Deep Winter Play 5th December
Winter continues with avengence here; after working with us this summer Scott Kirkhope enthusiastically travelled up from Fort Bill for his first taste of the Cuillin in winter on Wednesday. We were joined by my long term winter partner Icky and shared the BMC hut with Annie, Tom & Gemma.
Yellow moonlight tinted the snow as we set off up Coire an Eich but the joy was rudely interupted by a fierce blizzard that lasted well over an hour.It finally passed through just as we reached the summit of Sgurr na Banachdaich.
The sun battled through the spindrift creating wonderful light effects.
I had had ambitions on a new climb in Coruisk but so much fresh snow was going to make things very hard & remove any pleasure. It was a day to enjoy the amazing light & views so we headed off southward with the sun warming us nicely.
Flanks were covered in powder snow on top of an icy crust; luckily our boots broke through this crust and kept us feeling safe without crampons or ropes.The crest was the best choice with no drifts and a good cushion filling in the gaps and we made good speed to bealach na Banachdaich. The others appeared on the West Ridge of Dearg ahead of us so it was an easy choice to head up and meet up.
Next on the wonders trip was a pair of Sea eagles playing in the thermals above us.
After taking in the views at the Pinn all 6 of us indulged in one long bum-slide right from the top and down to Coire Lagan with only short sections of easy walking.
The mornings blizzard had produced a carpet of soft snow to cushion the footpath right back to the hut in the evening light and the compulsory glorious vista out across the Minch to Rum & Canna.
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Skye Winter Skills Day, December 1st
11 of us enjoyed superb conditions and wonderful weather on an ascent of Sgurr a’ Bhasteir on Saturday the 1st. Amongst the group was a mix of summer hill walkers, climbers and mountaineers from Skye. Many thanks to everyone who turned up to make it such a huge success.
We all climbed the left hand (NE) ridge of the beautiful pyramidal Sgurr a’ Bhasteir on the right.
I worried that Friday’s heavy rain might not stop but the skies cleared, temperatures dropped and everyone survived the icy roads to meet at Sligachan at 8am. The peaks were plastered with snow with descriptions varying from “Himalayan” to “iced cakes”.
The footpath was treacherously coated in black ice and gave everyone a full body work out just to stay upright. It was quite a relief to finally don the crampons at the steepening by the Basteir Gorge. Those wearing them for the first time were amazed at how positive they suddenly felt.
Underfoot conditions improved hugely once we reached the snow-line. Progress was tempered by a photography-fest as glorious vistas opened up all around us and a golden eagle even gave us a fly-by. After lunch Donald and Martin opted to head down to give themselves plenty of time to negotiate the icy slabs. The eagle again soared above us as we made very good speed to reach the summit and even more spectacular scenery.
Summit of Sgurr a’ Bhasteir 898m
At Bealach na Lice crampons were removed to allow some practice at ice-axe arrest on a quick descent back into Coir’ a’ Bhasteir. We also briefly looked at how to treat delicate Cuillin ice before having to put crampons back on for the painful return over the icy slabs. We all managed this and most of the return journey before darkness finally engulfed us and the head-torches came into their own.
Everyone had a great time and one suggestion is to set-up a local facebook group for anyone keen to get out.
Free Winter Skills this Saturday 1st December
Saturday December 1st
Sligachan, 8-30 am. Free Winter Skills day. Suitable for those with summer walking experience with an interest in the Cuillin in winter. Also anyone with winter experience keen to meet other locals. Bring normal hill-walking kit. Some crampons and axes available. Contact Mike Lates on 01471 822 116 or e-mail mike@skyeguides.co.uk
With snow on the ground and a cold forecast through to the end of the week this is a rare opportunity to plan a good day out.
The day is aimed at Skye and Lochalsh based folk with experience of exploring the Cuillin in summer. We will head into Coir’ a’ Bhasteir or up Sgurr a’ Bhasteir and mix new skills with walking to keep warm!
