Seasons greetings from Skye 29th December
A quick hello to let everyone know we’ve survived the storms so far, touch wood. The excellent conditions got well stripped back but a good layer of fresh white stuff arrived overnight.
Sligachan view today.
The storms & freeze thaws are due to continue so hopefully some good stuff when work starts again next week.
Southern Comfort (on ice) IV,5 18th December
The fine spell is breaking down at last so I’m very glad to have managed another long standing project yesterday.
Dawn reflections in Coire Lagan
The best ice appears to have all formed on south facing slopes so we headed into Coire Lagan where I knew of a few possibilities. Things were thinner than I expected but then a glimpse of grey ice appeared high above South Buttress and reminded me of a line I’d seen back in 1999. We carried on far enough to confirm that the bounding gully did indeed hold continuous ice before heading up.
The first 2 main pitches; we approached slightly from the right. The crux was at top of the xmas-tree shaped piece of ice half-way up what is visible.
1st Main ice pitch
There aren’t any photos of the crux steep step because I was focussed a bit too much on not falling off. Things relaxed a bit more above with a superb hidden pitch appearing 50m above.
The hidden bonus pitch.
We even had a screw belay above here.
After 5 long pitches we reached the fine narrow ridge that links up to the summit of Sgurr Dearg still 250m above us. This slowed us & entertained us considerably but finally we topped out just 100m from the In Pinn.
Views appear for the top of our new route.
Matthew Au Cheval on the finishing ridge
Looking out to the Ruadh.
Pinn rimed up.
I’ve opted for Southern Comfort as a name to honour the unusual conditions where south faces are offering better climbing than the norht faces.
White Lies, new line in ice paradise, 15th December
Firstly I should let anyone interested in doing a Winter Traverse “the holy grail of Scottish Winter routes” know that it is pretty damn good condition and the forecast ahead is good.
Looking at the back of Am Basteir today
I’m not offering but just letting folk know. I’ve got lots of projects to go for in conditions like these and today was a good start-
I followed my own advice from Monday’s Blog and went to climb the amazing looking ice on the south face of Gillean today. We did a new route that takes a line of ice right of the existing route and have called it White Lies; grade IV,5. It was 280m long so the descent was largely done in the dark.
My Skye mates Beads & Ben were great cpompany; we all shared the task of breaking trail, were all blown away with the views & all of us got plenty of time on the sharp end.
It’s great when a plan comes together!
Coir’ a’ Bhasteir at its best
Basteir Tooth looking awesome.
Ben studying possibilities; we took the main line of ice visible here but…
….this is the ice arena that greeted us when we could see the whole south face of Gillean
Ben belays Beads on pitch one; our line lies up right. The main line is White Dreams, 275 m IV,5 (2000)
Beads on the steep top step high on pitch one.
Ben’s Corner, pitch 3. This was a lot steeper than it looked with the ice fairly rubbish. Beads & I had to climb the vertical thicker ice to Ben’s left because of a big hole that appeared.
A happy Ben as Beads leads pitch 4; first time placements all the way.
Final pitch looking down the steep finish
Ben on the finishing swings
Psych!
Good to be back & great conditions 12 December 2011
A fortnight of freeze thaw conditions, with a few mental storms thrown in, has left some great climbing. Firstly a teaser- The Smear, V, which has porbably not had a second ascent since 1979, has a good start going as the pic below shows.
The Smear (V, 1979) lies below the 2nd Top of Mhadaidh.
I climbed directly up the broad West Face of Bruach na Frithe from Tairnilear which gave over 2000ft on snow.
I took a grade II line fairly directly to the summit of Bruach na Frithe on the left.
The face appears fairly featureless from below but the huge scale soon threw up route choices and plenty to concentrate the brain.
A crunchy start then short mixed band soon became well consolidated snow with accumulations of powder that never became more than a few inches in depth (so no avalanche worries). In the top 600ft (200m) I was able to take my pick of really beautiful solid steps of ice.
With calves burning it was good to finally top out a few minutes from the summit. There was a good narrow line of well consolidated neve running pretty much continuously with a complete covering of thinner snow filling in the gaps.
