Pinnacle Ridge Sat 26 March; testing despite the thaw.
Great weather at the end of a poor week. Chris Duckett and I did Pinnacle Ridge. Put crampons on half-way up 3rd pinnacle, 2 abseils from top of there then 3 pitches onto Knight’s peak, good snow for downclimbing then 4 more pitches up to the summit of Gillean. A couple of heavy snow showers added a wintry feel to what had started as a spring-like day. 9 hours with little break. Hopefully more wintry still tomorrow after a clear-sky night. Off to look for northern lights,
mike
Clach Glas; not in deep snow (Sat 19th)
Heavy overnight on Friday snow clad everything above 500m in a thick layer of fresh snow. I’ve put a warning of “may be impossible in deep powder” in the guidebook description of the Clach Glas Traverse and so it proved. Approaching by Sgurr nan Each there were optimistic moments as progress was pretty rapid.
On Sgurr nan Each
This changed rapidly with aspect as soon as we started the rise from Bealach Clach Glas with everything swamped and no way of knowing what your foot was going to land on.
Our (not very) high point on Clach Glas
Pristine Ridge, Pinnacle & Ptarmigan. Friday 18 Feb
Despite the thaw low down the Main Ridge has remained in excellent condition for fast progress. We climbed up the An Stac screes on good stable snow with no need for crampons but needed them less than 100 feet higher up.
We hardly touched rock at all from there to the base of the Inaccesible Pinnacle some 400 feet above.
The Pinn was majestic in a garb of ice flutings as it rose into the mist but didn’t entice us to tackle it one bit.
A dream descent on perfect snow into Coire na Banachdaich followed. A final bonus was stumbling across 3 ptarmigan in their white plumage. They disappeared in the snow patches only to reappear as they crossed the rocks.
Alpine skills introduction, Thurs 17 Feb; a traverse of Sgurr a’ Ghreadaidh.
Peter did a complete Ridge Traverse with Gillian as his guide last year and has his focus on the big 3 alpine peaks of Eiger, Matterhorn & Mont Blanc this year. He has asked for a course giving an introduction to the skills he will need and today certainly covered most of these areas.
Pristine snow in An Doras
For starters we covered crampon and axe work on simple slopes as pristine snow led us easily to An Doras. Only one small step was needed to gain the slopes of Sgurr a’ Ghreadaidh above. We found wind-blasted hard snow on the Coruisk side with a complete contrast of softer powder on the lee slope above Glen Brittle.
Sgurr a’ Ghreadaidh’s huge bulk behind us.
We moved together throughout the next 1.5km as far as Sgurr na Banachdich. Generally conditions were excellent but the knife-blade crest of Ghreadaidh was very taxing and required extreme concentration.
Yawning drops focus Peter’s concentration
Peter took to crampons superbly but also realised why the rocky ridges of his alpine objectives will need to be clear of snow.
The narrow crest section finally comes to an end.
15 Feb 2011; Good snow build-up on the Ridge crest
Tom, Sam (the tango boys) & I were out again and their final wish was granted with clear skies and views of the whole Ridge. Despite a good dump of fresh snow we made good time up the Upper Rake of Mhadaidh again thanks to the consolidation of the previous wet stuff on Sunday night.
Sam takes a breather.
We played on some steep climbing for practice before heading onto the summit of Mhadaidh once more. The difference in conditions in 3 days was phenomenal with compative swift easy progress and stunning vistas. Strong wind whipped us with spindrift but, yet again, this short section of Ridge provided one of the most memorable climbs of the whole course.
Up the narrow rib with Coruisk behind
Looking back to my belayers after crossing the slab pitch
Descending into An Doras
Sunshine on Skye; Tues 15th Feb
After a few days of viewing the inside of clouds it was good to see clear skies today. The views across to the mainland and over to the Hebrides were simply stunning and left me wishing for a better camera to capture it all. We also saw a couple of Golden Eagles soaring above the Elgol peninsular. Just a fantastic day for taking in the scenery.
South summit of Bla Bheinn in the background
Cairn climbing: Always use a rope for this dangerous sport!
Looking towards Beinn na Cro and Beinn Dearg Mhor.
Valentine’s Day 2011; South Buttress Gully (III) Blaven.