Normal hill-walking kit with good quality boots crucial. Gaitors & spare gloves too. Please call with questions and if you need to borrow crampons and ice axe; ideally we’ll try to fit these beforehand. Daylight is very short so we need to set off promptly and head torches are important.
This is a social as much as anything so please don’t feel intimidated. As the wording says above please do come along if you already know what you’re doing and just fancy meeting up & helping out. Please drop me a line if you are keen but no commitment needed.
The Saddle by the Forcan Ridge 26 November 2012
Cloud & rain hugged the coasts today so we headed just over the bridge to Glen Shiel; it may even be quicker than the drive to Glen Brittle for me. The difference in weather was amazing with heavy frost beautiful blue skies and very VERY snowy tops!
The snow did make for hard work but meant we were best to stick to the narrow crest.
We flushed up a couple of Golden eagles just as we started and I was made up to find their enormous talon prints part way up Sgurr na Forcan.
The pictures hopefully tell the tale of a great day out with Chris-
A Blaven Beaut. 5th November
Rick, Jez and Yogi are enjoying a break at the delux Kinloch Lodge Hotel and restaurant, home to Skye’s only Michelin star.
Our climb up and over Blaven yesterday also deserved a Michelin star, justifiably claimed by many as the best viewpoint in Scotland.
The snow was deep above 500m; no need for crampons but very glad that we all took turns at breaking trail.
On top the mists came and went before clearing completely as we headed off to the south summit with snow formations made for a stunning foreground as we all burnt film.
Snow-laden Coire Lagan and rare Avalanche. 4 November
It had snowed very heavily last night leaving Coire Lagan even whiter than yesterday.
On the approach to climb Deliverance Guy & I returned to the Great Stone Shoot. Initially I thought piles of snow debris was from our descent last night but it soon became apparent that a pretty broad & big avalanche had happened in the early hours.
Just at the foot of CD Buttress that we climbed yesterday we came across the “crown”, the shear point. Perhaps our wanderings had had something to do with triggering it. Two very obvious individual 8″ layers are left above the shear line suggesting at least 3 seperate and poorly bound layers.
Above this point we were back to deep wading.
Alpine training feedback.
Many thanks to John Rushton and the White Hart mountaineers for some great action pictures from their trip to the Valais Alps this summer.
Mischabel Group behind. the Nadelhorn is the 2nd major peak from the right.
Back in January we ran an Alpine training course for John’s team of 6- see pictures of this in the January Blog
It is always great to hear follow-up from clients particularly when the skills learnt have been put to full use-
“Hello Mike
Our group from Essex was at yours for mountain training in January. We went to the Alps in Mid July and the training you gave us was perfect for it. We first went up Weismiess split into two groups of 3. We all made it up, the first up that day, and had no trouble although there were a lot of crevasses.
Among the crevasses & seracs on the NW face of the Weissmies.
We then went up The Nadelhorn. Steve, Tom, Marco and I went for it and the ridge training with the mixed snow and ice was perfect. We used all the training you gave us and were glad of it.
Full Scottish conditions on the Nadelhorn!
I’m now looking forward to some more excellent craic in January with the team that trains most intensely in the White Hart; happy days-
We would like four days training in January to take it a bit further and tackle some grade III routes. John Rushton
Crampon Work on Blaven. 16th February
Tim’s team’s winter skills course looked like it was heading for a wash-out this week but skills learnt from Matt on Tuesday were applied well in Great Gully on Blaven today.
Dodge the hole!
Athough the top 6 inches of the snowpack has suffered in the heavy thaw the very old snow below remains very hard. As as result we had over 500ft of good snowstomping in crampons with only a couple of short mixed sections.
Tim checking out the rock routes on the buttress above
The rewards on the summit were the same old mix of golden light effects that I can never tire of.
Forcan Ridge. Monday 13th
We all headed over to the mainland in search of dry weather on Monday. With warm rain still falling a team ascent of the Forcan Ridge was the decision.
Kitted up & ready to go
The route was in entertaining form with a mix of icy steps, soft snow & wet rock and the rope very welcome. A classic winter scramble and a worthy neighbour to the Cuillin my favourite part is always the mega bumslide from the summit.