The wind sculpted ridge of neve.
Looking southwards these conditions appeared to be pretty uniform.
Good covering across the tops of Bidean Druim nan Ramh, 2700ft
Route possibilities were everywhere but the best looking option was White Dreams. This huge route takes a direct line up the south face of Sgurr nan Gillean from Lota Corrie and hasn’t received a second ascent.
The ice on White Dreams (IV) can clearly be seen splitting the South Face.
I carried on past Bruach na Frithe to Bealach na Lice for a close look at the north face of Am Basteir and the Bhasteir faces of Pinnacle Ridge. Although not as snowy as I’ve often seen it I’d guess the quality of ice & neve will make almost any route on these faces a good option just now. There’s a couple of better known exceptions but they could be good after todays storms.
HDQ (VIII) looking black on Am Bastier
Bhasteir faces of 4th & 5th Pinnacles; Gingini Chimney is currently incomplete but close- takes the incomplete line low on 5th Pinnacle with Forked Chimney (IV) the dark gash to its left.
The descent down Fionn Choire was one of the easiest under foot I’ve ever had and the next strorm was just building nicely as I got back.
Everything is going to look a lot whiter when things calm down on Thursday. There’ll probably be deep drifts on lee slopes to watch out for but plenty to go for. White Dreams should be getting well scoured and my choice of approach is likely to be the NE Ridge of Sgurr a Bhasteir and descending from Bealach na Lice.
If you haven’t got your guidebook yet I’ve got a stock you can collect as you arrive or get sent out to you. Check the website
Easy-View.com consolation
My trip down south was great fun until travelling back on Friday; I’d made the mistake of feeling smug at missing Thursday’s storm but we were turned back from Inverness late Friday night by snow. The delights of the extra time in Gatwick were rewarded next morning by the best arial views of Scotland I’ve ever had the privelidge to see. Here’s a selection as we approached Lochaber from the south before turning east along the Great Glen-
Clouds clear to reveal the Highlands in full winter garb.
Ben Nevis is the highest peak on the left of shot with Aonach Mor the long sunlit crest stretching rightward.
Looking east to west along the dawn-lit tops from Beinn na Lap past the Grey Corries, Aonachs, Carn Mor Dearg to Ben Nevis.
Mountaineering magic-way more fun than xmas shopping!
Matts Report
I was out on the hill with Beads again today. We had some great weather and managed to climb a new route on the North face of Sgurr a Bhasteir-250 metres of grade II climbing. It made a lovely approach to the North-East ridge of Sgurr a Bhasteir which gave us another 350 metres of good ridge climbing. It was a great day out with some phenomenal views to the Outer Hebrides and the mainland, both of which were full of snow covered hills as far as the eye could see.
Dawn light on the Northern end of Skye
Beads leading on the new route
Glamaig and the mainland
The North-East ridge of Sgurr a Bhasteir (grade I)
The Third Pinnacle, Knights Peak and Sgurr nan Gillean
Heading towards the main ridge
Snowy Skye
Matts Report
I was out with Beads yesterday on Meall Odhar (satellite peak of Sgurr a Bhasteir) we found a nice bit of easy climbing on the side of the hill and enjoyed some magnificent views of mountains, sea and snow! It started snowing at sea level last night and there is a good covering now. The hills themselves will be pretty swamped with powder and there is the beginnings of some good ice. I have taken a few photos of the view from my house-apologies for the quality but my mobile phone has my only working camera just now.
View from Sconser towards Raasay
Glamaig from Sconser
Winter is arriving!
Matts Report
It is looking hopeful for winter climbing on Skye in the not too distant future. Here are a couple of photos of the Ridge I took from Sligachan today.
Amazing break in weather for Blabheinn; November 27th
A night of mad storms with smashed windows and huge garden items thrown around left my hopes about the weather clearing seeming hollow as dawn arrived. With torrential rain & gusts knocking us off our feet, we packed into the car and headed for Blaven; my most promising option in a norwesterly wind.
Brave grins as we set off.
Within minutes the sun came out and ony one tiny hail shower caught us all day.
Wet feet at the first river crossing.
