produced some of the best quality shots of the week.
On Friday Pat Ingram and I looked at a new crag low in the Cuillin to avoid the deep powder higher up. Park Lane V,4 wasn’t as frozen as hoped for but gave good some very good climbing.
Pat Ingram stepping into the main line on Park Lane
Beads & Dave Bowdler got a beaut of a route following North Rib of Banachdaich Gully at grade IV,5 with steep well protected climbing.
Beads approaching the crux of North Rib, IV,5
Saturday the good forecast was slightly out but just added more snow & ice to the fun. Lucy & Nathan must have had 1.5 hours on the belay waiting for me to top out on Owl Chimney IV,5; thanks guys.
Fierce weather on Owl Chimney IV,5 *
The route was technical right to the top but well protected. A bonus for all of us was seeing the Owl Pinnacle which is as elusive as the real bird from almost all angles in the corrie. Beads & Dave added a direct start to South Buttress just to our right at IV,4.
The elusive Owl Pinnacle
Meanwhile Michael Barnard & Pat were climbing Tres Difficile V,6 a steep line immediately left of the TD Gap summer route. They then moved onto the south face of Alasdair and a line immediately right of Michael’s route from last year Skye High. They abseiled off after a pitch with Michael keen to come back and add anothe pitch to complete the route.
Michael high on Tres Difficile, V,6 TD Gap.
A 5am start on Sunday allowed Michael and me to get 2 new routes climbed on the Stone Shoot face of Thearlaich. Both were very technical and I was very glad to be following. The Bogeyman, VI,7 was a serious and sustained route that looked as promising as the route next door (Curse of the Hobgoblin V,6) but was very sparse on gear and had more than it’s share of loose rock.
Far more solid but desperately steep the line closest to the top of the Stone Shoot gave Mr Charlie VI,7 which I finished off by squeezing under the summit cairn itself.
On Monday Michael, Julian Goddard and Mark Pratt had a long day climbing Fox’s Rake III,4 in not quite ideal conditions with more snow than ice but all good fun and a headtorch descent.
Julian on Fox’s Rake
Tuesday had me kicked out of bed at 5 again as Michael had a mission to finish his route on Alasdair. Pat had promised me that the first pitch was very good and he wasn’t lying; a beautiful line with positive hooks and good gear all the way.
Temperatures were rising rapidly as Michael explored the options above before finally returning to the belay soaked through. I took the obvious easiest line of weakness up a tapering ramp above the steep initial wall. It looked blank and smooth to start with but a bit of courage was rewarded with a cluster of bomb-proof gear before running it out on a series of positive edges and small hooks. Michael’s sling was still there at the top of Skye High from last year and I was able to see the quality of that route as we abseiled straight down the line; inspiring stuff.
Michael’s quality route The Sheriff’s Ransom V,6 on Sgurr Alasdair
With the thaw setting in we intended to lower the bar for Wednesday’s ambitions; it seemed likely that the In Pinn would be stripped bare and make a suitable outing for what seemed likely to be the last day of winter climbing. It was very obvious we were wrong about the thaw from quite an early stage but this was embraced with glee by the others; I’ve been pretty scared on the Pinn in full winter garb so was reserving judgement.
Climbers for scale below the firigtening Inacceessible Pinnacle
The climb was pretty epic with Michael leading the route in 2 halves and then me,Mark and Johnny following. All captured nicely on a Go-pro on Johnny’s helmet you can enjoy it here- Inaccessible Pinnacle
Outings later in the week were more sedate but any efforts were rewarded hansomely as ever with drama and scenery like only Skye can do properly-
Ardtrek point with Annmarie
Core Lagan in full thaw!
Dry tooling at Fiskavaig
The annual dinner was a highlight as ever. Iain addressed the Haggis in stunning style that matched his dry-tooling earlier in the day; in fact that’s how he learnt to cut the haggis with the ice axe so accurately. Beads gave the after dinner speech, the before dinner speech and the during dinner speech. Slainte Mha!
Click on the images below, once for the thumb-nail and again to view full size.
