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Day 2. Sat 19th Jan


Recovering from a heavy night on the Fondue (supplied by Romain) teams headed out all over the Glen Brittle corries.


Steve Perry & Antoni went out on Casteil a Garbh Choire and did a good mixed line-

Caisteal a’ Garbh Corrie; South End (Winter) IV,5**
30m. Follow the distictive crack until it ends on a stance. Finish up the short steep wall on your left.
Steve Perry and Antoni Anderson.
Dave & Nathan enjoyed Gully C on Thearlaich- “bit like Lockwoods chimney”.
James Sutton & Ben Wear, the Skye boys, did a superb climb up Dyke Gully & Buttress @ V,6 “best route I’ve done on Skye said James.
Iain & Andy climbed a new route they called Perspex Groove (IV?), a rising diagonal low on Window Buttress.
Paul & Brendan ventured into Coir’ a’ Ghrunnda, were thwarted by the impressive North Crag Gully falls but enjoyed stunning vistas from Dubh na Da Bheinn.
Spike & Icky rediscovered the great ice formations on Banachdaich at the head of the south branch of Coir’ a’ Ghreadaidh.
Ann-Marie, Kim, Nicola & I chose the Spur of Sgurr an Fheadain which had been transformed from it’s normal wonderful rock scramble to a fantastic snowy crest with perfect hard snow from bottom to top; 650m II.
Below us the Skye teams of Beads, Murdo & Norman, Matt & Lisa were climbing (as 2 ropes with different variations) a new route with an (as ever) inspiring name-
Hubble, Bubble, Toil & Trouble
III 3 500m .follow right edge of Waterpipe (geddit?) Gully over easy rock and turf up to a rock barrier climbed by an obvious left slanting groove, then an awkward step into a gully leading to the more commiting top section, with a choice of chimneys,small walls leading to the summit ridge of Sgurr an Fheadain.
Over on Blabheinn, and not part of the meet, Iain Small and Simon Richardson pulled off an audacious ascent of Jib, a summer E1 giving it a grade of VIII,8. Simon’s excellent site Scottish Winter has his report.

Image gallery below-


Coire Lagan Footpath Maintainance this Saturday


Just spotted a notice in the WHFP announcing that the Highland Ranger service is carrying out maintainance on the Coire Lagan path on Saturday (19th). Please do  call Jenny on 01471 820 527 if interested in volunteering (I think so she can bring enough shovels etc.)

Forecast is looking pretty good so well worth making the effort.

Crowded Cuillin Carparks :) 11 December


As we headed down to the Glen frosted vehicles already parked at Sligachan and the beach were an indication that the fine conditions has attracted suitors for the Traverse.

Icky & I were lucky enough to have completed a Traverse back in 2001 and, instead, fancied trying some of the ice we had spied in Coire Lagan last week. We invited Neil from Portree to join us for his first play with 2 technical ice axes.

Sadly the sun and thaw over last weekend had stripped this south-facing buttress right back to bare rock. Instead the North-west Ramp of Sgurr Sgumain looked a good option once more.

We put on the crampons from the lochan and headed up beautiful solid neve, mixing it with a few steps of ice for Neil to get used to some steeper manouvres. Normally I head out left to the foot of the ramp but today a direct approach pitch looked possible.

Heathcote’s Gully

Heathcotes Gully lies directly above Neil’s head; the normal start to NW ramp lies out left.

Heathcote’s Gully is an 80m Moderate route that acts as an outflow for all the water pouring off this side of Sgumain that gains the NW Ramp route at half height. It has always looked unattractive in the past; in 1892 Heathcote described it as “steep with scanty footholds”. Today it was largely banked out with a couple of short ice steps. I found lovely solid placements in the first step but needed some clever footwork to reach the good ice in the second. I needn’t have bothered racking all the gear because the compact waterworn walls yeilded not a sausage. The belay above was little better; a well-equalised mix of warthog, bulldog, axes & 2 very shallow blades.

Fortunately the stance was good and Neil cruised up the steep sections with Icky close behind. I’m sure this feature has been climbed in winter before, probably unnoticed under a good bank-out, but will add a grade of II with a note about no rock gear to the SMC records.

NW Ramp

Having climbed this route a few more times since the guidebook went to print I would suggest that grade I is a bit of a sandbag. The steepening was well banked out for Neil and I to move together but slabs above involve an unprotectable rising traverse, required delicacy and the position is daunting. Grade II is far more suitable.

We topped out into a blaze of sunshine and views out to the Hebrides for which I’ve run out of superlatives.

Sgurr Sgumain (947m)

We stomped easliy to the top of Sgurr Sgumain and watched a team of 4 abseil into the TD Gap nearing the end of their Traverse.

As we continued towards Alasdair the narrow crest and steep flanks ate into time and darkness wasn’t far away so we decided to make one long abseil to the safety of snow slopes below. Another first for Neil this and, as before, he coped admirably.

Traverse successes

On the long walk out of Ghrunnda we were passed by the Traverse team of Guy Steven, Donald King, Kenny Grant & Duncan still romping along despite having been on their feet since half past one in the morning!

Pinn to Cioch link. 11th May


Robbie only had the Pinn left to complete his Cuillin munros but quite fancied climbing the Cioch. From the top of the Pinn it was obvious that the good covering of snow ruled out traversing the peaks of Coire Lagan so instead we just crossed corrie. A first for me bagging these 2 classics in this way and the Lochan Traverse Route was pretty superb too.