There were still big gusts so I took an unusual option (for me) of following the hopefully sheltered, central gully between the 2 tops. I’ve always considered it a bit of a purgatorial scree treadmill but seemed worthwhile on the safety front.
Warming up as we head up Great Gully
You can make out 3 laid-back towers of rock just right of the scree slope in the photo above. I’d never explored them and was delighted to find the middle one gives a thoroughly entertaining line of good scrambling for us to play on.
Steep scrambling on sun-drenched rock!
Scrambling like this is the business; the normal thigh burning pain of flogging uphill is relieved by a 2-fold combination. Firstly a slower pace is enforced because you need to carefully choose the line & holds. Secondly the concentration on not falling off over-rides most other signals to the brain!
The final wee ridge of scrambling.
Lunch with a view
After a well deserved lunch break in the sun 5 minutes of loose scree warmed us all up well before the icy blast hit us at the top. The view was spectacular & I don’t seem to have been the only one very happy with our efforts!
A bevvy of Buckleys and a Burfday Jill on Blabheinn
The Black Cuillin seemed to have lucked with all the tops clear while not a single mainland peak could be seen.
Sun & snow with the South Top behind us.
The skies got darker as we descended; not just the fact that dusk was approaching but a perfectly timed return for the heavy rain once we were racing to the pub for a celebratory beer. Happy 21st Jill!
Winter’s back; Yeha! 25 November 2011
Beinn na Caillich above Broadford.
My book launch hangover was greatly eased by the sight of lots of fresh snow this morning right down below 1000ft. It’s been very heavy showers since lunch with driving sleet & hail at sea-level battering the windows.
Before you all pack your kit & come running up to try out your new guidebooks I should warn you about some warm pulses predicted between the cold snaps for the week ahead. These could work greatly to our favour if summit level reaches say 2 or 3 degrees but could equally strip all the glorious white stuff; we’ll have to see on a day by day basis.
BOOK LAUNCH
Many thanks toeveryone who braved the wild weather to dive up to Portree last night. 45 folk on a Thursday night in November was a very fine effort and it was great to meet up with some old friends and make some new ones too. Many thanks in particular to Aros and the staff there, Donald, Dave & Lance. You can see what else is on at the Aros centre at www.aros.co.uk
Book Launch Invitation. Portree, 24th November.
Invitation.
3, Luib
Isle of Skye.
November 2011
Hello.
Scottish Mountaineering Club Cuillin Guidebook
You may be aware that the new SMC Guidebook to the Cuillin has finally been published and is now widely available. As the author, I will be giving an illustrated talk at 7.30pm in the Aros Centre, Portree on Thursday 24th November.
The talk will cover a broad spectrum including summer and winter climbing, history, geology, flora & fauna, Munros and tourism. The show will include images of the Cuillin from the book and also from my own collection.
In writing the book I have learnt a huge amount about these fantastic mountains. I hope to pass on some of the passion and the enthusiasm that the project has given me.
As someone with an interest in the Cuillin you may know others who have not have received this invitation. Please feel free to extend the invitation to them.
Signed copies of the book will be available in the foyer and the bar will be open from 7pm. The talk will begin at 7.30pm and last for about an hour followed by a chance to ask questions.
Yours faithfully,
Mike Lates
RSVP to allow us to be properly prepared. Either the above address, by telephone- 01471 822 116 or by e-mail; mike@skyeguides.co.uk
About the book.
SKYE- THE CUILLIN
MIKE LATES (2011)
This book is written for climbers but will also be useful for any walkers and scramblers planning to visit the Skye Cuillin.
Full page colour photographs show the easiest approaches and descents to the Munros and other summits of these complex mountains. These are backed up with clear concise descriptions written by author and local mountain guide Mike Lates.
Introduction sections have specific Cuillin advice including weather, navigation and safety. The eight page history section details the first conquests right up to modern day achievements. Geology, local amenities and the environment are also covered.
RETAIL PRICE £25
Excellent Winter Traverse Video
Winter bivvy
Many thanks to Simon Richardson and his fantastic winter climbing site Scottish Winter. com for bringing a well composed 18 minute Cuillin video to my attention. You can read Simon’s comments and fim-maker Iain Young’s comments about the Traverse here or click direct on the video The Cuillin Ridge- A Winter’s Traverse
Bring it on!
