Posts Tagged ‘skye ice’

Sunshine and Snow on Bla Bheinn

10/02/11

Matt took Beth up Bla Bheinn today. We had a footwork coaching session at the bottom of South Buttress before ascending Great Gully. There was no scree showing and the snow was reasonably firm despite the sun beating down on us. The top three hundred feet was excellent neve which bodes well for conditions on the higher crags such as the Bhasteir face of Sgurr na Gillean.

Looking down the Great Gully

At the top we popped our heads over to see the entire Cuillin Ridge spread out before us. The air quality was excellent and it felt like you could reach out and touch the mountains; it also made the drops look enormous.

The northern end of the Cuillin Ridge lying the far side of Glen Sligachan

We visited the North top first and then enjoyed the exposed col and the short crest leading to the South top.

Poise and elegance above the precipice! The awkward step is behind Beth.

Climbing the awkward step from the col to the South top. This can look intimidating from below but the difficulties are very short-lived.

Creag Meagaidh Ice

31/01/11

Matt met up with Gillian early on Friday morning at Spean Bridge. We had our sights set on climbing The Pumpkin (300m, Grade V,4). The ten vehicles already at the car-park convinced us to set a fast pace on the walk in and we managed to catch a few teams on the way through.

Gillian near the top of the first pitch.

There was a team just starting on The Pumpkin as we arrived at the bottom but their fast pace persuaded us to set off behind them. The ice was in fantastic condition giving great protection and providing good axe placements from every swing.

Gillian leading the second pitch

After five enjoyable pitches of climbing we topped out at about 2.30pm. We needed a swift bout of navigation to get off the summit plateau and then had an enjoyable walk back through The Window and down the Glen.

Looking back at the Post Face of Creag Meagaidh