Traverse Success 21/22 April
Mike’s report.
Huge congratulations to Willi Moore on achieving his lifelong ambition of a Traverse. Scott Webster is joining the Skye Guides team this season and was along to help. Willi’s company, the weather and the climbing were all a pleasure. Great start to the season!
Only time for a quick photodownload in this hectic schedule I’m afraid- enjoy.
Traverse Training; Clach Glas and Blaven, 18 April.
Mike’s report.
Willi has done lots in the Cuillin before but wants to put it all together in a Traverse this week. The weather window that looks best is Thursdy & Friday so we used Monday’s fine weather to practice techniques on the classic Clach Glas/Blaven Traverse, starting by the east ridge of Sgurr nan Each.
Looking at the Cuillin Ridge from Sgurr nan Each
Stage one over it was time for Clach Glas and the meat of the route.
This small but dramatic peak is known as the “Matterhorn of Skye”
Narrow top-edge scrambling for a concentrated hour leads to the summit.
The infamous exposed descent of the Imposter, the summit block of Clach Glas.
The exposed descent continues to the Putting Green before the North-East wall of Blaven is breached by some tricky rock pitches.
Mike concentrates while Willi takes in the view out to Sgurr nan Gillean 
Climbing the final 80 foot chimney in short pitches.
Looking back at our route from the summit of Blaven.
Bla Bheinn
Matt’s Report
Bla Bheinn is sometimes translated as the “warm mountain” and it certainly lived up to its name today. Temperatures were perfect with hot sunshine and a cool breeze that made for ideal walking conditions. I was walking to the North Summit with Carol and Malcolm and we saw plenty of other people but sadly not the hoped for golden eagle sighting. The forecast looks good for the next few days so hopefully plenty of people will be out enjoying the delights of the Cuillin. I have put pictures of the almost the whole ridge below to maybe inspire anyone thinking of coming up. There is no significant snow anywhere on the crest so axe/crampons are not needed.
The ridge from Caisteal a` Garbh Choire to Banachdich
The ridge from Banachdich to Bidein Druim nan Ramh
An Caisteal to Sgurr nan Gillean
Final Tops!
Matt’s Report
I went out with Grandfather/Grandson team of Pete and Dan today to collect Pete’s final two tops-Knights Peak and the Basteir Tooth. We opted for going over Pinnacle ridge to Knights Peak, which was great fun and we got the added excitement of wet rock from the 3rd Pinnacle onwards.Pete entertained us with tales of soloing up the Inaccessible Pinnacle in his (slightly) younger days and this and other Munro bagging stories passed the time nicely until we found ourselves on top of the Basteir Tooth. The light rain had not relented all day but that did not dampen Pete and Dans delight at being on top and they even kept their humour as we indulged in the caving exploits required to reach the Kings Cave Chimney abseil. Thanks for a grand day out!
The final top of 227…
The atmospheric Kings Cave Chimney
Elgol Entertainment
Matt’s Report
I had an action packed day with Duncan, Hazel, Connor and Holly today. They had completed a long and successful day on Sgurr nan Gillean yesterday so today was a total change of pace on the Elgol sea cliffs. We bouldered,climbed on three different crags and introduced some skills necessary for lead climbing.
Getting to grips with slab climbing
It was a great day out and everyone pushed their comfort zones as we climbed in windy conditions above a crashing sea!
Hazel looking relaxed on “Fertility Right”.
I went over Bidean Druim nan Ramh with Beth yesterday and everything seemed in good shape after the winter. All the abseils are in place at the moment with tat in good condition.
Cold but Classic Cioch, 12 April
Mike’s report.
Firstly many congratulations to Martin Goddard on completing his Munros on Sgurr Alasdair today. After getting a lift into the glen with us he found his own way up from Coire a’ Ghrunnda onto the South-West flank so avoiding a pergatorial slog up the Great Stone Shoot. Slainte!
Chris and I aimed for a quick ascent of the Cioch which was staying below the clouds. It was still looking pretty dry as we reached the sweepng slab below and 2 rope lengths took us to the top. This iconic obelisk was where Sean Connery famously had his sword fight in classic 80’s film The Highlander.
Our route climbed the corner (Slab Corner, Diff) below the Cioch
Mist envelops us as Chris belays in the shelter of the mighty Cioch
Waiting on top for the mist to clear proved to be a misjudgement as a painful hail and snow squall caught us as we made the awkward descent from it’s summit.
Keeping the head down as the hail battered us!
As a result the smooth rocks on the narrow Neck had added excitement.
Chris doing the body slither up the Neck
The weather stayed dry but misty as we continued on up Eastern Gully, over Sron na Ciche, onto Sgurrr Alasdair and down the Great Stone Shoot before finding the sun below the cloud again.