Alps scenery.
There was a massive rockfall on the Dru this summer and Ann-Gibbs Jordan witnessed it whilst doing the Tour de Mont Blanc before she came over to the Cuillin. Here’s some pics she took; thanks Ann.
You can see the pale scar on the RHS of the Dru. Verte to the left.
Looking up the Leschaux Glacier to the Grand Jorasses.
Dent de Geant on the RHS; Grand Jorasse on the left.
I’ve also remembered that Ann was particularly sad to hear that here climbing hero Walter Bonatti had passed away while she was on the tour; she never met him but liked the coincidence that she was on one of Bonatti’s favourite mountains. RIP, Walter.
November Newsletter & Feedback
You can view our latest newsletter here
Many thanks for all the book orders that have come through already; they should be with you by Monday at the latest.
Some feedback- “Fantastic issue … especially with all the links to other photos of activities up there.” Pete B. USA
“Hi Mike book looks great would luv signed copy. You hauled me, ‘old man of Bolton’ along the Ridge about 3 years ago, with 40 y.o. son Phil. Highlight of my walking life!” Chris B.
“I’ve been really enjoying the blog this year, checking in every couple of days. It’s making up for the fact I didn’t make it to Skye in 2011. I climbed with Gillian in 2010 along Pinnacle Ridge with my son Tom, then 15. A memorable day for both of us, and one that launched us into more technical rock climbing together (on local sandstone outcrops round here like Harrisons Rocks as well as indoor walls) … we’re planning to return, the whole family, in May 2012. I’d love to organise a winter adventure before then.” Rupert W.
Big Chill
Well I got that well wrong; I’m off for a Ridge Traverse Sunday/Monday instead! Cool but windless and clear: full moon coming too.
Is all this wet going to go hard very fast? Fingers x’d.The cold blast that has hit New York will be with us before the weekend. Saturday looks like the best day to play! Here’s my favourite Unysis forecast- Click
Some scenic dry tooling practice earlier this week; will it pay off?
Yosemite
Matts Report
Here are some photos of Yosemite valley and the climbing out there. Enjoy!
El Capitan in the sunshine (approx 3000 feet of rock from top to bottom)
And in the rain!
The Lost Arrow Spire
Belaying for aid climbing can be slightly tedious!
My friend Tony posing in front of Half Dome
Matt posing in front of Half Dome!
The first pitch of “Lurking Fear” an aid route on El Capitan
Lower and Middle Cathedral Rocks
Tony leading the second pitch of Lurking Fear
Looking up Yosemite Valley; the top of half dome visibile on the right and Mt Watkins is in the distance on the left side.
Racing the haulbag
High up on “Royal Arches” A nice multi-pitch VS
Fighting hard with Generator Crack. This an off width climb-too large for fists but not large enough to fit inside. It is also a lot steeper than it looks.
Climbing a more straightforward crack!
Dry Tooling comp; Ice Factor 8th October
I was coaxed well out of my comfort zone into the intense and impressive world of indoor dry tooling competitions yesterday. Climbing indoors, using leashless ice axes and competetive climbing; any single one of these would surprise many who know me well and they would have enjoyed watching my flailing antics! Luckily I’m not proud, really enjoyed myself, learnt a lot and met some great new folk.
Gillian on the last of the 3 ice routes; that bulge at the top hurt a lot but was nothing compared to the overhanging routes for the dry-tooling routes.
Gillian was my mentor and got us onto the ice first; all went well with 3 first time successes and I was enjoying myself despite aching forearms. I hadn’t realised that I’d started on the easiest routes of the 15 and things unravelled rapidly after this and I only topped out on one more. Gillian’s arms lasted far longer and she showed both grit and skill to top out on 3 more coming in 5th place in the female category.
