Classic Steep Cracks; 2 May
I’d arranged to meet with Matt and Francis after my work. The guys had already warmed up on Stormy Petrol (VS 5a) but sadly Matt had to leave to pack for a Ridge Traverse. Those who followed this blog in early winter will have realised Francis Blunt likes a good work out. He is here to work the spring season now and I persuaded him that Kilt Rock isn’t the only place with steep cracks just so that I could play in the Cuillin after my work. I’d heard Overhanging Crack on the underside of the Cioch was fierce at E2 5c and so it proved. Despite overhanging from the start watching Francis inspired me with confidence as the holds apeared juggy and his feet seemed to have plenty to stand on.
Straight into the arm-work
Then he mentioned a word I thought Francis hadn’t heard of- pumped. Annoyed with himself he had to take a rest before the final pull into a pod where the angle eased.
Francis contemplates the crux.
All too soon it was my turn and the jugs suddenly shrank and footholds disappeared. There was a real temptation to hang on the ropes very early on but, apart from it being cheating completely, experience has taught me that getting back onto overhanging rock is very hard work. Luckily the protection all came out without a fight until I was in the welcome pod. Here I did find an excuse to be held on the ropes and take a rest- remains of an ancient wooden wedge from an old aid ascent justified a photo.
Lichen covered remains of the wooden wedge from an aid ascent; the first free ascent wasn’t made until 1978 by Murray Hamilton.
We abseiled back down Cioch Corner, realised it was still only 5pm and the perfect corner lines of Spartan Groove and Trojan Groove on the walls opposite sealed the decision to do another route. Ignoring the obvious Blunt-style thuggery that was going to be needed at the top I asked if I could lead.
Starting Spartan Groove, E1, 5b
A bold start led to 25m of beautiful crack climbing to reach the huge roof blocking the finish.
I didn’t remember that the original finish went out right from here and went full throttle into the strenuous series of underclings. Impatiently I lurched at the final hold and woop… I was off.
Dangling after getting the sequence wrong.
Lesson learnt I got the sequence right second time and a combination of annoyance and ropedrag did take the edge off completing a fantastic route for a few minutes but was soon forgotten.
Spilling blood and fighting rediculous ropedrag above the crux
We walked out in a beautiful hebridean sunset with plenty respect for the Cuillin cracks. 3 quality routes for Francis and I’d had 14 hours of Cuillin heaven.