Reaching the rock step on the Forcan Ridge before the final snowy section
Helping Out. Sunday 12th Feb.
Emma, Carly & Jill were back for a 2nd visit this winter, with friend Polly standing in for Chloe (doing something boring like the Annapurna trek!).
Spectacular backdrop to the climb.
They climbed the long N.E. ridge of Sgurr a Bhasteir with Matt and put crampons on fairly early to deal with the frequent snow patches.
Polly in crampons for the 1st time
As the team headed in towards Bealach na Lice a whistle was heard coming from Fionn Choire
Matt pointing ou the views just before the whistle was heard.
The main casualty had fallen at least 200ft, sustained a broken leg and a head injury with the partner also suffering from cuts in a tumble. Matt took control of the situation but, as with any serious incident, the rescue took a long time to happen.
Stornaway Coastguard chopper arrives
The Buckley team helped out & kept themselves warm until the helicopter had finished eventually needing headtorches for the final hour of descent.
Torchlit finish
Not a situation that anyone ever wants but, equally, I’m sure we would all appreciate the level of help given if we’re ever unfortunate enough to have an accident ourselves.
Classic round; Clach Glas Blabheinn
Cuillin regular Chris was on the same wavelength as me for what to do on a fine day with only limited winter climbing options.
Blabheinn reflection
We shot around the complete horseshoe (Sgurr nan Eag to South top of Blaven)
Good backdrop
Clach Glas was snow free and ther were only tiny patches until the final chimney. We avoided this by a variation on I’ve used before out to the west (right).
A thin covering of snow on the tops of Blaven completed the real alpine feel.
Heading towards the South Top with Hebrides in the background.
British Rail Snow; what’s going to happen? 27th January
We’ve avoided the dreaded deep powder so far this season but yesterdays dump means hard work until some consolidation happens. Our battle weary legs couldn’t face trawling so Matt with Will and myself with Ian all opted for Sgurr an Fheadain. A 40 minute approach and thinly covered ridge made great sense.
The mighty Sgurr an Fheadain, all 688m of it!
We found great conditions low down with the slabs coated in solid ice and snow giving great foot placements all the way.
Ian starting to enjoy this mixed terrain
Eventually we reached the point where only powder lay but this just added a bit of spice to the wonderful summer scrambling
Will looking at home on the narrow arete
and Ian not looking down.
Skye-lining it.
The thin clouds rolled in & out all day and Ian finally got the sun/snow combo he deserved.
Ian needed an early finish so we left Will & Matt to head off into the sunshine for the views.
Matt caught lying down on the job; Bidean behind.
The strange meteorological conditions for the week ahead make predictions very difficult. At the moment there is tooo much powder for my liking. A brief thaw is possible (and needed) on Sunday. If that happens we’ll be in clover for the folowing week which suggests that the cold air will dominate
1-0 to 2/3 Gully 26th January
After 2 tropical days winter returned in style today. Red sky in the morning shepherd’s warning still didn’t prepare me for hours of continuous fresh snow.
Red Skies over the Beinn Dearg’s this morning.
We went to check out the gully between 2nd and 3rd pinnnacles as a start to Pinnacle Ridge that is recorded as Grade II or I if banked out. What we found was considerably harder and in a very unfriendly mood.
Pinnacle Ridge; they are numbered 1-5 from left to right, with Gillean(5) in the cloud.
The bare steps proved awkward with mushy ice & powder but we did 4 small pitches. The big problem was the continual flow of spindrit from above.
Pitch below the cave; nice!
Finally faced with a choice of a waterall or a powderfall whilst backing up verglassed basalt cave we gave up the battle.
Happy to retreat from the spindrift.
Wintry but wet. Alasdair 24th January
Feeling robbed today as the warm wet weather arrived early. There was superb ice on the routes on Thearlaich but the temperature was rising fast and rain steady. We opted to dump the gear & run to the top of Alasdair. By the time we got back all of the rime had gone and the good ice of an hour before had turned to slush.
Ian taking shelter on the summit.