The finals gave a chance to admire some supreme athletes with a combination of incredible strength combined with amazing gymnastic ability. The dutch girl who won seemed to climb at least half of the route whilst upside-down performing figure of 4’s and 9’s. She and 2 of the male finalists tried desperately to get high enough on a hanging log to reach the final clip but all in vain. Boyfriend Denis showed us all how it was done with a highly ungymnastic manouvre of humping the log and pretty much mantle shelfing on the heads of his axes to huge and deserved applause.
I’ve got no photos I’m afraid (fingers didn’t have strength for the shutter) but the STS site should have a great display soon- http://www.scottishtoolingseries.co.uk/scottish-tooling-series-2011/
Your feet have to stay in the boxes as well as your tools
Always Sunny on Skye?
Matts Report
I enjoyed some dry weather and beautiful views before heading to Yosemite a month ago and returned to find more of the same! It took us all day to do Sgurr Mhic Chonnich and Alasdair mainly because the views were so photogenic.
Bla Bheinn peeking above the cloud
Bla Bheinn in full view
Looking towards An Stac and the In Pinn
Brockenspectre
Sgurr Alasdair
Final Traverse for 2011? 1/2 October.
Mike’s report.
After September storms October dawned peaceful and dry just on time for George Gill and friends Steve & Ted. The Aquaxplore early bird landed us safely below Gars-bheinn which we reached comfortably in 2 hours
The East Ridge of Gars-bheinn; a stunning way to start
We the had entertaiment in the form of Skye MRT doing a helicopter exercise whilst being filmed for Highland Rescue for a couple of hours around Coire a’ Ghrunnda.
Rescue 137 lowers George & Jonah into Bealach a’ Garbh-choire
From Mhicchoinnich onward peace and quiet and warm sunshine gave perfect conditions, possibly even a bit warm on the superb steep scrambling up An Stac Direct to the foot of the Pinn.
Cool shadows from An Stac Direct
Mist descended around us between Banachdaich and Ghreadaidh but then opened up just in time for sunset as we arrived at the bivvy spot on Ghreadaidh.
Prince eat your heart out- we’ve got Purple Mist
Rarely have I had such a perfect combination of warmth, windless and stunning lightshow for such a long period. Admittedly whisky enhanced, the colours of the sunset and frequency of shooting stars made it an evening to remember.
Sunset over Loch Eynort
An inconsiderate shower at dawn enforced a lie-in but we were on the hoof again by 9am. Across the mainland more and more peaks appeared out above the clouds while the Western Isles were bathed in sunshine.
Mist shrouds An Caisteal while mainland peaks appear behind the Northern Cuillin
Dry rock ensured fast progress but needed us all to dig deep.
Ted romping up 2nd Top of Mhadaidh
Balancing along the roof-top of An Caisteal
4th team member and driver Phil timed it perfectly to meet us at Bealach na Lice. With the hotel in sight and only 2 peaks to go it was a shock to realise it would still be 5 hours before we’d be sharing a beer with him.
Tree surgeon Steve aiding up through The Mouth on Am Basteir
After the Tooth and Am Basteir we were relieved to dump our sacks before the final victorious rise to Gillean.
George celebrates while Ted soaks up the sun.
Stormy still but warming up; 28 September.
While the rest of the UK has an Indian summer the north-west of Scotland continues to be blasted by strong winds.
I was out with John Seal on Sunday when we bumped into past clients David Gray and Nick. It was our pleasure to help David link Dubh Mor with Alasdair to complete his entire collection of Munros.
Beautiful colours and light on Blaven on Monday morning.
On Monday I was on Clach Glas with Ann Gibbs Jordan who was making a return trip from Australia after last years’ fun on Pinnacle Ridge. We were fair battered by winds whenever we were on the Glen Sligachan side and happy to be roped together.
Rainbow over Garbh-bheinn with Marsco behind.
Sunny lunch on top.
We dodged the traditional Blaven climbing because the wind was so wild in the first narrow nick. Instead we dropped below the Great Prow and up Scupper Gully to gain the Normal Route to the summit of Blabheinn.
Top of the mighty Great Prow
On the same day Gillian managed to get Peter Oglesby’s team up the Pinn reporting no problem with the wind whatsoever; just goes to show how varied conditions can be.