Hard to say why today’s route felt so good; it was probably the overnight transformation to superb snow and ice from low levels that caught me so much by surprise. The hidden gully has amazing rock architecture throughout the entire 250m length. The climbing pitches are thought provoking but well protected. III/5- always escapable but not a push-over by any means. Mike
Winter Mountaineering on Sgurr nan Gillean
SUNDAY 13 FEBRUARY.
Matt was out with Rich, Tom and James today. They went for the classic traverse of Sgurr nan Gillean, going up the West Ridge and down the Tourist Route. This is a great mountain day, taking in some short pitches of climbing, a brilliant exposed knife edge and an abseil. Your concentration has to be absolute for a good couple of hours but the reward is enjoying one of the best easy winter routes in Britain.
Climbing up Loose Chimney towards the pinnacles (The chimney was well frozen and not so loose!)
Crossing the pinnacles. There was just enough visibility to maximise the exposure, but Rich seemed to enjoy the view.
Negotiating the exposed crest at the top of the Tourist Route
James on his second ever abseil. Great effort!
Mike was also out on Sgurr nan Gillean today on Just a Boys Game (III,170m) with Sam and Tom. Thin low down, the ice got better after the 2nd pitch with quality conditions towards the top. Without good ice the line is sparse on protection and commitment felt pretty high.
Mike heading up towards 4/5 Gully with Sam and Tom
Just a Boys Game, III.
Pitch 4
12 February. Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh by the Upper Rake (Grade I)
Temperatures rose rapidly today after a cold morning making for a misty approach to eventually find the freezing level at 900m just as we hit the crest. Crampons had been needed from half-way up the amphitheatre for a mixed pitch in the rock band and on the neve above. Some unusual sculptures remain in the old snow I climbed back in November (see Gaugers gully report) but it is really just left in patches now. The crest to the summit of Mhadaidh made up for any impatience for excitement as Rich, Tom & James got their first taste of Cuillin exposure. It probably took us 50 minutes to reach the summit, a section which is less than 10 minutes in dry summer conditions. Icy groves lead to a narrow crest, an 8m vertical downclimb, some slabby traversing, another groove and finally the summit where the guys announced it was their first Munro.
The narrow rib between the 3rd & 4th tops of Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh.
The Glen Brittle side was clear of mist and views out to Rum & Canna showed that the sun was coming. The drift of snow would have let us walk out of An Dorus onto Ghreadaidh (instead of the usual 6m step) but will have to wait for another day.
Looking across the Thuilm Ridge of Mhadaidh into Coire na Creiche below.
Sunshine and Snow on Bla Bheinn
Matt took Beth up Bla Bheinn today. We had a footwork coaching session at the bottom of South Buttress before ascending Great Gully. There was no scree showing and the snow was reasonably firm despite the sun beating down on us. The top three hundred feet was excellent neve which bodes well for conditions on the higher crags such as the Bhasteir face of Sgurr na Gillean.
Looking down the Great Gully
At the top we popped our heads over to see the entire Cuillin Ridge spread out before us. The air quality was excellent and it felt like you could reach out and touch the mountains; it also made the drops look enormous.
The northern end of the Cuillin Ridge lying the far side of Glen Sligachan
We visited the North top first and then enjoyed the exposed col and the short crest leading to the South top.
Poise and elegance above the precipice! The awkward step is behind Beth.
Climbing the awkward step from the col to the South top. This can look intimidating from below but the difficulties are very short-lived.
More from the Winter Climbing Meet. 3-7 Feb 2011
Our merry band had some more adventures in the Cuilin yesterday with teams were out on the North end of the ridge and on Sgurr Thearlaich.
In Pinn from the Great Stone Shoot
Snowfields of Coire a`Bhasteir below Pinnacle Ridge
Triumph on Sgurr nan Gillean!
Easy ground on The Deadline (III,4) North face of Am Basteir
North Chimney, III,5 or grade I if banked
Southern Cuillin and Coruisk viewed from Bidean.
3 days of fun and more to come: Photos from the Winter Climbing Meet
Friday was stormy 
Saturday was mild low down but good on top.
West Ridge of Gillean for some,
Bruach na Frithe for others,
BC Buttress of Thearliach, IV,5 in mega nick.
