Conductor Cove at Neist. 17 May
Mike’s report.
On his fifth outing with Skye Guides Dave had faith with our ability to find dry rock despite the forecast as he left Aberdeen on Monday. An early start out to Neist let us do 4 routes before the predicted storms actually hit. Conductor Cove is so-called because the thick copper conductor from the lighthouse gives the scrambling approach to the foot of the climbs. Grades in the last guidebook have gained a certain notoriety and I’ve labelled the photos below with my opinions.
Lucky Strike, Severe, takes the crack left of the rope. Our direct start has a stiff 5a move to reach positive holds.
Dave leads Dulux Corner, Hard V. Diff. A good route and the easiest climb in the cove.
Dave on the steep finish of Natural Look, Severe which I think is the best route hereabouts if the lower wall is added as mentioned in the description.
Gannet Crack which, in my opinion, deserves upgrading to Hard Severe or even VS (for the short) because of the ferocity of the crux.
Dubh Ridge
Matt’s Report
After a day in the rain yesterday I was out with Alan, Nigel and Cole again today. We were hoping for better things and were not disappointed. The Dubh ridge was dry, the main ridge was in view and the rain held off until we had finished scrambling for the day; brilliant! I could not praise the fun and quality of a Dubh Ridge day out enough-everyone who loves Skye mountaineering should try and do this ridge at least once. Immaculate rock, wilderness setting, slabs, knife edge crests, down climbing, route finding and great summits all combine to make this an unforgettable day out.
Approaching Coriusk by boat
Lazing around…
Three wise men?
Acres of Gabbro
High above Loch Coriusk
Signs of Spring
Matt’s Report
The challenging conditions have continued so photographic opportunities on the tops are limited but I took a few shots of various spring flowers on the way down. The rain is not good from the climbing point of view but growing conditions are great!
Butterwort or midge killer!
Cotton Grass, looking a bit bedraggled
Gorse in Glen Brittle
Lousewort
Lichens in bloom
Windy & wintry. 14 May
Mike’s report.
Despite the tops being clear frequently at the south end of the Ridge it was undeniably challenging today.
Coire Lagan when we arrived at the beach.
Sgurr Mhicchoinnich in the wet is always greasy and strong winds blowing up from Coire Lagan didn’t help. Collie’s Ledge was a particularly slow and scary section.
2 shots of Collie’s Ledge
After lunch we traversed Thearlaich which was sheltered initially but a real snow storm came in for 5 minutes as we descended to the Stone Shoot. I’ll try to put the video of us abseiling in this onto You-tube soon. Everything cleared again briefly as we topped out on Alasdair with beautiful light and fine views but it was time to head back for well deserved beers.
Rainbow over Thearlaich from Alasdair.
Forecasters wildly wrong; a pleasure!
Mike’s report.
Grant, Bruce and I had the north end of the Cuillin virtually to ourselves as strong winds and low clouds were forecast. Instead we had clear tops and only 3 heavy showers through the whole day. Dry rock on Am Basteir makes things far less serious so we went for that first in case the rain arrived. The dash and snatch approach again proved unneccesary for Gillean after lunch. Heavy rain did arrive shortly after 4pm but will hopefully clear through before the morning.
Morning sun on the approach.
DEscending the Bad Step on Am Basteir
Descending the steep upper reaches of the West Ridge of Gillean
With the demise of yet more blocks in evidence today (helmet off the pinnacle above the Window in particular!) I felt the urge to finally climb an improbable block part way down the West Ridge. It wasn’t easy with a slithering basalt chimney approach and loose crest to descend but if a lightning bolt blows it to bits tomorrow I won’t regret missing it out; great adrenalin rush!
Had to be done.
Paramo-proof; 12 May
They may refuse to sponsor me but I’m still happy to push Paramo waterproofs as the way to go in Scotland. Today happened to have a shop window effect- hence the blog title- but all the Skye Guides use the jackets and I use waterproof trousers in the same material made to measure by Cioch Direct here on the island. It’s durability as well as vastly superior breathability to most other materials makes it ideal.