Matt took John’s party up NW Ridge of Bruach na Frithe where the alpine training continued despite the weather’s best attempts to send them packing; breed them ‘ard in Essex!
Beautiful day on Blaven. 23rd January
The alpine training continued today in great conditions. Overnight snow lay down to 400m and early showers cleared by 10am.
Kitting up under the huge boulder in Coire Uiganish
John heads up toward our objective Great Gully, grade I.
We soon found ourselves floundering in graupel, a kind of hail that had rolled downhill into deep drifts. When we stopped to put crampons on it stuck to everything.
Flask with a hail stone coating!
Technically graupel is a type of precipitation that forms when supercooled droplets of water are collected and freeze on a falling snowflake. It has the consistency of small polystyrene balls and forms a particularly unstable layer that can easily cause avalanches. The quantities involved were fortunately not enough to worry me excessively and we decided to continue as 3 seperate ropes.
Getting close to the top
The scenery on the walls of the gully was as spectacular as ever and very soon we broke the crest.
John’s team traversing the narrow snow arete at the top; very alpine!
South End of the Main Ridge clear in the background behind Spud
Summit smiles
Descending with glorious golden light coming in from the Minch behind
Fine finish; Blabheinn 20 January
Tim, Paul & I enjoyed a beautifully quiet (windless) and snowy ascent of Blaven today.
Blabheinn at dawn today
Paul pointing out the route to me.
Heading up the “Normal Route” high above the east face
Admiring the drop
Re-ascent to the South Top
It was the last day of a very successful course that started with Gillean on Monday, Sgurr Dearg on Tuesday, Sgurr nan Fheadain on Wednesday and a walk up to the Storr on Thursday.
Tim’s shots and comments on his facebook page give a good flavour of the week and he has kindly opened them up for anyone here to view. Thanks Tim.
Day 1:
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.309819542395132.70986.100001012669249&type=3&l=6e39b84e97
Day 2:
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.310482905662129.71098.100001012669249&type=3&l=978d679b51
Day 3:
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.311158158927937.71191.100001012669249&type=3&l=7adc16064a
Day 4:
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.311722612204825.71277.100001012669249&type=1&l=6c8157c9ad
Day 5:
Full-on winter is back. January 16th
The Black Cuillin tops have been shrouded in mist for 3 days with mostly black rocks and just a few old patches of snow showing below. I opted for the Tourist Route on Gillean today expecting to be on dry rock to the summit so it was quite a surprise to find full-on winter above 700m.
The old snow was rock hard and gave perfect crampon & axe practice for Tim & Paul for the final 25 minute rise to the South-east Ridge.
Practicing axe & crampon work
Great snow stomping
On the crest we found a mix of verglass, hoar, old snows and really good thin “instant neve”. The bitter wind was gusting pretty fiercely from very low down but fortunately was no worse on the crest; the harshest bit was a face full of hoar crystals if I tried to look back to see how the guys climbing below were doing.
Ow that hurts!
The crux corners just before the narrow finale were the only place we did a 20m pitch.
Tim on the crux corners
I’ve given this route a winter grade of II in the guidebook but today did make me wonder how far off III it might be, particularly for anyone unfamiliar with the easiest line.
On a descending section of the final narrows
The top of Gillean is almost always a windless haven and so it proved again today. My theory is that the winds bounce off the steep walls encircling it. So we enjoyed a peaceful lunch celebration on top before opting to retrace our tracks rather than heading down the West ridge.
Tim makes it to Gillean, a 10-year ambition come true.
We abseiled from the same sling I’d left in December which was a first for Tim and first time since school-days for Paul; they coped admirably despite being unable to hear much above the wind.
Paul reaching the foot of the abseil
All in all another cracking day in the office.
Broad Gully. January 6th
Chris was back again after his first taste of the Cuillin in November, this time for an introduction to the white stuff. Despite the rain being heavier than the Beeb predicted we had a good day on Sgurr a’ Bhasteir.
