Costa del Elgol; 18th July
Mike’s report.
Looking across the bay from the practice crag to the main cliff at Suidhe Biorach
Yesterdays rediculously heavy rain cleared through by dawn and hot sunshine burnt away the clouds by lunch again today. Most importantly the hot sun even burnt away the midges that would have otherwise made our sheltered crag pretty unbearable.
The result was a perfect day for an introduction to outdoor climbing for Finlay, Sean and his Dad Mike.
Team pic with the practice crag behind
Finn pulls through the overhangs
Today’s really low tide allowed us to wander across the beach and a rare chance to step back and study the crag from below.
1. Rum Doodle, E2 5c. 2. Angel of Sharkness, HVS 5a. 3. Fertility Right, Severe.
4. Mother’s Pride, E4 5c. All starrred (recommended) and about 30m long.
We climbed the classic Fertility Right.
Sean nearing the top.
All the guys seemed to find it pretty exciting with dad “telling it how it was” (as opposed to the cooler teenage version) in the post match analysis.
Mike’s recovery position doesn’t get any sympathy 🙂
A “Don’t believe the forecast” week; 11-16 July
Last Friday had most forecasts predicting a gruesome week of weather ahead for the whole UK. It’s a good rule of thumb that Skye gets the opposite weather to the rest of the country and, sure enough, the clouds were lifting off the tops by Sunday afternoon.
I started the week with a couple of excellent long days with a D of E group from Tiffin School in Kingston walking through Strath Beag to Torrin and over a shoulder of Blaven down to Camasunary on the first day and then through Glen Sligachan before crossing Bealach a Mhaim into Glen Brittle.
Looking in awe at the view of Camasunary bay after descending from Blaven
Camasunary Bay
On Thursday I went to Ruabh Huinish at the very top of Skye with a Carpe Diem group from Norway. I also discovered a brand new path has been built that makes the approach wonderfully easy under foot.
Carpe Diem set off with the Quiraing in the background.
Lena looks down the huge cliffs below the ruins of Duntulm Castle; how did they build it?
On my way back I joined the triumphant team of Bill and Iain who had just finished a successful Ridge Traverse with Matt as guide. Following on from very fast times in the Glamaig hill race on Saturday and climbing the In Pinn themselves on the Monday I think it’s fair to say the guys had made the most of the first week of their holiday; fine effort!
On Friday and Saturday it was back to the Cuillin with Ben Thurnhill on his first visit. He has good climbing genes however with a grandfather who was the photographer at 28,000ft taking the photo of Hilary and Tensing setting off for the summit of Everest in 1953!! We”stole” Sgurr nan Gillean before the first big front drew in.
Ben on Gillean; he is wearing the old-style helmet as the only one we have that is large enough!
Very heavy overnight rain dictated a relaxed start. We waited until it cleared up about midday and then scrambled on dry rock right around Coire a’ Ghreadaidh.
Impressive waterfalls in Coire a’ Ghreadaidha after the heavy overnight rain.
Ben concentrating over the narrow crest on Ghreadaidh as the mist clears behind him.
I even found time to tackle a new scrambling line I spied many moons ago; it takes the Coruisk side of the hill to Banachdaich from a ramp-line in Bealach Thormaid and finishing up the false gully near the summit that some Ridge parties start to descend by mistake in the mist. To simply describe the line as a 200m Grade 2 scramble doesn’t really tell the whole story. Heaps of untouched rubble & scree perched above the void and not knowing if I was going to have to reverse back down them gave the most realistic insight into how the pioneers first found the Cuillin that I have ever had; peverse but very exciting!
My experimental line onto Banachdaich viewed from Sgurr Thormaid.
Tattie Bogal Festival
There has been an outbreak of scarecrow building on Skye. You can find out more at http://tattiebogal.businesscatalyst.com/home
Here are a few examples:
Selection of last weeks outings.
Mike’s report.
Intro to outdoor rock at Elgol; 27 June.
“Hi Mike, it’s Katrin and Jens from Hamburg. We’re just returned home.. to our boring indoor walls… 🙂 We just want to thank you again for the great experience of climbing the cliffs; we enjoyed it very much.”
Katrin at the top of her first ever abseil!
