Alpine day on Am Bastier Chimney. 11 January
The climbing conditions and weather in the Cuillin were perfect yesterday. Making the approach and descent in the dark Francis & I (Mike) didn’t miss a minute of it and my body is certainly letting me know today.
Looking east over Glamaig to the mainland
Approach conditions were harsh underfoot but strangely mild; I only wore a base layer right to the summit of Sgurr a’ Bhasteir (2900 feet) despite the deep drifts. Across the corrie Beads & Donnie could be seen slowly traversing beneath Pinnacle Ridge to climb Just a Boy’s Game on Sgurr nan Gillean.
Beads & Donnie below Sgurr nan Gillean
We played on a wee project for a couple of hours before descending to the foot of Am Basteir Chimney (IV,6) for probably the second winter ascent. The line is hidden from most angles but splits the North Face. The first 60m pitch had a mix of short steps with good ice and snow.
Start of pitch one
Francis then offered me the lead on the next steep pitch which I happily accepted. 10m higher, 30 minutes later and unable to find any protection the happiness had evaporated and my calves were exploding. The poorest of tricam placements held me until I had lowered back down halfway before dropping me unceremoniously at Francis’s feet. Mild consolation was the time that he, too, spent digging around the same verglassed cracks that I had explored before finding a hole in the bed of the gully above with his pick. Threading a wire through this proved the key.
Francis half-way up pitch two
The pattern of excellent climbing but awkward snow covered protection continued right to the top of the 35m pitch. Seconding it was a real pleasure. With rocks less glazed it may be far easier but I may suggest an upgrade to V,6 in the final edits of the guidebook.
The final pitch was a delight; a mix of good ice and snow with good protection to pass the 2 steep steps before breaking through a small cornice for a spectacular sunset.
Hebridean Winter Sunset