Enjoying the dry approach
We were helped by a dry start and then a fine set of tracks left yesterday by, at a guess, Sgurr a’ Bhasteir officianado Mr Beads. These led us not only to our objective but right up into it and a handy dry cave in which to kit up.
Our surprise shelter
Broad Gully is about 600ft long and gives a great way to approach the NE Ridge of Sgurr a Bhasteir and holds snow for most of the winter. There are some great icy alternatives on either side that form readily, all in the lower grades and all put up by Beads with a variety of partners.
Looking up…..
…and looking down
On hitting the ridge the weather had deteriated to a tropical rain storm so it was time for a sharp exit with some ice axe breaking instruction on a perfect slope that dropped us straight down to the lochain in Coire a’ Bhasteir.
Far too much fun being had in this serious winter mountaineering game!
Southern Comfort (on ice) IV,5 18th December
The fine spell is breaking down at last so I’m very glad to have managed another long standing project yesterday.
Dawn reflections in Coire Lagan
The best ice appears to have all formed on south facing slopes so we headed into Coire Lagan where I knew of a few possibilities. Things were thinner than I expected but then a glimpse of grey ice appeared high above South Buttress and reminded me of a line I’d seen back in 1999. We carried on far enough to confirm that the bounding gully did indeed hold continuous ice before heading up.
The first 2 main pitches; we approached slightly from the right. The crux was at top of the xmas-tree shaped piece of ice half-way up what is visible.
1st Main ice pitch
There aren’t any photos of the crux steep step because I was focussed a bit too much on not falling off. Things relaxed a bit more above with a superb hidden pitch appearing 50m above.
The hidden bonus pitch.
We even had a screw belay above here.
After 5 long pitches we reached the fine narrow ridge that links up to the summit of Sgurr Dearg still 250m above us. This slowed us & entertained us considerably but finally we topped out just 100m from the In Pinn.
Views appear for the top of our new route.
Matthew Au Cheval on the finishing ridge
Looking out to the Ruadh.
Pinn rimed up.
I’ve opted for Southern Comfort as a name to honour the unusual conditions where south faces are offering better climbing than the norht faces.
White Lies, new line in ice paradise, 15th December
Firstly I should let anyone interested in doing a Winter Traverse “the holy grail of Scottish Winter routes” know that it is pretty damn good condition and the forecast ahead is good.
Looking at the back of Am Basteir today
I’m not offering but just letting folk know. I’ve got lots of projects to go for in conditions like these and today was a good start-
I followed my own advice from Monday’s Blog and went to climb the amazing looking ice on the south face of Gillean today. We did a new route that takes a line of ice right of the existing route and have called it White Lies; grade IV,5. It was 280m long so the descent was largely done in the dark.
My Skye mates Beads & Ben were great cpompany; we all shared the task of breaking trail, were all blown away with the views & all of us got plenty of time on the sharp end.
It’s great when a plan comes together!
Coir’ a’ Bhasteir at its best
Basteir Tooth looking awesome.
Ben studying possibilities; we took the main line of ice visible here but…
….this is the ice arena that greeted us when we could see the whole south face of Gillean
Ben belays Beads on pitch one; our line lies up right. The main line is White Dreams, 275 m IV,5 (2000)
Beads on the steep top step high on pitch one.
Ben’s Corner, pitch 3. This was a lot steeper than it looked with the ice fairly rubbish. Beads & I had to climb the vertical thicker ice to Ben’s left because of a big hole that appeared.
A happy Ben as Beads leads pitch 4; first time placements all the way.
Final pitch looking down the steep finish
Ben on the finishing swings
Psych!
Good to be back & great conditions 12 December 2011
A fortnight of freeze thaw conditions, with a few mental storms thrown in, has left some great climbing. Firstly a teaser- The Smear, V, which has porbably not had a second ascent since 1979, has a good start going as the pic below shows.
The Smear (V, 1979) lies below the 2nd Top of Mhadaidh.
I climbed directly up the broad West Face of Bruach na Frithe from Tairnilear which gave over 2000ft on snow.
I took a grade II line fairly directly to the summit of Bruach na Frithe on the left.