Andy’s first ever outdoor route; good eyes!
And an exciting descent.
Gillian on Gillean
Doctor’s Gully
Grade II my butt!
Creag Meagaidh Ice
Matt met up with Gillian early on Friday morning at Spean Bridge. We had our sights set on climbing The Pumpkin (300m, Grade V,4). The ten vehicles already at the car-park convinced us to set a fast pace on the walk in and we managed to catch a few teams on the way through.
Gillian near the top of the first pitch.
There was a team just starting on The Pumpkin as we arrived at the bottom but their fast pace persuaded us to set off behind them. The ice was in fantastic condition giving great protection and providing good axe placements from every swing.
Gillian leading the second pitch
After five enjoyable pitches of climbing we topped out at about 2.30pm. We needed a swift bout of navigation to get off the summit plateau and then had an enjoyable walk back through The Window and down the Glen.
Looking back at the Post Face of Creag Meagaidh
Alpine day on Am Bastier Chimney. 11 January
The climbing conditions and weather in the Cuillin were perfect yesterday. Making the approach and descent in the dark Francis & I (Mike) didn’t miss a minute of it and my body is certainly letting me know today.
Looking east over Glamaig to the mainland
Approach conditions were harsh underfoot but strangely mild; I only wore a base layer right to the summit of Sgurr a’ Bhasteir (2900 feet) despite the deep drifts. Across the corrie Beads & Donnie could be seen slowly traversing beneath Pinnacle Ridge to climb Just a Boy’s Game on Sgurr nan Gillean.
Beads & Donnie below Sgurr nan Gillean
We played on a wee project for a couple of hours before descending to the foot of Am Basteir Chimney (IV,6) for probably the second winter ascent. The line is hidden from most angles but splits the North Face. The first 60m pitch had a mix of short steps with good ice and snow.
Start of pitch one
Francis then offered me the lead on the next steep pitch which I happily accepted. 10m higher, 30 minutes later and unable to find any protection the happiness had evaporated and my calves were exploding. The poorest of tricam placements held me until I had lowered back down halfway before dropping me unceremoniously at Francis’s feet. Mild consolation was the time that he, too, spent digging around the same verglassed cracks that I had explored before finding a hole in the bed of the gully above with his pick. Threading a wire through this proved the key.
Francis half-way up pitch two
The pattern of excellent climbing but awkward snow covered protection continued right to the top of the 35m pitch. Seconding it was a real pleasure. With rocks less glazed it may be far easier but I may suggest an upgrade to V,6 in the final edits of the guidebook.
The final pitch was a delight; a mix of good ice and snow with good protection to pass the 2 steep steps before breaking through a small cornice for a spectacular sunset.
Hebridean Winter Sunset
Birthday Groove, 11th January
Matt was out with Simon and Tony again today. We went with expectations for amazing weather, great views and quality climbing and weren’t disappointed. The South Buttress of Bla Bheinn had caught our attention yestrerday.
South Buttress
Birthday Groove (IV,5) is the left hand of the two corner lines in the centre of the buttress. The initial pitches were great fun and provided a mix of chimneys and chock-stones covered by a liberal layer of powder snow that, when cleared, revealed some good neve and frozen turf.
High in pitch 2
The views just got better as we got higher; here looking out to Kintail
As darkness approached we got closer to the top of our route and the climbing got steadily steeper and harder.
Pitch 4
Finally we were only eight feet from easier ground when a heavily verglassed chimney put paid to our ascent. We made the difficult decision to retreat back down the route in three long abseils. It was gut-wrenching to get so close to the top and be able to see the easier ground. However we’d had a wonderful adventure on a quality route in a dramatic setting and there were plenty of smiles during our trip down the mountain!
Matt with wide-eyes!
Skye Ice; 10th January
After our Ridge adventures Matt, Tony and Simon opted for an easier day today on Blaven. Mike’s suggestion that Escape from Colditz (grade III) was in condition was confirmed by Colin Threlfall and his great blog pictures from Sunday-http://colinthrelfall.wordpress.com/ The route turned out to have an easy approach and full of character for such a small crag with a mix of snow, ice and even some rock gear for added confidence.
