Happy Christmas on the In Pinn, 26 April
Matt’s Report
As the result of an inebriated conversation Tom had bought his Dad (Joe) and Uncle (Richard) a Christmas present which was a guided ascent of the In Pinn. Joe and Richard have been Cuillin enthusiasts for a long time, so long in fact that they even remember when the Great Stone Shoot was a good scree run! Despite the guys protests of being unfit we stormed up to the In Pinn in a fast time and hopped straight on to the East Ridge. In contrast to yesterdays cold and windy conditions today could not have been any more perfect. It was a magical day to be out in the Cuillin, dry rock, sunshine, good views and plenty of people out on the tops. There was still traces of ground frost near the top of Sgurr Dearg at 11am so bring a good sleeping bag if you are planning a traverse in the near future!
The In Pinn lurking behind Sgurr Dearg
Tom enjoying the approach to the In Pinn
If you look closely you can see 2 people at the top of the Stone Shoot, gives a good sense of the scale of Sgurr Alasdair and Thearlaich
Nearly at the Summit.
Joe showing good style and excellent socks on his abseil!
Sunshine and Snow on Bla Bheinn
Matt took Beth up Bla Bheinn today. We had a footwork coaching session at the bottom of South Buttress before ascending Great Gully. There was no scree showing and the snow was reasonably firm despite the sun beating down on us. The top three hundred feet was excellent neve which bodes well for conditions on the higher crags such as the Bhasteir face of Sgurr na Gillean.
Looking down the Great Gully
At the top we popped our heads over to see the entire Cuillin Ridge spread out before us. The air quality was excellent and it felt like you could reach out and touch the mountains; it also made the drops look enormous.
The northern end of the Cuillin Ridge lying the far side of Glen Sligachan
We visited the North top first and then enjoyed the exposed col and the short crest leading to the South top.
Poise and elegance above the precipice! The awkward step is behind Beth.
Climbing the awkward step from the col to the South top. This can look intimidating from below but the difficulties are very short-lived.
Skye Winter Conditions, January 2nd
I (Matt) went into Coir’ a’ Mhadaidh with Francis today. We had managed to convince each other that conditions were going to be thin but positive so burdened ourselves with huge amounts of rope and assorted spiky bits of metal. We started our walk in the dark but as dawn arrived it became clear that the recent thaw had stripped more snow and ice than we’d hoped. We went to the foot of South Gully but it was incomplete and running with water.
Glaic Moire face; North and South Gully lead to either end of the horizontal bealach. Descent is by the continuous snow-line left again.
All the snow that we crossed was very firm and there are still extensive patches on the slopes and in the easier angled gullies. Hopefully the next week will bring some more snow and a good melt-freeze cycle to improve the situation…
The Smear (V) living up to its name. It has probably never had a second ascent.
Doug Scott before the first ascent in 1979 (photo Ginger Cain)
Ice Climbing: Coire a’ Bhasteir, 31st Dec
Today Matt went for a day out with Paul to find some ice climbing. It was warm at the Sligachan Hotel but we kept the faith and set off. On reaching the snow-line we were glad to find that some of it was firm. The most solid looking line of ice was situated in a gully directly below Pinnacle Ridge. There was a large amount of avalanche debris below the ice-fall, possibly 3/4 feet deep, that had come from 4/5 gully.
The climbing, though short, turned out to be very pleasureable with the ice inhaling front-points and picks.
We managed another two lines of ice further round the coire but had to beat a retreat after receiving a thorough soaking from the last one. The upcoming freeze should come soon enough to provide good climbing conditions.