Gill and Matt reported over the past 2 days that the weather looked far worse than it was and that was certainly the case today. Apart from 3 heavy showers that each lasted no more than 5 minutes we stayed dry although the rocks remained damp. We traversed the skyline of Coire a’ Ghreadaidh (grade 3) by the 3 Munros in about 7 hours.
Knife-edge work at the end of Sgurr a’ Ghreadaidh.
Looking at the Three Teeth ahead
The Full Paramo Monty!
Sharks, Weddings and Sunsets.
Matt’s Report
I had a magical days climbing with Ian at Neist Point today. We headed for the guaranteed(?!) suntrap of Conductor Cove at the foot of the light house. Along the path we stopped to watch a basking shark cruise around the bay and the amount of gannets, cormorants, and guillemots around all seemed to suggest that there are plenty of fish around. We had a superb time climbing the immaculate black rock and after our first route topped out to the slightly surreal sight of a wedding being conducted at the top of the crag! After a few more routes we moved back to the upper crag of the south sector where Ian lead Juniper Rib. After admiring two more basking sharks we decided to call it a day…just another working shift on the Isle of Skye!
There is a shark in there somewhere.
Brilliant wellies under the wedding dress!
Ian on Dulux Corner
Halfway on Lucky Strike
The final move on Lucky Strike
Ian rounding off the day by leading Juniper Rib
A bonus sunset photo!
Windy but dry at the north end; 8th & 9th May.
Despite the poor forecasts clients have been out enjoying the Cuillin in weather far better than expected. Yesterday Gillean took Dicky Green up Mhadaidh & Ghreadaidh while Francis tackled the Spur on Sgurr an Fheadain with Fraser & Mark. Everyone enjoyed clear blue skies from shortly after lunch.
Today was equally windy but Francis and Vic found the back of Am Basteir dry & friendly and got views from the summit of Bruach na Frithe while Gill climbed the Tourist Route with Andy.
Beautiful views to the south from Bealach a’ Bhasteir today
Guides play time. 6&7 May
Gillian and Francis made the most of the dry spells in the past couple of days and had fun at Kilt rock in the north of Skye where on Friday they climbed ‘A Haggis called Wanda’ and ‘Fancy Free’ on Elishadder Wall. Yesterday they we’re joined by Rich, climbing the classic ‘Grey Panther’ on Kilt rock itself and ‘Skyscraper’ on Elishadder wall. Umpteen more perfect-ish dolerite cracks to go at and all within 45 mins drive from Broadford, ideal!
Czech climber on Fancy Free, E2 5b (2007)
Uber-Kilt classic Grey Panther, E1 5b
Platinum Pink Sunset tonight, 8th May.
Gillean by the Tourist Route- the original classic scramble
Mike’s report for Saturday 7th May.
The pattern of heavy overnight rain, slow clearing high cloud and an afternoon of hot sun was repeated again today and seems likely for tomorrow (Sunday) too.
Fraser, Mark & I tackled the Tourist Route up Gillean’s South-East Ridge We started this last half hour with cloud covering all the tops and finished in blazing sunshine with every top on the Ridge clear; Magnifique.
Holwing wind and cloud cover greeted us at the SE Ridge
We climbed it directly as opposed to the easier terraces that run up the south side. It’s a few years since I last enjoyed this crest but it was as fantastic as I remembered with a couple of steep chimneys, some narrow ridges and clean slabs all leading to the final narrowing.
Beautiful views out over Sgurr na h-Uamha to Elgol
Descending the West Ridge was finished on a high with Fraser’s first ever abseil.
Learn to lead; again.
After the bad dream that was a wet and windy ascent of the Pinn on Thursday normal service of dry rock & views returned after lunch again yesterday.
Ian used to climb 20+ years ago but is now a self-pronounced “all the gear; no idea”.