The escape tunnel.
Above this we climbed a great new 2 pitch corner (grade I/II ) that led to the south-east ridge and an easy walk-off.
Our new line.
Alpine Adventure on the Cuillin Ridge
Matt set out with Simon and Tony early on Saturday morning to see if (my!) rumours of incredible neve on the ridge were true! We experienced a certain amount of trepidation when we saw that the snow line was 500 metres lower than two days ago. However we decided to have faith and press on to the South-East ridge of Sgurr Nan Gillean, where we were rewarded with a view of the entire Cuillin ridge.
Sadly the rumours of quality neve on the crest of the ridge turned out to be just that. Fortunately the amazing situation, incredible views, sunshine and enjoyment of the climbing more than made up for this.
The ridge seemed truly Alpine in appearance and appropriately an alpine approach of moving together provided maximum enjoyment in continuous but safe progress. Am Bhasteir had a massive covering of snow that made progress easier than in summer conditions. There was even a soft landing below the bad step!
We made good progress along the ridge despite the occasional bout of wading and arrived at the An Caisteal cave just as dark fell. There was a lot more snow than we expected in the cave so we decided to make our way past Bidean Druim nan Ramh to another bivouac site at Bealach na Glaic Moire. The 10ft deep drifts on the Bealach put paid to this plan so we found an alternative site to eat and lay our heads down at.
Sunday morning found us picking our way down the slopes of Coir a Mhadaidh and admiring the amazing views all along the ridge. There is an amazing amount of snow on the Cuillin and all the gullies seem complete (even Waterpipe Gully) and while it is mainly powder just now the mixed climbing should be in good condition and gullies should hopefully respond well to the upcoming melt-freeze cycle…
McLaren`s Chimney
Matt went into Coire a Bhasteir with Simon yesterday and we decided to see what routes looked best on the Bhasteir face of Sgurr nan Gillean. Pinnacle ridge was looking very impressive and certainly dominated the skyline as we approached.
We encountered very firm snow from the foot of Pinnacle ridge all the way to the foot of McLaren`s Chimney which made the walk an absolute pleasure. We got a good view of Am Bhasteir, the summit ridge was covered in snow and the north face had a good covering of hoar frost and rime ice.
The chimney itself was a lot of fun. It divides neatly into two pitches with an atmospheric cave belay half-way. It should be noted that rucksacks are best left at the bottom of the climb unless you want to engage in some exciting manoeuvres.
It is easy to traverse off and descend into fourth/fifth gully or join up with a selection of other routes to continue to the summit of Gillean.
Neve Nirvana, Traverse (possibly on) and Routes Galore.
The sharp freeze yesterday has consolidated the vast quantities of old snow superbly. We were on Blaven today and Matt & Simon were on Gillean reporting the same ideal underfoot conditions. The guys did Maclaren’s Chimney IV,5 (having read the description on yesterdays blog) which was in great condition and Matt will post something soon.
Friends Vickie and Lisa had a bit of spice added to the Munro bagging this holiday as we opted for the obviously continuous line of good snow up Great Gully that splits the tops of Blabheinn (Blaven).
Our route in red and climbs we passed.
We donned crampons at the huge boulder in the corrie below and discussed the avalanche risk considering the overnight precipitation. Reasoning on the fresh layer being comparatively thin we agreed to keep an eye on the bonding in the windslab.
Testing the snow stability
All went well and the accumulations never got deeper than a few inches. The gully is a classic grade I, never more than about 45 degrees but steep enough to concentrate the mind. Vick opted for a rope while Lisa prefered to see what her heart monitor could get up to which was 175bpm compared to 155 max on previous outings this holiday for those interested.
A cold wind and snow greeted us as we reached the top and the main Ridge disappeared but a few minutes wait at the summit rewarded us with peaks popping out of the mists, brocken spectres and the sun glinting off the sea far below.
The Main Ridge refused to clear so we cramponed happily back down to about 500m before the wonderful neve ran out.