The face appears fairly featureless from below but the huge scale soon threw up route choices and plenty to concentrate the brain.
A crunchy start then short mixed band soon became well consolidated snow with accumulations of powder that never became more than a few inches in depth (so no avalanche worries). In the top 600ft (200m) I was able to take my pick of really beautiful solid steps of ice.
With calves burning it was good to finally top out a few minutes from the summit. There was a good narrow line of well consolidated neve running pretty much continuously with a complete covering of thinner snow filling in the gaps.
The wind sculpted ridge of neve.
Looking southwards these conditions appeared to be pretty uniform.
Good covering across the tops of Bidean Druim nan Ramh, 2700ft
Route possibilities were everywhere but the best looking option was White Dreams. This huge route takes a direct line up the south face of Sgurr nan Gillean from Lota Corrie and hasn’t received a second ascent.
The ice on White Dreams (IV) can clearly be seen splitting the South Face.
I carried on past Bruach na Frithe to Bealach na Lice for a close look at the north face of Am Basteir and the Bhasteir faces of Pinnacle Ridge. Although not as snowy as I’ve often seen it I’d guess the quality of ice & neve will make almost any route on these faces a good option just now. There’s a couple of better known exceptions but they could be good after todays storms.
HDQ (VIII) looking black on Am Bastier
Bhasteir faces of 4th & 5th Pinnacles; Gingini Chimney is currently incomplete but close- takes the incomplete line low on 5th Pinnacle with Forked Chimney (IV) the dark gash to its left.
The descent down Fionn Choire was one of the easiest under foot I’ve ever had and the next strorm was just building nicely as I got back.
Everything is going to look a lot whiter when things calm down on Thursday. There’ll probably be deep drifts on lee slopes to watch out for but plenty to go for. White Dreams should be getting well scoured and my choice of approach is likely to be the NE Ridge of Sgurr a Bhasteir and descending from Bealach na Lice.
If you haven’t got your guidebook yet I’ve got a stock you can collect as you arrive or get sent out to you. Check the website
Easy-View.com consolation
My trip down south was great fun until travelling back on Friday; I’d made the mistake of feeling smug at missing Thursday’s storm but we were turned back from Inverness late Friday night by snow. The delights of the extra time in Gatwick were rewarded next morning by the best arial views of Scotland I’ve ever had the privelidge to see. Here’s a selection as we approached Lochaber from the south before turning east along the Great Glen-
Clouds clear to reveal the Highlands in full winter garb.
Ben Nevis is the highest peak on the left of shot with Aonach Mor the long sunlit crest stretching rightward.
Looking east to west along the dawn-lit tops from Beinn na Lap past the Grey Corries, Aonachs, Carn Mor Dearg to Ben Nevis.
Mountaineering magic-way more fun than xmas shopping!
Matts Report
I was out on the hill with Beads again today. We had some great weather and managed to climb a new route on the North face of Sgurr a Bhasteir-250 metres of grade II climbing. It made a lovely approach to the North-East ridge of Sgurr a Bhasteir which gave us another 350 metres of good ridge climbing. It was a great day out with some phenomenal views to the Outer Hebrides and the mainland, both of which were full of snow covered hills as far as the eye could see.
Dawn light on the Northern end of Skye
Beads leading on the new route
Glamaig and the mainland
The North-East ridge of Sgurr a Bhasteir (grade I)
The Third Pinnacle, Knights Peak and Sgurr nan Gillean
Heading towards the main ridge
Snowy Skye
Matts Report
I was out with Beads yesterday on Meall Odhar (satellite peak of Sgurr a Bhasteir) we found a nice bit of easy climbing on the side of the hill and enjoyed some magnificent views of mountains, sea and snow! It started snowing at sea level last night and there is a good covering now. The hills themselves will be pretty swamped with powder and there is the beginnings of some good ice. I have taken a few photos of the view from my house-apologies for the quality but my mobile phone has my only working camera just now.