A 50th birthday present to himself to rediscover the skills went well and, after a brief revision (he had it all locked in there really) he led a great 1st pitch up Slab Corner to the Cioch.
Taking in the views, Pinn in the background.
Mhadaidh & Ghreadaidh
Matts Report
After a wet ascent of Sgurr nan Gillean and Bruach na Frithe yesterday I was out on the middle section of the ridge with John and Teresa again. We spent most of our day enjoying the atmosphere of the cloud enshrouded ridge until it cleared in the late afternoon. John and Teresa have both developed a lot of confidence in their scrambling ability over the last few days. It was a pleasure to see John in the lead finding the best line on the descents from both tops and Teresa has made great progress in using her feet in a very positive manner even on the steeper ground. Another fine effort!
High stepping action
A Cheval….another reassuring Cuillin technique!
Integrity, Arrow Route & Cioch West. 4 May
Mike’s report.
Lakes based climbers Andy & Nikki Wild treated themselves to a feast of gabbro classics with me on Wednesday. It’s a hard job sometimes…
Andy enjoying the position on the crux Traverse on Cioch West
and Nikki enjoying the finishing jug.
The sweeping Cioch Slab with ropes running down Arrow Route
Good coloured rope use for a party on Integrity.
Nikki ecstatic topping out on Integrity
Picking out the lines and features we had followed
Mountaineering in the Sunshine. 3 & 4 May
Matt’s Report
I have spent the last three days with John and Teresa having great fun on the ridge. John had briefly sampled the ridge over 30 years ago and this was Teresa’s first experience of Cuillin Rock. We took advantage of the great weather on Tuesday and Wednesday by heading out to Coire Ghrunnda with bivvy kit. Tuesday was an introduction to Skye scrambling and then on Wednesday morning we enjoyed the classic mountaineering of Coire Lagan, finishing with an In Pinn ascent. Teresa and John both coped with all the demands of Cuillin mountaineering in a fine style and threw themselves into every challenge of our mini adventure with complete enthusiasm. The sunshine, perfect rock and Johns intense interest in every aspect of the mountains made this an outstanding trip.
Looking south from Sgurr nan Eag
Teresa discovering the delights of Gabbro
Learning to trust your feet above big drops-an essential Cuillin skill.
Peeking into Coire Lagan near the top of Sgurr Alasdair
Descending the roof of Sgurr Thearlich
Helicopter pilot wishing that he was lucky enough to be on the ridge!
Classic Steep Cracks; 2 May
I’d arranged to meet with Matt and Francis after my work. The guys had already warmed up on Stormy Petrol (VS 5a) but sadly Matt had to leave to pack for a Ridge Traverse. Those who followed this blog in early winter will have realised Francis Blunt likes a good work out. He is here to work the spring season now and I persuaded him that Kilt Rock isn’t the only place with steep cracks just so that I could play in the Cuillin after my work. I’d heard Overhanging Crack on the underside of the Cioch was fierce at E2 5c and so it proved. Despite overhanging from the start watching Francis inspired me with confidence as the holds apeared juggy and his feet seemed to have plenty to stand on.
Straight into the arm-work
Then he mentioned a word I thought Francis hadn’t heard of- pumped. Annoyed with himself he had to take a rest before the final pull into a pod where the angle eased.
Francis contemplates the crux.
All too soon it was my turn and the jugs suddenly shrank and footholds disappeared. There was a real temptation to hang on the ropes very early on but, apart from it being cheating completely, experience has taught me that getting back onto overhanging rock is very hard work. Luckily the protection all came out without a fight until I was in the welcome pod. Here I did find an excuse to be held on the ropes and take a rest- remains of an ancient wooden wedge from an old aid ascent justified a photo.
Lichen covered remains of the wooden wedge from an aid ascent; the first free ascent wasn’t made until 1978 by Murray Hamilton.
