New Route and Stunning Inversion
Firstly confirmation that the crest of the Ridge is not in ideal condition for a full winter traverse.This statement is extremely misleading however as there have rarely been such perfect snow conditions for exploring the Cuillin in winter. Neve (hard snow) is continuous from below 200m right to the crest with extensive cover on all but the narrowest sections.
An interesting analysis went on between Matt and I this evening after one of the most beautiful days that either of us had ever had in the mountains. Both climbers at heart we were initially disappointed to find our objective very dry and unwintery despite there being loads of snow and temperatures well below freezing.
Hose-pipe Ban, III,4
We had enjoyed wearing crampons from well below the 1000ft mark in Coire a’ Tairnielear. The temptation to skip the climb was definitely strong but we reasoned that exploration of the intriguing gully would be fun even if we failed. It was fun, a well protected exercise in chimneying past 2 wedged chockstones with axe use minimal but both glad of the crampons.
Above the crux
It probably warrants III,4, we’ve not named it yet and would only give it a single star at most.
From a cloudless start the mist had rolled in while we climbed and we sat eating lunch and realised the hoar crystals were growing on the rocks around us. It was tempting to bail out but we had a mission to find out what condition the crest of the Main Ridge was in so pushed on up towards Bidean Druim nan Ramh. The mist above suddenly became yellowish and we got excited at the prospect of breaking up through it. One of my favourite little short-cuts onto Bidean is climbing the gully between the south-west and central peaks. It was banked out with hard neve and led to the “Gates of Heaven”, a tunnel looking out into the yellow mist with the peaks just emerging beyond.
Matt in the Gates of Heaven and the emerging view of the Ridge below.
I lost track of time after that as every step we took seemed to lead to even more incredible vistas. Brocken spectres are circular rainbows caused by your own shadow cast on the mist below. They are pretty special but quite common in the Cuillin; today they formed just one part of the mindboggling array of effects that went on around us. I climbed a pitch above the Gates to the summit of the south-west top and the “Cottage Block”.
My spectre central in a white halo (possibly called the glory?)
Mist enveloped us as Matt arrived but then sank ever deeper revealing more by the minute. A shaft of light passing through the Gates appeared to be projecting our Brocken spectres on the mist whilst the triple peaks of Bidean cast their shadows below. The northern peaks of Bruach na Frithe, Sgurr a’ Fionn Choire, Am Basteir and Sgurr nan Gillean were speckled black and white against the pure blue sky and a weir of mist tumbled between Gillean and Basteir.
Brocken Spectre and a shaft of light shining through the “Gates of Heaven”
The analysis we discussed as we descended down 2000 feet of hard snow was just where such a day sits in Scottish winter climbing. In conclusion, as so often with the Black Cuillin, there simply is no easy pigeon hole; the whole experience just felt very alpine but definitely unique.
Sgurr Thuilm sitting proud.