Today Annn and I used Sgurr an Fheadain to dodge the wind; low and central in the corrie it remains sheltered despite ripping winds across the higher peaks.
Cuillin Guidebook arrives at last; 22 September
Slainte Mha! Hopefully available for sale in about a weeks time.
Guides at play; Neist Point.
Francis, Gillian, Rich & I took the rare combination of fine weather & no work to climb together on Sunday. Not many pics I’m afraid but my aching body tells me I had a great workout. Francis & I did Security Risk, Wish You Were Here and Venture Capital. Gillian & Rich climbed Midas Touch, Gritstone Reminscence and Shocks ‘n’ Stares. Francis & Rich then both cleanly top-roped the bold and balancy All the Small Things, E5 6b, (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=137044)
It criss-crosses the wall left of Venture Capital above the huge flake and was first led by Ali Fulton last year. Comparing the guys at the crux is an interesting study in body position.
Francis & Rich at the crux moves; staying in balance to reach the thin crack out to their right is very delicate
Francis low on the 3 star route Venture Capital, HVS 5b
Almost forgot to mention the whale that Rich spotted and the golden eagles being mobbed by buzzards.
Ridge Traverse success again; 15/16 September
Congratulations to Graham, Jonathan & Dave on successful Ridge Traverse on Thursday and Friday will Gillian as their guide. Less than 2 weeks after her previous success Gill commented on there being significantly less light at either end of the day.
They had 2 very different days weather-wise. Cloud-free laidback climbing on a very long hot first day (12.5hrs), was followed by an early start and a heavy shower arriving before lunch on day 2 (11hrs).
Final packing before the boat trip.
Taking on final water for the long hot haul ahead
Graham gives a wave from half-way up the Pinn
Early start to make the most of dry rock
Dave makes the off-balance move down into Tairneilear
Victorious team on Gillean in the mist
Mid September- a topsy turvy period.
Fitting in work between the tail end of hurricaines has been challenging but the quality of the Cuillin has been proved by some excellent adventurous spirit.
Ben on Pinnacle Ridge,
Robyn & Ben crossing where the Gendarme used to sit on the West Ridge of Gillean
Regulars Dave & Jo Windle came across last weekend despite Katia’s lashing tail. Clach Glas was very wet on Friday but superb fun and made the beers extra well earned!
On Saturday even Neist Point, driest place on Skye let me down but an optimistic drive across to Flodigarry came up trumps. We climbed the superb Newspaper Taxis (Severe) before going for Buoy Racer. This excellent 50m VS was the scene of a near-miss for me in 2003 so exorcising the demons added an extra dimension. The heavy showers finally decided to arrive when I was well commited and then huge waves decided to cover the boys down below.
Dave “the Wave” starts up Buoy Racer VS
Jo tops out as the sun comes out; just too late!
Sunday to Tuesday were total deluges but Gillian still managed to get Ian Rear safely onto Ghreadaidh & Mhadaidh. Wednesday dawned bettter than expected and Gillian & Ian snatched an early ascent of the Pinn before the rain caught them on Mhiccoinnich. The wind direction was more worrying around An Dorus with those descending giving tales of 80mph gusts. I took an unusual step of approaching Ghreadaidh by the deep slot of Eag Dubh as Sara & Nome’s first Cuillin scramble. Again great spirit was shown and was rewarded by a complete lull once we broke the crest. Next the clouds thinned and the sun even showed willing as we made it to the summit, admittedly much to my surprise.
Topping out of Eag Dubh (Moderate)
And finally today was the reward for everyone’s patience with a Cuillin day to remember. An early start got us up to the Pinn first and perfect conditions allowed everyone to really enjoy the experience far more than anyone expected. Gillian is out attempting a Traverse with Graham Batram’s group. They’ve safely reached the overnight bivvy and hopefully they’re enjoying the moon and shooting stars but I think they may be flat out after a huge day.
Helen, Nome, Simon, John & Mark top out on the Pinn; 15th September
An abseil to remember with the Inner Hebrides behind
and all before the hourdes arrived!
A Nome at home!
Autumn colours and busy business; Early September
September is one of my favourite months; a combination of rich colours, rapid changes and anticipation of the first snows.