….and climbing back up the corner of Fertility Right using excellent camming (bridging in English)
Last Cuillin Munros; 29 June
Robbie is close to finishing and has made 4 trips to Skye to climb the Cuillin including the snowy ascent of Basteir reported here back in mid-may. Damp rock on Mhicchoinnich led to very slow progress and made it look like another trip would be needed but the rain stopped, rocks dried quickly and we both dug deep for a physical 3 hour trip to reach Sgurr a’ Ghreadaidh and a late finish.
Robbie on Sgurr Mhicchoinnich
In Pinn- first Cuillin Munro; 1 July
Watching the weather and making a last minute call paid off for Hugh & Masie. The result was in doubt with heavy rain overnight and mist clinging throughout the ascent but the clouds parted to reveal all the views (and drops!) just as we reached the Pinn. Our rapid ascent was followed just as quickly by the mists rolling in and the rocks soaking wet before we all finished abseiling; perfect timing and a perfect result!
“Don’t know what all the fuss is about” says Masie as the Pinn rears into view.
Red Cuillin Solitude; 4th of July
Mike’s report.
An excellent change to the routine today with Phillip from Belgium requesting a good safe walk with sons Louis (14) and Alexander (19). The Red Cuillin Horseshoe was an obvious objective standing at Sligachan this morning with stunning views guaranteed.
Black Cuillin backdrop
We reached Beinn Dearg Mheadhonach (651m) in about 2 hours for a lunch of bread and Brussel’s pate!
View to Loch Ainort, Scalpay and the mainland from Beinn Dearg Mheadhonach
Descent was in order so we aimed south toward Mam a Phobuil before dropping to Glen Sligachan. The screes were pretty rough but the reward was a dip in the cool pools beneath Marsco.
We were entertained with fly-by displays from a couple of huge dragon-flies that were also good enough to sit still for photos. I’ll try to identify him but e-mail help is always welcome- mike@skyeguides.co.uk
Golden-ringed Dragonfly with 4” body and 3” wingspan.
I’m now pretty sure this is the Golden-ringed Dragonfly. Wikepedia say they eat midgies; magic! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Golden-ringed_Dragonfly
Ridge Traverse
Matt’s Report
I have been on the ridge with Petra and Jurgen enjoying perfect weather for the last two days. We had an extremely enjoyable time climbing all the classic bits of the ridge and the bonus of a warm, dry bivvy tucked away from the cold winds in a luxurious cave! Petra and Jurgen are from Innsbruck and thought that the Cuillin Ridge compared well with the Alpine routes they are more familiar with. They did comment that the TD Gap seemed harder than its grade, perhaps due to the polished nature of the rock from generations of scrabbling climbers?! The exposure of Naismith’s route also left a big impression and it was the only time I heard a word of complaint or two!
Ascending the grassy slopes of Gars-bheinn
Climbing the TD Gap
Early morning view of the ridge
Lovely climbing on the second top of Mhadaidh
Enjoying the exposed Naismith’s Route
Making Hay; Mid-June 2011
Mike’s report.
The up-turn in weather has left all our guides very busy over the last wee while. Pictures speak louder etc etc so below are a few of days out I’ve had recently.
Congratulations to Nicola Wright (with Gillian) and Jurgen & Petra (with Matt) on successful Traverses this week.
Elgol Gala boats all decked out for the race
Angel of Sharkness (E1) at Elgol with Pieter from Belgium
Western Drainpipe Ridge, the Cioch and Elgol with the Cool Kings!
In Pinn with Izzie & Kevin Macdonald
Round of Coire na Creiche with Helen Gower
Rope skills, Pinn and Pinnacle Ridge with Dave & Angus
I had a hard day at the office today flying with the film crew making preparations and managing to take pics of Skye Guides and their clients at the same time.