We abseiled back down Cioch Corner, realised it was still only 5pm and the perfect corner lines of Spartan Groove and Trojan Groove on the walls opposite sealed the decision to do another route. Ignoring the obvious Blunt-style thuggery that was going to be needed at the top I asked if I could lead.
Starting Spartan Groove, E1, 5b
A bold start led to 25m of beautiful crack climbing to reach the huge roof blocking the finish.
I didn’t remember that the original finish went out right from here and went full throttle into the strenuous series of underclings. Impatiently I lurched at the final hold and woop… I was off.
Dangling after getting the sequence wrong.
Lesson learnt I got the sequence right second time and a combination of annoyance and ropedrag did take the edge off completing a fantastic route for a few minutes but was soon forgotten.
Spilling blood and fighting rediculous ropedrag above the crux
We walked out in a beautiful hebridean sunset with plenty respect for the Cuillin cracks. 3 quality routes for Francis and I’d had 14 hours of Cuillin heaven.
Classic Alasdair. 2 May
Sheila Finlayson from Thurso asked for a classic scrambling route onto Alasdair and certainly got good value as we tackled the SW Ridge of Alasdair by the legendary Mauvais Pas or Bad Step. It is a very awkwad & scary off balance manouvre involving a one finger hold that has to be used by both hands. It took me 4 goes to get the balance and sequence right.
The camera isn’t fast enough to catch going from this one-finger hold….
…to this
As quite an experienced climber Sheila watched carefully & I could hear her rehearsing the moves but she remained pretty confident that the guide was just making a meal of it. From my solid belay immediately above there was undeniable entertainment as the degree of swing became apparent to Sheila all too quickly and the commentry and facial expressions hit comedy level. Luckily Sheila saw the funny side too.
Sheila recovers from the rude awakening.
The reward is one of the most precarious but fantastically positioned ridges in the Cuillin with huge sweeeping drops to Coire Lagan on one side and Coire a’ Ghrunnda on the other, leading directly to the highest point on the island.
Tilted because I was hanging on but you get the idea!
We continued over Thearlaich after Alasdair before Sheila had to make an early return to the family. I then took the handy Lochan Traverse across the face of Sgumain’s West Buttress and met up with Francis for some good climbing on Sron na Ciche in the afternoon sun- see the next blog entry for pics & details.
Summit Shots
Matts Report
I received some good photos from Rob today that reflect some of the enjoyment (and relief!) of reaching Cuillin Summits in good company. Rob and Mal completed their Cuillin Munro campaign later in the week after a few days of guided ascents.
On top of the In Pinn
Ghreadaidh
Glorious conditions continue. 30 April
Wall to wall sunshine is helping many dreams come true. I was on the Pinn with Colin Barry who had climbed all of the other Cuillin peaks under his own “guidance” since starting in 1982. The emotional mix of relief & excitement on reaching the top was tangiable despite keeping his eyes hidden from me all day!
Colin takes it all in from the Pinn
Victory Pose
At the other end of the Ridge Scott was helping Bill and Royanne Quinton finally complete their Munro Tops on the Basteir Tooth. This was accomplished stylishly with an ascent of the classic rock climb Naismith’s Route.
Bill & Royanne high on Naismith’s Route
and on top of the Bhasteir Tooth
Huge numbers of parties succeeding on their Ridge Traverses with overheating and dehydration the main concern. Dave Birkett and Mary were spotted making good progress yesterday taking about 3 hours between An Dorus and Am Basteir. Were they scanning the corries for some big projects to work on over the next few days?
It was good to see the RAF practising in the corries rather than being needed but please keep vigilant and continue to stay safe.
Search & Rescue Sea-King helicopter in Coire Lagan below us
Bagging Mission!