Magnificent rowan at Torrin today
Ignoring consistently awful forecasts we’ve all been busy and stayed largely dry. Gavin and Nigel finally conquered Sgurr a Ghreadaidh with me on Thursday; 3rd time lucky!
Friday saw the tail end of hurricaine Irene blow through but didn’t stop Tim, Sarah & me traversing Clach Glas to Blaven and with only 30 seconds of rain all day. On Saturday we started up Sgurr an Fheadain in the damp but, by the time we topped out, the crest was dry and views to the east magnificent. An Caisteal is a superb section of the Ridge with narrow edges and big jumps before an exposed descent to Tairneilear.
Sarah going for it along the top edge
Tim takes flight
Completing Chris’s main Ridge Munros on Am Basteir on Sunday
Claire looking forward to traversing Clach Glas in the sun today…
high on the climb up……
and below the Imposter
Congratulations to Carole on a successful Ridge traverse with Gillian as her guide over the past 2 days. Hopefully some pics to come.
“What a brilliant day, Francis was excellent and very patient. I’m extremely stiff & in need of a zimmer frame but who cares after a fantastic trip” was the text I received from David after his big day out from An Dorus to Bruach na Frithe yesterday.
And finally best of luck to Matt over the next 3 weeks on his trip to Yosemite for some big wall aiding. He has been working hard for the past few weeks but also beasting himself in the gym. Most importantly he’s been practising erecting his portaledge and got it down to under 10 minutes whilst suspended in space; it took him nearly an hour on the ground first time!
Misty week on the Misty Isle late August 2011
For the first time this summer we’ve really had some traditional Skye mist clinging to the whole island but the mountains in particular. High winds on Monday kept us off the tops but the brief was teaching ropework for scrambling.
The Lochain Traverse between Loch Lagan and the foot of Eastern Buttress is a really fun Grade 3 expedition crossing the West Buttress of Sgumain.
Mel and Andy at the start of the Lochan Traverse which follows the obvious horizontal fault above Mel’s rucsac.
Although low in the grade some of the moves are quite tricky, especially in the wet. Lots of little steps no more than 10m in length are linked by easier but exposed traversing.
High along the Traverse
This is ideal for seeing how just the rope (with no slings or gear) can be used to add a high level of safety to the team. An ideal short option for a wet day!
Today dawned clear which caught me surprise. Gill brought her walking partner & friend Layne for a Cuillin christening and hopefully the Pinn. Mist rolled in all too soon and plans for showing the ladies my favourite part of the Ridge, An Stac Direct, faded fast. No small amount of talent coupled with enthusiasm despite damp rock raised my hopes and the mist cleared just as we reached the head of the An Stac screes. 400 feet of high adrenalin scrambling followed and gave a perfect rehearsal for the Pinn itself.
Happy scramblers on An Stac Direct (Grade 3) with Rum and Eigg behind
The queues had dissipated and we were able to just motor on up despite the mist drawing in around us once more.
Looking forward to the Pinn despite the damp.
Summer returns; 22-26 August
Last Sunday had heavy showers everywhere on the island apart from on the reliably dry crags at Neist. Phil Hall has escaped Reading and booked a refresher day for leading and belaying skills to use back on the crags in North-west of England. An intense day culminated in a fine lead of Tatties (Severe) which is the easiest of the trio- Haggis (HS), Neaps (VS) & Tatties (S).
TRAVERSE 22 & 23 AUGUST
Next day dawned infinitely better and rapid changes were made to Traverse plans with Gary Came. The boat eventually dropped us ashore beneath Gars-bheinn at midday leaving 9 hours to reach our bivvy. Just as he had promised me Gary turned out to be both very fit and very at home on the Ridge despite being a Cuillin virgin.
About to board the Bella Jane
A man in his element on Gars-bheinn!
King’s Chimney
Sexy sunset out over Ghreadaidh
Day 1 Timings-
Boat to Gars-bheinn-1hr 45mins, to reach TD Gap-2hrs, to finish In Pinn-3hrs, to summit Ghreadaidh via water collection-2hrs.