Parked up below the Old Man of Storr
Matt finishing his Traverse with Petra & Jurgen, from Austria (they’re just under the nose of the Tooth starting Naismith’s Route)
Francis about to start the Pinn with Charlie Ross
The Ridge and the Spar Cave
Matt’s Report
Apologies for the lack of entries recently. We have all been very busy enjoying lots more sunshine and dry rock over the last week. I have been out on the ridge with Nick and Mike for the last five days. We found time for some rock climbing and a quick visit to the Spar Cave as well. The Spar Cave was a great attraction in Victorian times, sadly they also liked taking stalagtites as souvenirs but the cave is still well worth a visit-just make sure you get your tide-times right! You can find out more details of getting into the cave via this link: http://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/skye/sparcave.shtml
Looking back to the entrance
Deeper in the cave…
Beautiful rock formations
The results of our glow stick in the dark experiment!
Warning passed on 13 June.
I’ve just had a warning from Tony Hanly through the rescue team about a block that has fallen off on An Caisteal that will affect those on a Traverse.
The block concerned is apparently the entire lump that James is touching?
On Friday, just 4 days after I took this shot, it sounds like a climber repeated this manouvre and took it with him down into the deep slot below. Miraculously he was stopped by a wedged boulder and walked away! Anyone familiar with this feature will be both shocked & amazed.
1hour later;
Thinking a bit more it seems more possible/likely that it was the slot 100m further south along the crest of An Caisteal, usually crossed about 10m down on the Glen Brittle side. There is/was a block far more undercut & worrying here and survivng a tumble into the slot seems a bit more possible. Mike
THIS HAS BEEN CONFIRMED by Steven Crummay, the lucky/unlucky chap who gave the following advice-
“Lessons from it I would say are always carry a 1st aid kit ( I had one), always take a rope on the Cuillin if you are going on anything more than a walk ( we had one and it proved invaluable) don’t assume that everything is solid – Donald must have been standing where I fell just seconds before without anything happening and finally try to make sure that you are not on ground beyond your skill/experience level. We were lucky in that we fairly easily could get ourselves out of the predicament on the top of the ridge and had the right gear to get ourselves down safely, have a hot cup of tea and something to eat and take care of my minor injuries, it is easy to see that without the right gear in the pack and experience it could have been horrendous.”
The Remote North-West
Matt’s Report
I just had a long weekend of sea-cliff climbing at Sheigra. This is an amazing collection of Geo’s composed of immaculate Lewisian Gneiss located about 10 miles south of Cape Wrath.
The best Scottish Guidebook (Apart from the upcoming Skye Cuillin Guide….obviously!)
Lewisian Gneiss is though to have formed about 2500 million years ago (compared to the Cuillin which are mere youths at a sprightly 60 million years old). Gneiss is known as basement rock due to its great age, but of more relevance to the climber is its solid nature, good friction and provision of beautiful cracks and pockets that were designed to provide holds and protection opportunities!
“Cracking Corner” VS 4c
These amazing crags should be visited by every climber because there are brilliant routes at every grade from V Diff to E6.
“In the Pink” V Diff
The climbing is made even more special by the scenery which is superlative and the wildlife which really flourishes up here: the highlight of our weekend was seeing a small pod of Killer Whales, including a calf, swim right past the cliffs.
Looking West
Above Treasure Island Walls
Oldshoremore Bay
Many thanks to John Bennett who sent through these panaroma shots of the Cuillin from his visit at t
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- Looking north from Thearlich
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- Looking north from below the TD gap
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- Sgurr Alasdair to Sgurr nan Gillean
Many thanks to John Bennett who sent through these panaroma shots of the Cuillin from his visit at the start of May.
Loose rock article- Caledonian Mercury; 10 June
An article arising from much publicised rock-falls in the Cuillin has been written by Dave Hewitt (of Angry Corrie fame) for the Caledonian Mercury on-line newspaper and contains much of Mike’s advice and opinions on the subject. Click this link-
Centenary of the 1st ever Traverse; 10 June 2011.
Probably the most famous of all Cuillin achievements happened exactly a century ago; in fact Mssrs MacLaren and Shadbolt were probably just settling down with a fine whisky to celebrate at this very moment. I would loved to have made a celebratory Traverse myself but am starting one tomorrow with Heather & Rob; I felt that “slipping in” a quick crossing today would not have left enough in my tank. I look forward to heaing from anyone who did succeed today. Night, Mike
Cuillin Ridge view.
Traversng Sgurr ’ Ghreadaidh in 2010.
