McLaren`s Chimney
Matt went into Coire a Bhasteir with Simon yesterday and we decided to see what routes looked best on the Bhasteir face of Sgurr nan Gillean. Pinnacle ridge was looking very impressive and certainly dominated the skyline as we approached.
We encountered very firm snow from the foot of Pinnacle ridge all the way to the foot of McLaren`s Chimney which made the walk an absolute pleasure. We got a good view of Am Bhasteir, the summit ridge was covered in snow and the north face had a good covering of hoar frost and rime ice.
The chimney itself was a lot of fun. It divides neatly into two pitches with an atmospheric cave belay half-way. It should be noted that rucksacks are best left at the bottom of the climb unless you want to engage in some exciting manoeuvres.
It is easy to traverse off and descend into fourth/fifth gully or join up with a selection of other routes to continue to the summit of Gillean.