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- Gar-bheinn and Bla Bheinn seen from Bealach na Bo the day before we start the festival
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- Doug Sutton following brother James up the very hard Crack of Dawn, VIII FWA
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- Finishing the final pitch by headtorch on Crack of Dawn
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- Pinnacle Ridge on Thursday 14th
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- Magical morning light on Beinn na Cro, Thursday 14th
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- Morning mists over Loch Slapin
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- Bla Bheinn & Clac Glas
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- Bla Bheinn panorama on day 1, Thursday 14th
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- Beautiful start past Fairy Pools on Friday 15th
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- Pat enjoying the nearly frozen challenge on Park Lane V,4 first ascent
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- Beads on FWA North Rib, Banachdaich Gully
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- Coire Lagan view evening Friday 15th
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- Starting Owl Chimney V,4 Saturday 16thFWA
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- Natahn & I at top of Oql Chimney
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- Lucy enjoying the clour show on the way back out
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- Michael steep above me on Mr Bogeyman
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- The Bogeyman VI,7 First ascent 17th.
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- Mr Charlie VI,7. First ascent. Sunday 17th
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- Stunning views from Foxes Rake III
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- Julian running it out on Foxes Rake on Monday 18th
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- Ascending Sgumain Stone Shoot @ dawn Tuesday 19th
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- Sgumain cave shelter
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- Start of “The Sheriff’s Ransom” V,6. New route on Alasdair
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- Sgurr Dearg Wed 20th
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- In Pinn
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- Pitch 2 of In Pinn
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- Stunning coloured mists
Forcan magic. 10th January 2016
Had great fun introducing my good mate Innes to the joys of winter climbing yesterday and the weather gods treated us to a classic. The forecast had been for heavy rain/snow for most of the day but nothing came of it at all.
Now Innes built a lot of the Black Cuillin footpaths and has explored many of the peaks and ridges in that time. Instead he fancied Glen Shiel, having driven through it so often but never left the road.
A big part of the joy of the day was listening to the commentary- Innes was being blown away by every aspect of our environment. “It’s so 3-dimensional” was a comment really early on as the clever stalkers path weaved upward eventually revealing the hidden maze of glens beyond.
We left plans open but I reasoned that, if we were going to carry the crampons, rope etc we should aim for a route where they might actually be needed so the Forcan Ridge it was. I’ve done it many times but it never disappoints with progress often complex and time-consuming.
Top pupil donned the harness although I sensed an element of doubt about any need for it as I coiled the rope in preparation. Heading to the foot of the first slab Innes was hard on my heels and the beast was momentarily unleashed only to watch me fail miserably getting up the opening groove. A rising zig-zag left us no choice but to balance across the groove 40ft above the ground and the need for rope became obvious. The lad grew very fond of that wee bit of string over the following couple of hours!
What a position
The aesthetics were great but the pics don’t show the brutal hard work. Every inch was hard fought for but, as Innes pointed out, it kept the mind off the drop.
After an hour or so in the mist, things began to get distinctly brighter until we were suddenly in bright sunlight and the mists dropped off the ridge running away in front of us towards the Saddle.
Top of Sgurr a Forcan with The Saddle appearing out to the north.
It was already close to 2pm when we reached the summit of Sgurr a’ Forcan so an easy decision to head down immediately beyond. Now the bumslide descent from the Saddle is such fun it justifies the effort almost every time in winter but I hadn’t told Innes because I hadn’t been sure about the short-cut we were about to take. A foot of powder is a great cushion though and the run-out was clear so I armed the lad with an ice -axe, gave him a brief lesson then set him free while I packed the rope.
He was off like a shot and I was greeted by a cheshire cat-like grin 400 feet lower as Innes admitted the descent had been particularly troubling him whenever he made the mistake of thinking about it! With the tension released the eulogising really began in earnest; pretty sure I’ve another good keen climbing partner well broken in.
Looking back at where we’d been.
The Five Sisters of Kintail beautifully highlighted in the evening light
Thanks for inspiration for a great day out Innes!
Beautiful Bla Bheinn. Friday 8th January
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- Strathaird Peninsula
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- View from South Top
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- Raven guarding Rum
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- Main Ridge
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- South Top from main summit
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- Mists cling to the Rum Cuillin
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- North to Storr
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- Beinn na Caillich & Applecross
Stunning light and colours on a quick trip up Bla Bheinn last Friday afternoon.
