Mongoose Direct 27 May


Hannah Burrows-Smith is taking a break from Alpine guiding and has been working here for the past few weeks. We opted for a “busmans holiday” with a hot approach to the huge cliff on the back of Sgurr Mhiccoinich. We opted for Mongoose Direct, a line of cracks that splits the centre of the cliff. The lowest 2 pitches were very high quality but the crux 3rd pitch spanked my ass. We reverted to the original Mongoose line that joins Dawn Grooves. Above the quality of rock deteriated, motivation dwindled and so we took an escape line out right below the top pitches. Not the most satisfactory result but we did some amazing climbing and had a highly exciting time!

The crag in profile this morning.

Hannah sorting out the 50m abseil down Rotten Gully


Looking up the line


Pitch 1- straight into the laybacking

Hannah on the hard high quality second pitch

The crux pitch that defeated me tackles the white walled corner above.

On the traverse pitch of Dawn Grooves