First seal pups seen on Coruisk boat trip; 8 June 2011
The location work with James culminated with a trip into Coruisk and good explore of a new 2km section of the Cuillin for myself; probably the biggest new area to me in well over a decade. The direct start to the Druim nan Ramh raised the adrenalin for a couple of exciting moves and we found some great bouldering on the way down (crucial to James’ research obviously).
Direct start to Druim nan Ramh (the ridge of oars)
Lesser spotted cold-water swimmer
The trip was also quite a wildlife bonanza. The first common seal pup of the season had been born overnight and got Alex the Aqua-explore boat skipper quite excited.
Scavaig seals sunbathing.
The arctic terns were screeching as we arrived; they unusually nest on an island in the fresh-waters of Loch Coruisk and fly out to fish in the sea-water of Loch Scavaig. The large and beautiful golden plovers were equally vocal on the top of the ridge as they tried to attract us away from their nest or fledglings.
A poor zoomed shot of Golden Plover but the bold markings show well
And finally we found a tiny lizard soaking up the sun on some hot gabbro; not sure of the species so please e-mail me if you know.
Newsletter
The June edition of our Newsletter is available through the link below. Happy reading!
http://us2.campaign-archive1.com/?u=51bcb3123055ddfaba6d37dda&id=bf47b6b572
Film Location research, June 6th
Mike’s report.
After landing in Inverness at lunch James arrived as the clouds parted so we headed up for a late stint on the Cuillin. James is working on a big screen blockbuster as location manager and the director wants some more “Mordor” style landscape for the action scenes. Happy to oblige with the Cuillin often being labelled as Tolkeinesque.
James is a climber so loved being up on the top of the Ridge between the more “crew friendly” sections.
Doing the bold step on An Caisteal with a 20m drop beneath his feet!
We went from Sgurr a Bhasteir to Glaic Moire and back to Sligachan in time for last orders.
Mhadaidh and Ghreadaidh
Matt’s Report
I was out with Kate and Penny today on the first day of a five day Munro course. We went up to An Dorus and climbed Ghreadaidh and Mhaidaidh. Some people say that the crux of these two peaks is pronouncing their names correctly!
Sgurr a Ghreadaidh: “Skoor a Hreeta”-translates as Peak of the Mighty Winds and Sgurr a Mhadaidh: “Skoor a Vatty”-translates as Foxes Peak. (Thanks to Gordon Stainforths book for the pronunciations)
The clarity of the views today was astounding and we saw St. Kilda and Boreray quite clearly beyond the Outer Hebrides. (St Kilda is about 75 miles from Glen Brittle)
Climbing out of the Ghreadaidh side of An Dorus
Penny and Kate posing near the top of Mhadaidh
Looking into Coruisk
St Kilda is out there somewhere!
In Pinn
Matts Report
A classic day on the In Pinn with Sherry, Gillian and Matthew today. The weather was lovely, the company was good and the rock was dry! An excellent day in the Cuillin.
Approaching along the west ridge of Sgurr Dearg
Climbing the first part of the east ridge
Matthew trying to find out if the Coruisk side of the In Pinn really has an overhanging and infinite drop!
The classic Pinn shot!
Mike’s Ridge report, 2/3 June.
Particularly chuffed with this success because it looked like the weather was conspiring against us with thick wet mist blowing in off the Atlantic on Thursday morning. All gloom lifted on reaching Sligachan however with the north end clearly dry & nearly cloud free. Plans for a long damp approach to the south end were binned and starting by Pinnacle Ridge (which I had never done for a Traverse) was the highly attractive alternative.
North End at 10am Thursday
Taking it all in from the top of Gillean
We traversed over to the Bhasteir Tooth where we found Gillian with her clients, Kate & John Forbes, abseiling out of King’s Cave Chimney
Kate gets ready to go….
….down there!
After borrowing their ropes we headed south over Bruach na Frithe with the mist lifting off the Ridge just ahead of us all the time. Odd damp corners made some of the climbing (out of Tairnilear & onto Bidean) interesting but there was no urgency.
The rest of the Ridge was finally clear by about 5-30pm
A very happy Beck.