Matt’s Report
I have spent the last two days ticking Munros and Tops with Ian. Yesterday we nipped in ahead of the hordes on Pinnacle Ridge and enjoyed the classic round of Coire Basteir, finishing with Bruach na Frithe. Today we started on Sgurr Mhadaidh and finished with Mhic Chonnich. The sun has been blazing both days and the cool breeze on the tops has been much appreciated. We have been over 8 Munros, 6 tops, descended 4 abseils and covered a huge amount of scrambling in the last two days. An amazing effort from Iain and hopefully tomorrow he will tick the Munros and tops on the south end of the ridge.
Climbing out of An Dorus
Looking north from Ghreadaidh
Sgurr Thuilm and North-West Skye
Ian on one of the many tops we visited
Fine week finishes on a high. 29 April
Mike’s report.
Chloe overcame all her dislike of exposure and big drops in no uncertain manner today as she talked herself every step of the way up the long East Ridge of the In Pinn. Sis Emma tried to claim some nervousness but was far too calm and smiley throughout.
Smile!
The girls loved the scrambling and we headed over to Banachdaich before a rapid descent of the screes in Coire an Eich.
Easy scrambling with Coire Lagan peaks behind.
Fun running on the screes
Patience pays off for the Pinn. 28 April
Mike’s report.
A privelige to guide local physio Eve Bolton & hubby Paul today on their 6th wedding anniversary. Also along was best man Matt, a Cuillin virgin who thoroughly enjoyed his baptism of fire.
Local understanding was easy with a wet start and we agreed on a relaxed start to let the damp weather move through. The result was a midday set-off resulting in a dry day with ever improving views and not a sole to be seen! My guess is that many took the cloud as a welcome excuse to have a rest after such an excellent period of weather.
We climbed Mhic Choinnich, An Stac Direct then moved straight onto the Pinn for wedding cake & Talisker.
Malt whiskey appreciation continued when we got back to the Sligachan too.
Slainte, Mike
Paul confidently striding along the back of Mhic Choinnich
The mists clear just as we top out
Eve relaxed despite the position
On An Stac Direct; possibly the best part of the whole Cuillin Ridge in my opinion.
Matt calms the nerves with Talisker
The Matterhorn of Skye
Matt’s Report
I went out with Sam and Tim for their final day of rope-work, route finding and scrambling coaching. We opted for the super classic traverse of Clach Glas and were rewarded with a fine, dry and windless day. We had a great time on the awesomely grippy rock and enjoyed all the route finding and decision making challenges. Good luck to Sam and Tim for their riding across Mongolia mission!
Tim leading the way up the initial slabby crest
Sam in the lead
Tim leading on a steep section
Sam practicing lassoing for Mongolia!
Descending under the cliffs of Bla Bheinn
Tim enjoying the scree running
More Alpine skills training. 27 april
mike’s report
Tim & Sam are actually off to Mongolia not the Alps next year but their rope skills should help them enjoy the unclimbed peaks out there with greater confidence. Both have shown good abilities and understanding and I let them keep each other safe for most of the outing today.
In cold but glorious weather we climbed Sgumain, Alasdair and Thearlaich
Final section of the south-west flank approach to Alasdair
An important exercise was setting up anchors for abseils and descending Sgurr Thearlaich direct certainly provided a testing challenge.
Tim on the top abseil with Blaven behind.
Sam holds the nerve a long way above Coire an Lochain
Turquoise waters of Loch Coire a’ Ghrunnda
Multiple Munros
Matt’s Report
I have been out with Robert and Malcolm for three days out of the last four and we have been up Gillean, Am Basteir, Mhic Chonnich, Mhadaidh, Ghreadaidh, Banachdich and the In Pinn. It has been an excellent few days of Munro bagging, good weather and good company. It was also great to see the guys confidence and scrambling ability improve through the course. They went from slight concern at the prospect of the Tourist Route on Gillean to total self-confidence on the knife edge section between the north and south tops of Ghreadaidh.
Testing the frictional properties of the Gluteus Maximus!
Mal enjoying the exposure
Nearly at the top of Mhadaidh
Robert looking relaxed on the way down
Great view into Coriusk
Rob seeing the funny side while Mal climbs.
The crest is best!