Elgol Peninsula
TRAVERSE- I was amazed at the quantity of old snow that was left on the summit. Implications for Ridge traverses were the first thought and my suspicions confirmed tonight when Matt reported that the back of Am Basteir looked like a continuous line of neve from col to the summit. With cold forecast until Tuesday this weekend could well be the best conditions for a Traverse so far this season; admittedly a very different opinion from my ground opinion yesterday but on top is really the only place to assess things properly. A free down-load of tips is available on the website- http://www.skyeguides.co.uk/Downloads/SkyeGuides_TheWinterTraverse.pdf
CLIMBS- We also passed numerous mid-grade climbs that were in good condition. Descriptions either in the ‘96 SMC guidebook or reproduced here-
Escape from Colditz III looked good as a starter and South-East Buttress Gully 210m II/III above looked a superb follow-up.
Escape from Colditz
South Buttress Gully 210m II ** (2010)This is the large gully immediately to the left of Central Pillar. A good route with an easy 30m ice pitch leading to the main fault line. Three small steps gave well protected mixed climbing higher in the route.
Those wanting mixed climbing will enjoy Birthday Groove or Virgo both IV,5 and anyone after a struggle Maclaren’s Lament
McClaren’s Lament 60m V,6 * (2007)
A short and very entertaining route some 70m up the gully from Scorpion. Finishes on the huge terrace which gives an easy walk off.
1. 15m Take an obvious leftward rising break to a large flake belay. This is directly below a large deep chimney.
2. 25m An awkward step off the belay flake gives entry to the deep chimney. Fun moves lead behind two massive blocks to a confined ledge below the final impasse. Excellent gear protects some ridiculous contortions in a battle to the top.
3. 20m Break out of the cleft. Finish easily up to a broad terrace.
Skye Winter Conditions, January 2nd
I (Matt) went into Coir’ a’ Mhadaidh with Francis today. We had managed to convince each other that conditions were going to be thin but positive so burdened ourselves with huge amounts of rope and assorted spiky bits of metal. We started our walk in the dark but as dawn arrived it became clear that the recent thaw had stripped more snow and ice than we’d hoped. We went to the foot of South Gully but it was incomplete and running with water.
Glaic Moire face; North and South Gully lead to either end of the horizontal bealach. Descent is by the continuous snow-line left again.
All the snow that we crossed was very firm and there are still extensive patches on the slopes and in the easier angled gullies. Hopefully the next week will bring some more snow and a good melt-freeze cycle to improve the situation…
The Smear (V) living up to its name. It has probably never had a second ascent.
Doug Scott before the first ascent in 1979 (photo Ginger Cain)
Ice Climbing: Coire a’ Bhasteir, 31st Dec
Today Matt went for a day out with Paul to find some ice climbing. It was warm at the Sligachan Hotel but we kept the faith and set off. On reaching the snow-line we were glad to find that some of it was firm. The most solid looking line of ice was situated in a gully directly below Pinnacle Ridge. There was a large amount of avalanche debris below the ice-fall, possibly 3/4 feet deep, that had come from 4/5 gully.
The climbing, though short, turned out to be very pleasureable with the ice inhaling front-points and picks.
We managed another two lines of ice further round the coire but had to beat a retreat after receiving a thorough soaking from the last one. The upcoming freeze should come soon enough to provide good climbing conditions.
Coire Na Banachdich, 28th December
I went for a trot up to Banachdich Gully this morning to investigate snow and ice conditions. It was a slightly delayed start as I listened to the coverage of a certain game of cricket before leaving. (This is Matt writing, not Mike, if anyone is feeling confused by this comment)
Banachdich Gully
The Glen Brittle road is completely clear now and the snow line on the Cuillin has retreated to about 1500 feet, though there are still patches of ice clinging on in various sheltered spots right down to sea-level. The snow pack was very firm in places and in other places such as the bottom of the gully and stream beds I was almost thigh deep. It was perfect snow for glissading and reasonably solid to walk on given careful route choice.