We collected 10 litres of water from a tiny but flowing source in An Dorus using the syphon from a Platypus before making one final long hard rise to a popular bivvy ledge on the top of Sgurr a Ghreadaidh.
Collecting water for overnight and next day.
Dinner of Thai chicken & beef curry was accompanied by some of the most magnificent light effects and views you could ever hope for.
Sunset with Sgurr Thuilm foreground.
Dawn was glorious but sadly the mists rolled in just as we left the bivvy at 7-30am next morning.
Beck sleeping soundly through the sunny dawn
It never rained and there was only a touch of dampness but I was glad to know the way in the pea-souper. On a positive side it meant no queuing for the Pinn and little need for water. In fact the first views we got all day were in the final 20 seconds before reaching the southern most peak of Gars-bheinn.
From here we headed down the East Ridge directly to catch the last boat out of Loch Scavaig and a celebratory Talisker. Slainte!!!
From the Top! Thursday 2 June
Mike is enduring(!) a bivvy above the clouds tonight as he and Beck are half way through a Traverse. They started by Pinnacle Ridge and have spent the day overlooking a cloud inversion. The whole ridge has been clear this evening and there is now some beautiful brockenspectre action as the cloud moves in and out. They should complete the traverse tomorrow and hopefully bring some more good pics. Jealous Matt!
Phone-camera shot with a broken spectre behind the bivvy ledge on Ghreadaidh
Skye Mountain Rescue Team Advice
Sadly there was a fatal accident on Cioch Direct (Lower Cioch Buttress in Coire Lagan) yesterday. The rescue team have advised climbers to stay away from Cioch Direct as there is a considerable amount of loose rock on the route. It would be wise to avoid all nearby routes for the immediate future as the rockfall was quite extensive. You can read the full version of the advice here: http://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/news/warning-issued-to-climbers-after-skye-rockfall/004222/
Our condolences to everyone involved in and affected by this accident. Stay safe out there.
Munro Bagging
Matts Report
We have had some dry weather this week and I have been out taking advantage of it with Douglas and Kevin. We have been up Gillean, Am Basteir, Bruach na Frithe, Mhic Chonnich and the In Pinn in the last few days. The guys have done extremely well, particuarly on Collies Ledge and the In Pinn yesterday!
The west ridge of Sgurr nan Gillean
Walking underneath Am Basteir
Looking back at Am Basteir
Sgurr Alasdair and Sgurr Sgumain looming out of the cloud
Climbing towards bealach Mhic Chonnich
Pinnacle Ridge
Matt’s Report
Patrick and I set off at 7am to beat the forecast rain today. Our early start was rewarded with dry rock all the way to the summit of Sgurr nan Gillean. A small amount of snow preceded the rain and by the time we left the top of Am Basteir it was raining heavily. We also stopped on the way back to find a geo-cache; I felt quite triumphant when I found the canister! (Geo-caching is a form of treasure hunting where people hide markers and then put the long/lat coordinates on the Internet for others to find the marker). On a slightly different note the weather has been pretty dire for the last two and a half weeks now but it has been possible to get out in the hills almost every day. Some flexibility is necessary, heading for lower or shorter options such as Sgurr nan Fheadain or Clach Glas or heading out earlier or later to take advantage of the better weather windows. There are some glimmers of hope late next week as it looks like an area of high pressure may move in-fingers crossed!
Patrick climbing the lovely basalt chimney on the 1st Pinnacle
The red granite of Ruadh Stac standing out against the black gabbro of Bla Bheinn and Clach Glas
Approaching the 3rd Pinnacle
High up on Gillean.
Gillean and Basteir
Matt’s Report
I took a few photos of Scott and Catherine on Gillean yesterday. The north end was a great place to be yesterday as the bulk of the Cuillin gave all of us a relatively sheltered and dry day out (compared to the last few days)! It was quite bizarre to be looking at all the white horses in Loch Scavaig and Loch Sligachan and to be totally sheltered on the crest of the main ridge.