Scree running down the Great Stone Shoot
In Pinn and Mhic Choinnich
Matts Report
Martin and I were walking up the west ridge of Sgurr Dearg getting pelted by rain, sleet and hail. I was hoping that the promised improvement in the weather was going to materialise before we reached the In Pinn. The hail showers started to drop off and as we got ready at the bottom of the climb they had stopped completely. The rock was quite wet but this did not slow Martin down at all and he sauntered casually up the East Ridge despite not having done any climbing for 20 years! Right on cue the sun made an appearance as we arrived at the top and we then got a view across Coire Lagan. This encouraged us to head for Mhic Choinnich and we were rewarded by some beautiful dry rock that made the scramble to the summit an absolute pleasure. The walk down in bright sunshine was quite pleasant as well-at least 3 seasons of weather in one day I reckon.
Martin enjoying the crux of the In Pinn
Mhic Choinnich, Thearlaich and Sgurr Alasdair
Looking back to the In Pinn
Summer’s back with a stunning day above the clouds.
Mike’s report:
After an undeniably savage week, even by Skye standards, a warm, windless but damp misty day seemed a pleasant prospect. Tom had been given a day in the Cuillin as his 40th birthday present. His only clue as to what may come was a distant view of the jagged skyline from Coruisk yesterday.
After only half an hour of walking we popped out above the cloud with the vertical walls of Sron na Ciche towering above and Tom began to get the hang of what he was in for on his round of Coire Lagan.
Looking down to where we had emerged from the mist and the walls of Sron na Ciche
But Tom is a very fit Kiwi and equally light on his feet. We reached Sgurr Sgumain in little over 2 hours and our proposed route to reach the In Pinn was laid out beautifully for us to admire.
Our next objective Sgurr Alasdair with Sgurr Mhicchoinnich beyond.
The Inaccessible Pinnacle stands proud on the left with the rest of the Cuillin Ridge leading off in the distance.
Kitted up and strapped on Tom was ready for the ride with Alex at the helm.
On Alasdair, highest point on Skye at 993m.
Alex on the final downclimb of Thearlaich
Bombing along Collie’s Ledge
Ignoring the drop on the fin of the In Pinn
Abseiling off with Rum Cuillin in a sea of mist beyond.
Final view of the Pinn
And dropping back into the mist
Fantastic day out with one happy client and 2 happy guides looking forward to a grand season ahead.
Respite from the Gales!
Matts Report
The weather has finally relented and we were treated to a lovely calm and warm day. I went over the four tops of Sgurr a Mhadaidh today with Beth. This section of the ridge has a little bit of everything; slabs, towers, knife edges, perfect gabbro and plenty of exposure in ascent and descent. There are also plenty of nice spots to stop and enjoy the view from! The amount of snow on the ridge has reduced massively and there was none on the crest but there are still extensive snow fields on the Coriusk side of the hills.
Looking towards Bla Bheinn
Impeccable ridge climbing technique!
Excellent climbing on the second top of Mhadaidh
Ben Nevis News
Dispatch received from Mike who is working out of the CIC Hut on Ben Nevis. The warm conditions have left gaps in some of the classic ice routes and Point 5 gully sounds as though it is thin. The skies have started to clear so hopefully that will stay the same overnight for a good frost and lead to better conditions over the coming days. Mike was on Ledge route with Frank today.
Frank with Tower Ridge, Observatory Buttress and NE Buttress in the background.
Winter Skills in Fionn Coire
Matts Report
I was out with Tim and Nina today introducing them to basic winter skills in preparation for their attempt on Mt. Blanc later this year. We had an entertaining time walking into the wind and rain for a while but it was quite sheltered from the wind high up in Fionn Coire. We found a good variety of firm and soft snow so that we could practice moving around all types of terrain on the way up and down the coire. The snow-melt was increasing as we came off the hill today and I expect the hills will be looking quite bare in a day or two. There will be plenty of patches of snow along the ridge for quite a while yet though.
Going up the hill….
And down again!
Full Skye Winter Experience on Thearlaich; 14th March
After a week of heavy snowfall and strong winds it was time for Matt and me to find out what had been given to us by the gods of winter climbing. Deep drifts were a feature but we stuck to our guns and aimed for the first winter ascent of Gully E on Sgurr Thearlaich near the top of the Great Stone Shoot. This is thought to be the line taken by Charles Pilkington’s party on the first ascent in 1887.
A Dachstein Mitt day
Matt with the In Pinn behind.
On finally reaching the climb the weather gods decided that another hour or so of blizzarding would give us more of a challenge. While I froze slowly Matt excavated good protection and dived out of the spindift avalanches to belay on the left edge. I continued by the buttress and avoided returning to the gully for as long as possible but was finally forced back in. Swimming up steep powder snow for the next 20m was more like climbing on Ben Nevis than the usual Cuillin experience but I finally reached the crest of the Ridge as the sun came out once more. Overall the route we followed was probably grade III,4.
The blizzard kicks in as Matt reaches the crux.