Main ice pitch of Banachdich Gully
There was a lot of ice and snow around the Coire and all the gully lines above 1500 feet that I saw here and elsewhere along the ridge seemed complete. In addition there is still stacks of ice hanging on in all the drainage lines. The melt is in full flow right now but if the freezing level drops on Thursday and stays down then we could be in for a right treat…
Waterpipe Gully flanked by Coire a Tairneilear and Coire a Mhadaidh
Cloud over Bruach Na Frithe
Small is Beautiful, 22 December
Today Mike and myself explored Ruadh Stac, a mountain which rises a mighty 493 metres (1617 feet) above sea level. This is not the most popular mountain on Skye but it is certainly worth visiting on a clear day for its spectacular views of the main ridge, Clach Glas, Bla Bheinn and the Small Isles. However we were not visiting primarily for the views but to investigate the Allt Teanga Bratlan and the gullies on the South East face of Ruadh Stac for any climbable ice.
Looking towards the North end of the ridge
From the lay-by at the head of Loch Ainort we admired the style of Neil from Torridon as he scampered up the prominent waterfall above the road. This left us feeling suitably inspired to find some ice of our own, so stopping only to take photos and investigate cunningly disguised patches of bog we made our way to the Allt Teanga Bratlan. Dropping down to 130 metres above sea-level we were pleasantly surprised to see reasonable amounts of ice, unfortunately we were unpleasantly surprised to see a plunge pool or two barring our way. After a short debate over who weighed more we managed to overcome these obstacles. Arriving in a bay we discovered a slabby line of ice on the right and a much steeper climb on the left. We ventured onto the right hand option and enjoyed the delights of ice climbing at an amenable grade II/III in the sunshine on Skye in December!
Mike leading the second pitch
After this little adventure we headed off onto the side of Ruadh Stac to investigate the most prominent gully line on the South East face of the mountain. We found a continuous line of snow and ice from bottom to top, going at about Grade I, with a short 40 foot step that looked to be about Grade V. Given the thin state of the ice we summoned up various excuses and traversed round this part.
Underneath the Grade V section
We gained some bonus entertainment in the rest of the gully grappling with holes in the snow, a mini bergschrund and the unexpected discovery of some small pools. Finally the climbing came to an end and we topped out on Ruadh Stac to be greeted by the most spectacular panorama of the entire ridge in winter glory.
It was a perfect end to a spectacular Skye day: exploration, adventure, ice, sunshine and some of the best views imaginable…..
Beinn Bahn 18th December
With the Cuillin being dry and low-level ice gone it was time to travel in search of some high altitude turf. Francis called Martin Moran who confirmed that we were barking up the right tree and a rendezvous of 6am in Lochcarron organised. A good dump of overnight snow put the rendezvous in doubt but, having both successfully made that I made the mistake of thinking the hard part was over.
Lochcarron at 6am Saturday.
Cutting a long story short we learnt, the hard way, about climbing in Coire nan Fhamair on the biggest baddest cliff on Beinn Bahn:
1. Leaving the car at 7am is too late; despite feeling like an easy 2hr approach it was already 10-30 when we reached the bottom of the Great Overhanging Gully.
2. “Popping up the turfy start pitch” is not a good mental approach; it only looks an easy angle because the next overhang is so ludicrous.
Out of time when only 20m off the ground is pretty hard to take after a 3am start but this cliff doesn’t do consolation. We salvaged sanity by returning over the summit plateau for great views into Coire na Poite and the back of the Cioch Nose.
Coire na Poite; Mad Hatter’s, V, is the obvious large gully, complete but thin. Ice on the face is more prominent on the Cooler VI than Silver Tear V.
Hopefully Francis has had more joy on his adventures with Martin and Murdo today.
All start again, 16 December
With another icy fortnight forecast there is plenty to look forward to for any visitors in the festive period. Crampons are advisable for any walks above the 300m mark.
I took a trip up to the Storr on the hope of the Scamadal ice-falls having survived the thaw but every last lump has dropped off sadly.
SCAMADAL 16/12/2010
More positive was the look of Storrvegan and the gullies splitting the face that will remain fun for as long as they remain empty of deep powder. I’m trying to get a comprehensive list of these and their grades from Mark just now. Many are Mick Fowler “classics” done in all sorts of dodgy conditions and ideal for the adventure lover. At least one is grade III and, as such, will be holding more of the marvellous neve that any old snow has now become.
THE STORR TODAY WITH THE OLD MAN DWARFED BY THE MAIN CLIFFS.