Day 2 Summit Ghreadaidh 8am, Bealach na Glaic Moire 8-50am, Bealach Harta 9-45am, Bruach na Frithe 11am Gillean 1pm
Day 2 dawned cool and overcast; not great for photography but great conditions for moving fast. Naismiths Route was surprisingly damp. More disconcerting was a large hold missing just at the crux. I took a more cautious approach than normal using the large spike runner out to the right. Gathering ourselves together once more we cruised to Gillean in a total Ridge time of 12 hours.
Gary looking back at where we’d come from!
After a days rest I teamed up with Seamus and Orii once more to finish their trip on a high. They were most surprised to find themselves climbing the In Pinn on what turned out to be the hottest day of the fortnight. After a spot of lunch they then did superbly to climb the short west end of the Pinn too.
Seamus abseiling with Coire Lagan behind.
Gillian was also guiding at the Pinn and Robert Carr looks a very happy chappy!
North South split this week; mid August.
Mike’s report.
A souwesterly airflow off the Atlantic has left peaks at the south end of the Cuillin shrouded in mist all this week while the north end has been clear pretty much the whole time. This split is not unusual and is always worth considering when deciding what to climb.
Jeremy romping up the Pinn in the mist on Monday which was wet on the windward side but dry in the lee
Someone has unearthed these museum pices from the rocks at the fot of the Great Stone Shoot!
Tuesday was a washout but Wednesday turned out fine once more. Showers were threatened so I hedged my bets. Eventually I decided it was going to stay dry and plunged Seamus & Orii straight in at the deep end by bringing them across the narrow arete on the West Ridge of Gillean. It’s one of those places where your eyes naturally get drawn to the yawning void below and is widely considered as more terrifying than ascending the In Pinn.
Seamus concentrating (or is it praying?) intensely on the West Ridge.
Orii’s smile of genuine happiness; now list the reasons why!
Today is a first for me on XC weather with zero wind predicted. The midgies are definitely on the increase at last but nowhere near the worst I’ve ever seen. Even considering a swim in the marble pools I’d spotted on Friday would have been unthinkable in some summers gone by. We did 2 pools; the first was a narrow deep channel with a marvelous jacuzzi effect and the second had a beautiful deep smooth white clean bowl sweeping out below the fall.
Marble pool in Allt Aigean near Torrin
The jacuzzi channel
Wet but wonderful windows; Friday 12th
Mike’s report.
I’ve been for a play with a friend Ian who I’ve not seen since school in Carlisle. Introducing him to the Cuillin and showing him what I do was a pleasure although he may not have been so impressed if the weather hadn’t laid on such a great “windows in the mist” display. The rain had become pretty intense and we opted for Sgur nan Each rather than Clach Glas once we hit the ridge. 20 minutes of exciting scrambling led to the summit where we paused for lunch and a giggle about the view inside the cloud. As we stood up to leave I pretty much yelped for Ian to turn around as a tiny window of view appeared over his shoulder. For the next 10 minutes we were treated to an ever-changing 360 degree vista that almost made you dizzy.
Ian Brown gets the reward
Looking back along where we had come from
The other noticable effect was the feeling of going from black and white to colour.
The Main Ridge stayed firmly cloaked with the exception of Sgurr na h-Uamha. Eigg, Mallaig, Knoydart, Beinn Sgreithall, Red Cuillin, Plockton, Applecross, Torridon and Raasay all popped out nicely.
At the East Top an eagle swooped past us close on the tail of a very scared (presumably) raven and was floating over Belig just seconds later. We indulged in one of the finest remaining scree runs I know to descend north into Coire Aigean, the Deep corrie.
Scree run into Coire Aigean with Belig behind
The major attraction in this rough desolate glen is the river with its stunning marble pools; I must come back and swim these soon before the first snows arrive.
Marble pools in Allt Aigean
Many thanks to Skye for laying on the display and to Ian for such great company; hope the 3 Chimneys lays on the quality for you tonight.
Quality quote
“The Isle of Skye:
Conclusive proof that sometimes God is just showing off…”
Many thanks to The Skye Guide- http://www.theskyeguide.com
Raasay viewed from Luib; photo Jennie Lates
