Neve Nirvana, Traverse (possibly on) and Routes Galore.
The sharp freeze yesterday has consolidated the vast quantities of old snow superbly. We were on Blaven today and Matt & Simon were on Gillean reporting the same ideal underfoot conditions. The guys did Maclaren’s Chimney IV,5 (having read the description on yesterdays blog) which was in great condition and Matt will post something soon.
Friends Vickie and Lisa had a bit of spice added to the Munro bagging this holiday as we opted for the obviously continuous line of good snow up Great Gully that splits the tops of Blabheinn (Blaven).
Our route in red and climbs we passed.
We donned crampons at the huge boulder in the corrie below and discussed the avalanche risk considering the overnight precipitation. Reasoning on the fresh layer being comparatively thin we agreed to keep an eye on the bonding in the windslab.
Testing the snow stability
All went well and the accumulations never got deeper than a few inches. The gully is a classic grade I, never more than about 45 degrees but steep enough to concentrate the mind. Vick opted for a rope while Lisa prefered to see what her heart monitor could get up to which was 175bpm compared to 155 max on previous outings this holiday for those interested.
A cold wind and snow greeted us as we reached the top and the main Ridge disappeared but a few minutes wait at the summit rewarded us with peaks popping out of the mists, brocken spectres and the sun glinting off the sea far below.
The Main Ridge refused to clear so we cramponed happily back down to about 500m before the wonderful neve ran out.
Elgol Peninsula
TRAVERSE- I was amazed at the quantity of old snow that was left on the summit. Implications for Ridge traverses were the first thought and my suspicions confirmed tonight when Matt reported that the back of Am Basteir looked like a continuous line of neve from col to the summit. With cold forecast until Tuesday this weekend could well be the best conditions for a Traverse so far this season; admittedly a very different opinion from my ground opinion yesterday but on top is really the only place to assess things properly. A free down-load of tips is available on the website- http://www.skyeguides.co.uk/Downloads/SkyeGuides_TheWinterTraverse.pdf
CLIMBS- We also passed numerous mid-grade climbs that were in good condition. Descriptions either in the ‘96 SMC guidebook or reproduced here-
Escape from Colditz III looked good as a starter and South-East Buttress Gully 210m II/III above looked a superb follow-up.
Escape from Colditz
South Buttress Gully 210m II ** (2010)This is the large gully immediately to the left of Central Pillar. A good route with an easy 30m ice pitch leading to the main fault line. Three small steps gave well protected mixed climbing higher in the route.
Those wanting mixed climbing will enjoy Birthday Groove or Virgo both IV,5 and anyone after a struggle Maclaren’s Lament
McClaren’s Lament 60m V,6 * (2007)
A short and very entertaining route some 70m up the gully from Scorpion. Finishes on the huge terrace which gives an easy walk off.
1. 15m Take an obvious leftward rising break to a large flake belay. This is directly below a large deep chimney.
2. 25m An awkward step off the belay flake gives entry to the deep chimney. Fun moves lead behind two massive blocks to a confined ledge below the final impasse. Excellent gear protects some ridiculous contortions in a battle to the top.
3. 20m Break out of the cleft. Finish easily up to a broad terrace.