The 24 hour thaw yesterday has stripped the large neve patches back in the Cuillin so the Ridges will be even more bare now. The positive thing is that the fresh snow forecast is likely to stick more to the rocks than the old snow so more likely to build up than blow away.
SLIGACHAN VIEW TODAY.
New Route and Stunning Inversion
Firstly confirmation that the crest of the Ridge is not in ideal condition for a full winter traverse.This statement is extremely misleading however as there have rarely been such perfect snow conditions for exploring the Cuillin in winter. Neve (hard snow) is continuous from below 200m right to the crest with extensive cover on all but the narrowest sections.
An interesting analysis went on between Matt and I this evening after one of the most beautiful days that either of us had ever had in the mountains. Both climbers at heart we were initially disappointed to find our objective very dry and unwintery despite there being loads of snow and temperatures well below freezing.
Hose-pipe Ban, III,4
We had enjoyed wearing crampons from well below the 1000ft mark in Coire a’ Tairnielear. The temptation to skip the climb was definitely strong but we reasoned that exploration of the intriguing gully would be fun even if we failed. It was fun, a well protected exercise in chimneying past 2 wedged chockstones with axe use minimal but both glad of the crampons.
Above the crux
It probably warrants III,4, we’ve not named it yet and would only give it a single star at most.
From a cloudless start the mist had rolled in while we climbed and we sat eating lunch and realised the hoar crystals were growing on the rocks around us. It was tempting to bail out but we had a mission to find out what condition the crest of the Main Ridge was in so pushed on up towards Bidean Druim nan Ramh. The mist above suddenly became yellowish and we got excited at the prospect of breaking up through it. One of my favourite little short-cuts onto Bidean is climbing the gully between the south-west and central peaks. It was banked out with hard neve and led to the “Gates of Heaven”, a tunnel looking out into the yellow mist with the peaks just emerging beyond.
Matt in the Gates of Heaven and the emerging view of the Ridge below.
I lost track of time after that as every step we took seemed to lead to even more incredible vistas. Brocken spectres are circular rainbows caused by your own shadow cast on the mist below. They are pretty special but quite common in the Cuillin; today they formed just one part of the mindboggling array of effects that went on around us. I climbed a pitch above the Gates to the summit of the south-west top and the “Cottage Block”.
My spectre central in a white halo (possibly called the glory?)
Mist enveloped us as Matt arrived but then sank ever deeper revealing more by the minute. A shaft of light passing through the Gates appeared to be projecting our Brocken spectres on the mist whilst the triple peaks of Bidean cast their shadows below. The northern peaks of Bruach na Frithe, Sgurr a’ Fionn Choire, Am Basteir and Sgurr nan Gillean were speckled black and white against the pure blue sky and a weir of mist tumbled between Gillean and Basteir.
Brocken Spectre and a shaft of light shining through the “Gates of Heaven”
The analysis we discussed as we descended down 2000 feet of hard snow was just where such a day sits in Scottish winter climbing. In conclusion, as so often with the Black Cuillin, there simply is no easy pigeon hole; the whole experience just felt very alpine but definitely unique.
Sgurr Thuilm sitting proud.
Winter Traverse Watch
All eyes are now carefully studying the forecast for the next few days. Conditions are very close to being ideal for the Holy Grail of British Mountaineering- a Winter Traverse of the Cuillin Ridge.
Neil Mackay on the successful Traverse 30 November 2010.
Quoting from the SMC guidebook text I have just proof read over the past 24hrs-
In good conditions this is probably the greatest single climb to be had in Britain. Good conditions are rare with one period a season possibly above average since it was first achieved. The good news is that frequency does not seem to be decreasing and the internet now gives aspirants unprecedented access to forecast and condition reports. Anything but good quality neve on the crest makes progress incredibly slow and physical. Tom Patey suggested that a heavy dump of snow with little wind, so that the crest isn’t stripped, is the first stage. A minor thaw right to the summits followed by a sharp freeze and good weather (an easterly wind and high pressure) for the next few days is the ideal scenario. Opportunities must be grasped quickly before sun or rain strip the crest back to bare rock.
We now have the makings- a thick covering with a minor thaw that is estimated to have reached above the tops. Cold weather is forecast but there is a slight hiccup- the normally dream situation of a cloud inversion is predicted.
