Update 8 April 2012


Apologies for the lack of blogging recently; technical hitches are to blame but sorted now. It’s been a right mixed bag of weather which is forecast to continue through the week ahead as pulses of cold air compete with atlantic incursions.

Back in the hot week at the end of March a highlight was taking our Ruari up Window Buttress to the In Pinn on his 9th birthday; a fine effort on a beautiful day.

The proverbial Pig in Muck abseiling from the Pinn.

The very rare purple saxifrage was open a lot earlier than I can ever remember too.

Purple saxifrage

Last weekend started with a great traverse of Blaven and Clach Glas done back-to-front to the normal way.

Looking across to the Main Ridge on Monday 2nd April.

This was so that we could accompany Nick’s swollen ankle on the Normal Route up Blaven initially. Exposure & difficulties this way around is considerably greater (or so it feels) so no action photos I’m afraid.

Tim taking in what he had just done (up & down Clach Glas, the Matterhorn of Skye) on his first Cuillin outing; fine effort.

Next day we woke to a full-on wintry scene. Pinnacle Ridge idea was shelved and the Tourist Route and down the West Ridge proved more than enough for the day.

Starting the South-East Ridge of Gillean with Blaven in the background.

I donned crampons for the descent but we left Tim without; it was a close call but a first crampon experience on glazed rocks was just likely to add to difficulties as opposed to easing them!

Looking through the Window at the start of the West Ridge descent.

Tim still looking happy after his first abseil at the foot of the West Ridge

Next day we opted to stay low and climbed Sgurr an Fheadain. The build up of ice in the corrie was amazing; all too thin to climb but illuminating in terms of future potential.

Looking from the summit towards the north face of Sgurr a Mhadaidh. The Smear, V, is the obvious icefall.

Yesterday Jon & i had an early start to get the Pinn whilst dry. We failed on the weather front but climbed the Pinn and Mhicchoinnich on greasy rocks anyway.