Rime on the Pinn again focussed the attention

Lochan Traverse

Me posing on the Ciochin the afternoon sunshine

The best bits!


Matts Report

I was out with Vipan and Helen for 3 days this week. They brought sunshine and dry rock so we chose to do the fun bits of the Cuillin. Day 1 was the round of Coire Lagan, day 2 we climbed sgurr nan Fheadain, Druim nan Ramh and An Caisteal and then finished with a romp up the Dubh Ridge. A great few days on some of the best bits of the best mountains in the UK!

Approaching Sgurr Alasdair

Collies Ledge

Starting up Sgurr Nan Fheadain

Higher up the Spur

Abseiling on Druim nan Ramh

More airy scrambling!

The Dubh Slabs

More slab action!

Emotional rollercoaster. 8/9th May.


The forecast is as changeable as ever and I opted for starting wet on Tuesday & the dry forecast for Wednesday to do the bulk of the Traverse. Kim & I stashed our kit in a misty & damp Coir’ a’ Ghrunnda before heading out of to Gars bheinn at the south end of the Ridge. We emerged from the gloom just east of Sgurr nan Eag and were treated to spectacular views & effects.

Heading towards Gars bheinn

Above the clouds

Brokn Spectre; a good omen

We returned to the gloom of Coir’ a’ Ghrunnda collected water then settled down for food, wine & whisky before a comfy night.

At 6 o’clock yesterrday morning we woke to find the ground covered in snow & a blizzard howling around us; patience was needed but by 9am we were making exit plan.

Kim braves the blizzard for a pee

The first hope came with a small window showing bright sunshine below so we adopted a more optimistic atttitude and set off at 10. Climbing up the south-west flank of Alasdair wasn’t too bad but we were greeted by the full wintry blast on the summit. I’ve long talked about avoiding the hair-raising roof-top of Thearlaich by descending the Great Stone Shoot but this was the first time I’ve carried out the plan.

Snow-filled Shoot!

Quickly re-ascending “Bomb Alley” to Bealach Mhicchoinnich we found Collie’s Ledge out of the wind & snow free. There was still a strong prospect we’d have to face an extra (very cold) night out with little food to pull it off but a sense of optimism started creeping in.

Tony saw we were motoring so kindly let us through on the Pinn and we reached An Dorus, which I consider the half-way point along the Ridge, before 3pm.

Steep 2nd top of Mhadaidh

The 2nd half became a balance of speed, stamina & nutrition; we timed out for a welcome brew at An Caisteal.

One of the exciting steps on An Caisteal

We finally summited on Gillean at 7pm. Kim refused to celebrate until he’d climbed back down the West Ridge but then all thoughts were set on beer & food.

Congratulations Kim!

The walk-out in the evening light was sublime-

Macleaod’s Maidens & South Uist

Red Red Cuillin glowing with success

Bank Holiday Busy. Pinn 5th May


We won on the gamble against the snow and then timed things just right to avoid getting held up by anyone on the Pinn today. Some parties had waited for up to 2 hours apparently.

Margaret ecstatic with achieving her In Pinn ambition and safely landing back on solid ground.

In the afternoon we headed over to Mhic Choinnich with more snow flurries but great views back to where we had come from.

Chris taking it all in on his first visit

Shade-seeking and inversions; 3rd May


The sun was even hotter yesterday so I chose to approach the Pinn by an enclosed gully in the Banachdaich Slabs. This had the added bonus of beautiful cold water for drinking right up to over 800m.

Glad to have reached the shade

A sea of mist lying east of Skye gave some beautiful effects and, as Mark pointed out, it was a wonderful day just to take it all in.

The eastern Black Cuillin, Garbh-bheinn, Clach Glas & Blaven with the Affric peaks snow-clad behind

The hills were nearly empty and we saw just 2 solo climbers going up and then back down the long crest of the In Pinn. This would have created havoc on a busier day but a wonderful peace kept everything calm.

Falcon Scott celebrating a long-held ambition

Mark & Iain take in the views

A classic stacked abseil descent on a classic day

A nippy breeze was quite welcome just as we started our ascent. It didn’t stop us having a dip in the lochan on the way down but was a sure sign of yet another cold front returning; today has been bitter but still dry.

Thanks to Chris Sutcliffe for sending this great shot of the Cuillin above the sea of mist taken from Bealach na Ba above Applecross where he enjoyed the uber-classic Cioch Nose.

Blaven far left and Beinn na Caillich far right

Last minute accommodation deal; 5th-19th May


We’ve just a last minute cancellation for our cottage that frees it up for the next fortnight. Please contact us by phone, 01471 822 116, or e-mail Catriona on if you are interested in booking. Book price was £495 for Saturday to Saturday but we are open to offers for any let of 3 or more consecutive days.

Glas Bheinn cottage is a traditional stone built cottge in the village of Luib just 25 minutes from the Skye bridge. It sleeps 4 people in a double and a twin room.

Pinn perfection, 2 May


Another glorious day treating us all to a good dose of sunburn today. Tom & I climbed Bomb Alley, roped across the last remaining snow on Collie’s Ledge and then tackled An Stac Direct before a leisurely ascent of the Pinn. The contrast with Monday’s wind & ice was unbelievable.

Big fresh bombs in the Alley

Ropes on Collie’s still

Pinn viewed from the top of An Stac Direct

Happy Tom after modestly climbing his last Munro; congratulations.