Summer Temperature Inversion
The more technical name for this is a temperature inversion which means the glens will be cold but the tops may be warm! How warm is the key factor; my feeling is that, above all this snow, the damage likely to be caused will be minimal and clear night skies will put a good solid crust in place within a night or two. Personally I would wait and see what Saturday looks like but be ready to go Sunday. Below a cloud inversion the weather is grey, damp and murky so don’t get put off! For more advice study the brief download from this website- http://skyeguides.co.uk/Downloads/SkyeGuides_TheWinterTraverse.pdf
Skye Report 9 December 2010
I’m still providing a weekly conditions report for UKC and will also post it here.
A good thaw has started today with temperatures up to about 8 degrees. All the snow recently needs this to settle it in and if the predicted freeze returns next week there could be the most incredible conditions for any number of Skye objectives. I’ll keep regular updates of temps, rain, snow levels etc through the next few days.
The Cuillin action of last week was rounded off nicely by hearing of the successful Traverse on 29 and 30th November by Neil and xxxx. This is the earliest Traverse I’ve heard of in a season, possibly the first ever before the turn of the year. All backed up with Jamie Hageman’s superb photo of the guys abseiling from the Basteir Tooth that won pic of the week on UKC- http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=160721
JAMIE’S SELF-PORTRAIT (taken at the same time)
Heavy snow started falling again last Friday and has pretty much put the Cuillin out of reach since so attention switched to the Storr and the ice in Coire Scamadal. Robin Clothier & Doug Hawthorn found new objectives a bit thin but enjoyed the 3 pitches on Scamtastic V,5. This line repeatedly seems to form first.
SCAMTASTIC, pitch 2.
On Wednesday Doug was back with Ewan Todd who had bravely driven through from Aviemore. Doug pointed Ewan at the unclimbed line of ice left of Silverpine (2010) that ended half-way up the face. Ewan belayed to the steep top icicle. Ultimately they opted against attacking it (the belay!) direct and Doug took a weaving line left then right which required him to be “reasonably confident at getting runners/ belays sorted.” Ewan finished out right with a long pitch over the top.
FA (First Ascent) Greymane wall, possibly V,4. The 1st belay was on the large icicle beneath the lowest climbers feet.
An excellent selection of shots and video are on Colin’s Blog- http://colinthrelfall.wordpress.com/
More Cuillin Action. 2 December 2010
The strong team of Pete Macpherson, Martin Moran and Francis Blunt were up on the Basteir Tooth today making an external finish to Shadbolt’s Chimney. Previously climbed by Dave Ritchie and Mark Shaw in 2002 by the through tunnel (IV,5) Pete went around the outside variation finish at grade VII,7.
SHADBOLT’S CHIMNEY TODAY
Storvegan. 1 December 2010
One of the most stunning natural lines on Skye, Storvegan gains and climbs the roof of the mighty central wall (250m) of the Storr. It was finally climbed by Martins Moran and Welch in January 2010 and graded VI,8.
An alpine start was rewarded with alpine type scenery but only 40mins from the car.
Luckily only a small pepparing of snow and ice started as the sun hit the walls above the first pitch
After clearing a snow-filled chimney Francis reached the wide crack in the roof before the crux. The Camalot 5 close before the commiting moves seemed ideal. As Francis pulled on the first couple of tiny hooks I noticed it walk sideways; a brief mental juggle and I opted to tell him rather than let him carry on. Calmy reversing he buried a bomber bulldog to replace the cam, had a few words with himself, then put the crux sequence together first time.
I hung on the cam to remove the bulldog before my turn. Stretch on 40m of rope & the prospect of prussicking focused me well, making sure I got my leashed tools in the right order first time. Some good ice then well consolidated steep snow led to a belay below a long chimney.
Francis found the chimney well protected but hard before running it out to a turfy belay. Turf for the next 60m took me up to a fine arete of snow and amazing sunset over the western seaboard.
One more tiny rock step and easy slope led to the summit cairn. A fantasy route come true for me; thanks Francis.
Post Script- In correspondence with Martin Moran about grades (see Incredible History post above) Storvegan is possibly slightly easier than he thought technically so VI,7 may be a better guide to future aspirants. 3 stars certainly.
