Winter Traverse Watch
All eyes are now carefully studying the forecast for the next few days. Conditions are very close to being ideal for the Holy Grail of British Mountaineering- a Winter Traverse of the Cuillin Ridge.
Neil Mackay on the successful Traverse 30 November 2010.
Quoting from the SMC guidebook text I have just proof read over the past 24hrs-
In good conditions this is probably the greatest single climb to be had in Britain. Good conditions are rare with one period a season possibly above average since it was first achieved. The good news is that frequency does not seem to be decreasing and the internet now gives aspirants unprecedented access to forecast and condition reports. Anything but good quality neve on the crest makes progress incredibly slow and physical. Tom Patey suggested that a heavy dump of snow with little wind, so that the crest isn’t stripped, is the first stage. A minor thaw right to the summits followed by a sharp freeze and good weather (an easterly wind and high pressure) for the next few days is the ideal scenario. Opportunities must be grasped quickly before sun or rain strip the crest back to bare rock.
We now have the makings- a thick covering with a minor thaw that is estimated to have reached above the tops. Cold weather is forecast but there is a slight hiccup- the normally dream situation of a cloud inversion is predicted.
Summer Temperature Inversion
The more technical name for this is a temperature inversion which means the glens will be cold but the tops may be warm! How warm is the key factor; my feeling is that, above all this snow, the damage likely to be caused will be minimal and clear night skies will put a good solid crust in place within a night or two. Personally I would wait and see what Saturday looks like but be ready to go Sunday. Below a cloud inversion the weather is grey, damp and murky so don’t get put off! For more advice study the brief download from this website- http://skyeguides.co.uk/Downloads/SkyeGuides_TheWinterTraverse.pdf
Skye Report 9 December 2010
I’m still providing a weekly conditions report for UKC and will also post it here.
A good thaw has started today with temperatures up to about 8 degrees. All the snow recently needs this to settle it in and if the predicted freeze returns next week there could be the most incredible conditions for any number of Skye objectives. I’ll keep regular updates of temps, rain, snow levels etc through the next few days.
The Cuillin action of last week was rounded off nicely by hearing of the successful Traverse on 29 and 30th November by Neil and xxxx. This is the earliest Traverse I’ve heard of in a season, possibly the first ever before the turn of the year. All backed up with Jamie Hageman’s superb photo of the guys abseiling from the Basteir Tooth that won pic of the week on UKC- http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=160721
JAMIE’S SELF-PORTRAIT (taken at the same time)
Heavy snow started falling again last Friday and has pretty much put the Cuillin out of reach since so attention switched to the Storr and the ice in Coire Scamadal. Robin Clothier & Doug Hawthorn found new objectives a bit thin but enjoyed the 3 pitches on Scamtastic V,5. This line repeatedly seems to form first.
SCAMTASTIC, pitch 2.
On Wednesday Doug was back with Ewan Todd who had bravely driven through from Aviemore. Doug pointed Ewan at the unclimbed line of ice left of Silverpine (2010) that ended half-way up the face. Ewan belayed to the steep top icicle. Ultimately they opted against attacking it (the belay!) direct and Doug took a weaving line left then right which required him to be “reasonably confident at getting runners/ belays sorted.” Ewan finished out right with a long pitch over the top.
FA (First Ascent) Greymane wall, possibly V,4. The 1st belay was on the large icicle beneath the lowest climbers feet.
An excellent selection of shots and video are on Colin’s Blog- http://colinthrelfall.wordpress.com/
More Cuillin Action. 2 December 2010
The strong team of Pete Macpherson, Martin Moran and Francis Blunt were up on the Basteir Tooth today making an external finish to Shadbolt’s Chimney. Previously climbed by Dave Ritchie and Mark Shaw in 2002 by the through tunnel (IV,5) Pete went around the outside variation finish at grade VII,7.
SHADBOLT’S CHIMNEY TODAY
Storvegan. 1 December 2010
One of the most stunning natural lines on Skye, Storvegan gains and climbs the roof of the mighty central wall (250m) of the Storr. It was finally climbed by Martins Moran and Welch in January 2010 and graded VI,8.
An alpine start was rewarded with alpine type scenery but only 40mins from the car.
Luckily only a small pepparing of snow and ice started as the sun hit the walls above the first pitch
After clearing a snow-filled chimney Francis reached the wide crack in the roof before the crux. The Camalot 5 close before the commiting moves seemed ideal. As Francis pulled on the first couple of tiny hooks I noticed it walk sideways; a brief mental juggle and I opted to tell him rather than let him carry on. Calmy reversing he buried a bomber bulldog to replace the cam, had a few words with himself, then put the crux sequence together first time.
I hung on the cam to remove the bulldog before my turn. Stretch on 40m of rope & the prospect of prussicking focused me well, making sure I got my leashed tools in the right order first time. Some good ice then well consolidated steep snow led to a belay below a long chimney.
Francis found the chimney well protected but hard before running it out to a turfy belay. Turf for the next 60m took me up to a fine arete of snow and amazing sunset over the western seaboard.
One more tiny rock step and easy slope led to the summit cairn. A fantasy route come true for me; thanks Francis.
Post Script- In correspondence with Martin Moran about grades (see Incredible History post above) Storvegan is possibly slightly easier than he thought technically so VI,7 may be a better guide to future aspirants. 3 stars certainly.