Nice at Neist, 26 April
Mike’s report.
Chloe, Emma and I lapped up the sunshine on a couple of rock climbs at Neist Point today.
Emma smearing on Sonamara, VS 4c.
Chloe topping out with An t-Aigeach, the Stallion’s Head, behind.
Happy Christmas on the In Pinn, 26 April
Matt’s Report
As the result of an inebriated conversation Tom had bought his Dad (Joe) and Uncle (Richard) a Christmas present which was a guided ascent of the In Pinn. Joe and Richard have been Cuillin enthusiasts for a long time, so long in fact that they even remember when the Great Stone Shoot was a good scree run! Despite the guys protests of being unfit we stormed up to the In Pinn in a fast time and hopped straight on to the East Ridge. In contrast to yesterdays cold and windy conditions today could not have been any more perfect. It was a magical day to be out in the Cuillin, dry rock, sunshine, good views and plenty of people out on the tops. There was still traces of ground frost near the top of Sgurr Dearg at 11am so bring a good sleeping bag if you are planning a traverse in the near future!
The In Pinn lurking behind Sgurr Dearg
Tom enjoying the approach to the In Pinn
If you look closely you can see 2 people at the top of the Stone Shoot, gives a good sense of the scale of Sgurr Alasdair and Thearlaich
Nearly at the Summit.
Joe showing good style and excellent socks on his abseil!
Dry but cold on the Pinn. 25 April
A pulse of baltic air removed the summery feel from the Cuillin today. I opted to avoid queuing for the Pinn and climbed the classic South Crack a 30m long Hard V Diff on the south face. Despite cold fingers Richard & Jo enjoyed this unusual first day in the Cuillin & we carried on to Banachdich to warm up & enjoy the views.
Mike on the South Crack (Taken from the halfway platform on the East Ridge)
I forgot my camera but hopefully Matt has some as he was also on the Pinn with Rob & Mal before taking them over to Mhicchoinnich. Whiskey was flowing before they’d even reached Coire Lagan apparently!
North end; 24 April.
The heavy overnight rain that still hung around this morning soon cleared today to give ideal conditions.
Very full waterfall above the 2nd bridge on our approach.
Matt & I both headed up the Tourist Route with our clients; Tim & Sam learning to use a rope safely with me and Rob & Mal aiming to complete their Cuillin Munros.
Sun and Gillean clear just on cue
Beal Joker ropes put to good use at the crux of the “Tourist Route”
Mike, Sam and Tim contemplating the final narrow section to the summit of Gillean.
Sam & Tim compare notes with Am Basteir behind.
Just love it when you get good days unexpectedly!
Returning over the 1st bridge with the North End behind.
It’s always sunny at Elgol; rock climbing 23 April.
Heavy overnight rain was a bit of a shock after such an excellent week but Elgol is always a reliable venue to teach climbing.
Chloe & Emma have learnt to smear on polished gritstone in the past so I was happy to show them some real holds on the huge sandstone jugs at this superb crag.
We practiced footwork intensely for a few hours before heading over to the main cliff and an ascent of Fertility Right.
The Buckley girls below the corner of Fertility Right
Emma bridging nicely near the top of Fertility Right, a 25m Severe
It’s a bit bigger than Stanage with a lot less people was the conclusion!
Ropework on Sgurr nan Fheadain
Matt’s Report
A great effort from the Hendersons today as they had their first Cuillin experience. The brief was learning how to use a rope for scrambling and Sgurr nan Fheadain is ideal with only 40 minutes of walking to reach the rocks. After a demonstration and some simple instructions Matt and Monique did an excellent job of looking after each other all the way up. We briefly did some standard pitching to see how slow and unsuitable this is. On the descent they learnt how to safely set up anchors and then tested these with their first ever abseil.
Despite the full range of Skye weather from sunshine to horizontal rain and exploring the relative levels of friction between the gabbro and the basalt the outing was a resounding success.
Monique leading the way