Descending from the summit
Climbing towards the window high up on the west ridge of Gillean
Am Basteir and Caisteal Fionn Coire in the background
Post Storm adventures; 24th May
Scott’s report
The weather today was wild (beautiful in comparison to yesterday!), however we had the odd glimpse of sunshine and some fine views at times from the Northern end of the ridge. Myself and Katherine Mcquitty went up Sgurr nan Gillean via the “tourist route” before descending the west ridge and onto Am Basteir. The wet rock and strong winds made the whole experience slightly more challengeing but enjoyable none the less. Katherine now has only 4 munros left to do – all in the Cullin! Matt and Ian were close behind us and they continued onto Bruach na Frithe.
Further along the ridge Mike was on Mhadaidh and Ghreadaidh with Redge, Rich and Neil While Gillian and Anne had a great day out on the Spur, Sgur an Fheadain.
(Photo 1: Katherine Mcquitty on the summit of Sgur nan Gillean)
(Photo 2: Loch Coruisk from Ghreadaidh)
More Snow adventures from Friday 20th.
Mike’s report
We went for a go at the pinn but, like everyone else, were taken by surprise by the quantity of snow. Beautiful it was but climbing the pinn was opted against; this made Raymond happy but not our Marco.
Fanastic views back to Banachdich
Some happier than others!
Gillian was out with Robbie again and had to tackle the slabs of Am Basteir in a series of small pitches.
Contemplating the final section of Am Basteir from the top of the Bad Step
Gill makes precarious moves near the summit.
Very different from the simple wander that many of us had done the day before! Compare yesterdays shots of Pinnacle Ridge with todays-
Heavy snow on the tops; 20 May
Matts Report
Heavy overnight precipitation and a fast moving thunderstorm this morning suddenly transformed the Cuillin back to winter and caught every team by surprise today. With up to 6 inches of snow any steeper sections would have warranted crampons so there was much rapid changing of plans. Matt had an exciting time around Coire Lagan and An Stac with Alan, Nigel and Cole today with several activities including walking, scrambling, winter climbing, glissading and finishing with rock climbing in the sunshine.
Winter returns- Cole on the An Stac bypass
Busy on Pinnacle Ridge, 19 May
Mike’s report.
Strong westerly winds are deflected by the mighty bulk of Sgurr nan Gillean and, along with solid rough gabbro, make Pinnacle Ridge a good option for days like today. Marco & Raymond had a fine introduction to Cuillin scrambling and positively revelled in it. We’re now looking for a weather window to get a Traverse done.
Francis and Scott guided their parties across all 3 Northern Munros and Gillian did a round of Coire a’ Ghreadaidh with regular Bill Bell.
“Mind your gloves don’t blow off in the wind!”
Raymond in clover on the 4th pinnacle with the Basteirs behind.
Don’t leave me up here please!!
Windy but not too wet; 18 &19 May
Matts Report
Despite the dire weather forecasts it has been possible to get out on dry rock the last two days. I was on Sgurr nan Fheadain with Alan yesterday and we had good fun on the scramble. It was a case of listening for the roar of an approaching gust and then crouching down and clinging on for a few seconds. This had the advantage of drying out the rock instantly and we both enjoyed a memorable day!
Looking at Sgurr nan Fheadain and the obvious dog leg of Waterpipe Gully
Today I was out with Alan and Cole and we enjoyed a dry ascent of Pinnacle Ridge and finished with a quick dash up and down the East Ridge of Am Basteir. There was one heavy shower in the morning but the day was dry and the wind was quite gentle-ideal!
Hail showers obscuring Pinnacle Ridge
Abseiling off the 3rd Pinnacle
Descending the west ridge of Gillean
Early birds get the Pinn. May 17th
Gillian and Francis had similar agendas for their clients yesterday with the Pinn top priority. Good early starts avoided any greasy work on Mhicchoinnich and the worst weather didn’t arrive until the Pinn had been climbed.
“Yesterday Francis, James and Rebecca got cooking with a round of Sgurr Mhic Choinnich, the Inaccessible Pinnacle and Sgurr na Banachdich; only one pic and though and they don’t look that happy they definately were!”
Gillian’s party had been out with me on Alasdair the day before helping Clive knock off one of his 5 remaining Munros. Despite the wettest weather I’ve ever witnessed in the Cuillin everyone stayed warm & felt suitably deserving of Red Cuillin beers as a reward!
16 May; Dennis Silverwood adopts a continental approach to the mountain rain problem!