View from Sconser towards Raasay
Glamaig from Sconser
Excellent Winter Traverse Video
Winter bivvy
Many thanks to Simon Richardson and his fantastic winter climbing site Scottish Winter. com for bringing a well composed 18 minute Cuillin video to my attention. You can read Simon’s comments and fim-maker Iain Young’s comments about the Traverse here or click direct on the video The Cuillin Ridge- A Winter’s Traverse
Bring it on!
Ben Nevis News
Dispatch received from Mike who is working out of the CIC Hut on Ben Nevis. The warm conditions have left gaps in some of the classic ice routes and Point 5 gully sounds as though it is thin. The skies have started to clear so hopefully that will stay the same overnight for a good frost and lead to better conditions over the coming days. Mike was on Ledge route with Frank today.
Frank with Tower Ridge, Observatory Buttress and NE Buttress in the background.
Winter Skills in Fionn Coire
Matts Report
I was out with Tim and Nina today introducing them to basic winter skills in preparation for their attempt on Mt. Blanc later this year. We had an entertaining time walking into the wind and rain for a while but it was quite sheltered from the wind high up in Fionn Coire. We found a good variety of firm and soft snow so that we could practice moving around all types of terrain on the way up and down the coire. The snow-melt was increasing as we came off the hill today and I expect the hills will be looking quite bare in a day or two. There will be plenty of patches of snow along the ridge for quite a while yet though.
Going up the hill….
And down again!
Full Skye Winter Experience on Thearlaich; 14th March
After a week of heavy snowfall and strong winds it was time for Matt and me to find out what had been given to us by the gods of winter climbing. Deep drifts were a feature but we stuck to our guns and aimed for the first winter ascent of Gully E on Sgurr Thearlaich near the top of the Great Stone Shoot. This is thought to be the line taken by Charles Pilkington’s party on the first ascent in 1887.
A Dachstein Mitt day
Matt with the In Pinn behind.
On finally reaching the climb the weather gods decided that another hour or so of blizzarding would give us more of a challenge. While I froze slowly Matt excavated good protection and dived out of the spindift avalanches to belay on the left edge. I continued by the buttress and avoided returning to the gully for as long as possible but was finally forced back in. Swimming up steep powder snow for the next 20m was more like climbing on Ben Nevis than the usual Cuillin experience but I finally reached the crest of the Ridge as the sun came out once more. Overall the route we followed was probably grade III,4.
The blizzard kicks in as Matt reaches the crux.
And now enjoying his belay jacket to the full!
Deep powder at the top of Gully E
Mike rigging the abseil with the sun coming back onto Loch Brittle way below
We didn’t follow in Pilkington’s steps to the summit, opting instead for a long abseil back to the Stone Shoot and our real reward- a thousand foot bumslide back to the corrie below where hot afternoon sun reflected off the snow and the vistas out to the Hebrides were of the usual astounding high quality.
From L-R Sgurr Mhicchoinnich, Thearlaich and moon above Sgurr Alasdair. Our bumslide tracks can be seen in the Stone Shoot.
Sublime lighting over Loch Lagan looking out to the Outer Hebrides
Snow Fun on Ghreadaidh!
Matt’s Report, Thurs 3 March
I was out with Andy today, climbing the Eag Dubh (Black Notch) on Sgurr a Ghreadaidh. The warmer weather has made the snow contract in the gullies, leaving ridge like features to climb up. As the snow is up to ten feet deep in places it makes the snow ridges feel quite exposed, which is an unusual feeling when you are in the depths of a Skye gully! The ridge is a good mixture of ice, snow and rock at the moment, giving a very alpine feel to the crest. There is still a fantastic depth of snow in An Dorus, giving a simple step down into the gap instead of the usual steep scramble.
Approaching the Eag Dubh
Andy adopting unorthodox gully climbing tactics
And more conventional tactics higher up
Alpine conditions again; NW Face of Ghreadaidh. Monday 28 Feb
Our line on Diagonal Gully, 1200 feet, Grade II, marked in red;
The doglegs low down were to avoid big bergshrunds (holes!) that have formed with the thaws since the heavy snow fell in November. Mike
