Skye Guides

With the gulf stream flowing over the top of Scotland it is spring-like on Skye just now and, for winter climbers, disappointingly mild. High pressure that is keeping the gulf stream suspended so far north is also producing some incredibly low tides.

Time, instead, for a long-standing project to cross from Skye to Scalpay at Strollamus. Previous attempts on equinox tides in March & September would have required going in over the thigh for a couple of steps but water barely went over the welly level yesterday. We then discovered a sand-bar 50m to the north would have let us cross with dry feet- doh.

The real joy of these tides is the variety of sea-life. Big pink sea urchins sit like beacons; the gulls must have learnt that their spikes aren’t worth tackling.

Sea Urchin

A new one for me was a huge star-fish that was also armoured with hard spikes.

Jets of water spurted from the sand all around us on the Scalpay side, possibly razors but I’m not sure. More accessible on the edible front was a single princess scallop which wouldn’t make much of a meal on its own but I’ve previously found a couple of king scallops and was hopeful more than optimistic of finding another. Our luck was in and we’re looking forward to scallops for Sunday lunch.

I saw rainbows a few times over the last couple of days for the first time in what seems like ages; guess they have struggled to form with the sun being so low over the last month.

 Double Rainbow seen from the Skye Bridge

It reminded me of a fantastic effect I was priveliged to witness whilst working on a fish farm when I first arrived on Skye. I saw half a dozen rainbows at the same time. The passage of time made me think I’d imagined it but a web-site I was directed to explained how reflected rainbows are created- Atmospheric Optics

I wrote to Les Cowley who runs the site to thank him and this was his reply:

Hello Mike,
You are very lucky.  Not only because Skye is such a marvellous location but also with its frequent showers interspersed with sunshine it appears to be one of the world’s top spots for rainbows.  Your lochs then give reflection bows.   Hawaii is the other top spot.
Do carry a camera!
Best regards,
Les

The long slow thaw has finally stopped with fresh snow thinly down to 600m today. There is plenty of snow still around but full Ridge traverses are out for a while to come. I’m not sure if any of the fat mid-level ice will have survived- it was certainly hanging in there- see Matt’s report on Coir’a’ Bhasteir below.

Best winter options over the next few days will probably be some of the easy long snow lines left that stretch from low-down to the crest. Left & Right Gullies direct to the summit of Thuilm, Diagonal Gully on Ghreadaidh and many more. 1/2, 2/3, 4/5 gullies between the pinnacles of Pinnacle Ridge all looked complete today as did Just a Boys Game (III) and NW Face Route (II/III) on Gillean. Remember that the Ridge crest is likely to be at least as challenging in most places that these fine approaches lead to and Pinnacle Ridge is likely to be full value IV. Last year I posted some other suggestions and descriptions that may be useful- http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=394251&v=1#x5685936

I wasn’t out- Tom & Rachel had hired winter tools from me and showed me their pics this evening as they raved about their round of Fionn Choire. They started by the NE ridge of Sgurr a Bhasteir (I) putting on crampons from about half-height. The wind died as they topped out and they indulged in the horizontal section leading to Bealach na Lice below the Tooth before heading out to Bruach na Frithe and practising ice-axe breaking down Fionn Choire. It is easy to forget how stunning both the scenery and mountaineering is on the Cuillin in its proper Alpine garb. Here’s to a continuation of this fine winter long into 2011. Slainte.

Many thanks to Sandy Top Shop this morning for his warning that climbers should be particularly careful to avoid wind-slab accumulations on south and west facing slopes! The ex-rescue team guru (renowned for selling packets of cigarettes at ludicrous prices during prolonged rescues) was still wearing his gortex in the shop because the next bout of snow has arrived. The main road is passable with care and deliveries have made it up from the central belt this morning.

Sadly it looks as though the thaw was slightly too fierce resulting in what I would call Alpine spring conditions rather than full winter. Any thin covering of snow has been removed but huge swathes are rapidly turning to neve. I’m only able to comment on what I have seen from the ground today but will get up for a look tomorrow. It is certainly cold enough with a heavy frost remaining in any shade even at sea-level today.

COIRE NA BANACHDAICH TODAY

In my experience of such conditions the crest of the Ridge remains far more wintry than it appears from below. My educated guess is that crampons would be left on and scratching on rocky surfaces for less than 10% of the whole 12km length.

Neve on approaches, descents and long sections should make for very fast travel; the forecast is for high pressure to remain and I doubt anyone attempting it will be disappointed. Snow will be falling heavily by the end of Wednesday and full-on winter will be back with us from then on virtually to Xmas.

SLIGACHAN VIEW 2pm TODAY.

More tomorrow, Mike

Whiter than ever, I had to see if Skye had reached the point of off-piste skiing. It hadn’t but I had fun trying and avoided breaking a leg. The Druim Eadar da Choire starts from the Robber’s Fall at the head of Loch Ainort just 2 minutes drive up the road from home. An hour of walking leads to one of the most stunning viewpoints on the island at point 489 (must have a local name which I will try to find out).

Pt 489 is the  rounded top left of centre; Marsco to the right

Wet bogs were frozen over still despite the thaw and then a fresh set of prints broke trail through the crusty deep snow above. The vista back past the Red Cuillin to Raasay was superb.

I could see the dark clouds gathering and knew it was a race for the view; I lost and the blizzard enveloped me filling the tracks instantly. Once back below the tiny rocky section it was time to clip on the boards; surely the crust would hold my weight and let me side-slip gracefully home?

2 minutes later I’d made every fall in the clowns manual. It was time to grow up and go home.

The minor thaw in the last 2 days saw a spate of cars spin off in old slush but basically the main roads are all fine if driven with caution. Overnight temps are supposed to drop to about zero but clear skies could make it lower. The Glen Brittle road hasn’t been ploughed/gritted since the latest precipitation started so the old snow has turned icy and some fresh has landed at the highest points; probably not advisable unless in a 4*4. With sleet still falling the Storr road north of Portree is hard to predict but will almost certainly be gritted by 8am.

SKYE PARKING A COUPLE OF DAYS AGO.