And now enjoying his belay jacket to the full!
Deep powder at the top of Gully E
Mike rigging the abseil with the sun coming back onto Loch Brittle way below
We didn’t follow in Pilkington’s steps to the summit, opting instead for a long abseil back to the Stone Shoot and our real reward- a thousand foot bumslide back to the corrie below where hot afternoon sun reflected off the snow and the vistas out to the Hebrides were of the usual astounding high quality.
From L-R Sgurr Mhicchoinnich, Thearlaich and moon above Sgurr Alasdair. Our bumslide tracks can be seen in the Stone Shoot.
Sublime lighting over Loch Lagan looking out to the Outer Hebrides
Mad Winds even for Skye; 10 March
The storms continue and with even more ferocity today. The house windows are being lashed by hail, rain and seaweed! Here’s just one wee spindrift flying past Luib on the loch.
Busy day in Glen Brittle
Matt’s Report, Friday 4 March
There were plenty of walkers and picnickers out enjoying the spring weather in Coire na Creiche today. Conditions were idyllic by the fairy pools and it was almost tempting enough to have a quick swim under the arch. After considering this plan for at least a second Andy and I decided to stick to Plan A and go for a scramble. We went up Sgurr an Fheadain on the left hand spur, which is a nice grade 2 scramble with a short approach. Initially it all felt quite unfamiliar without the comfort of crampons and an axe but we soon got into a rhythm. The second half of the crest provides some great quality rough rock and we enjoyed popping onto the summit to see clear skies and sunshine. We also saw Brocken Spectre today, though this has been occurring so often on the ridge this winter it almost seemed common-place!
Nearing the summit, Brocken Spectre on the right.
Looking along the ridge connecting Sgurr an Fheadain to Bidein Druim nan Ramh
Snow Fun on Ghreadaidh!
Matt’s Report, Thurs 3 March
I was out with Andy today, climbing the Eag Dubh (Black Notch) on Sgurr a Ghreadaidh. The warmer weather has made the snow contract in the gullies, leaving ridge like features to climb up. As the snow is up to ten feet deep in places it makes the snow ridges feel quite exposed, which is an unusual feeling when you are in the depths of a Skye gully! The ridge is a good mixture of ice, snow and rock at the moment, giving a very alpine feel to the crest. There is still a fantastic depth of snow in An Dorus, giving a simple step down into the gap instead of the usual steep scramble.
Approaching the Eag Dubh
Andy adopting unorthodox gully climbing tactics
And more conventional tactics higher up
Alpine conditions again; NW Face of Ghreadaidh. Monday 28 Feb
Our line on Diagonal Gully, 1200 feet, Grade II, marked in red;
The doglegs low down were to avoid big bergshrunds (holes!) that have formed with the thaws since the heavy snow fell in November. Mike
Very good snow-ice in Thuilm Right-Hand 600 ft, grade II. Sun 27 Feb.
We climbed the right hand of the obvious gullies leading to the summit today. 
Mike– A sharp approach from the Fairy Pools up steep grass, scree then through the defending rock band led us to the terrace that splits the upper & lower sections of these obvious fault lines in 2 hours. Once reached the old snow was in superb condition and gave 200m of easy but physical climbing on the front points of our crampons. We moved together throughout but took breaks for photos and calves to recover!
The route has superb character becoming increasingly enclosed……
….before emerging 100m from the summit
Views of the Ridge and out to the Hebrides weren’t too shoddy either…
Pinnacle Ridge Sat 26 March; testing despite the thaw.
Great weather at the end of a poor week. Chris Duckett and I did Pinnacle Ridge. Put crampons on half-way up 3rd pinnacle, 2 abseils from top of there then 3 pitches onto Knight’s peak, good snow for downclimbing then 4 more pitches up to the summit of Gillean. A couple of heavy snow showers added a wintry feel to what had started as a spring-like day. 9 hours with little break. Hopefully more wintry still tomorrow after a clear-sky night. Off to look for northern lights,
mike
Clach Glas; not in deep snow (Sat 19th)
Heavy overnight on Friday snow clad everything above 500m in a thick layer of fresh snow. I’ve put a warning of “may be impossible in deep powder” in the guidebook description of the Clach Glas Traverse and so it proved. Approaching by Sgurr nan Each there were optimistic moments as progress was pretty rapid.
On Sgurr nan Each
This changed rapidly with aspect as soon as we started the rise from Bealach Clach Glas with everything swamped and no way of knowing what your foot was going to land on.
Our (not very) high point on Clach Glas
Lunar Corona
Matt’s Report
Last week the sun has been undergoing an intense period of solar flare activity, this apparently increases the chances of seeing the Aurora Borealis. (The northern lights are caused by cosmic particles from the sun colliding with the atmosphere and interacting with the magnetic fields at the poles)
I headed out late last night to see if there was going to be a show, sadly the cosmic particles were refusing to cooperate fully! There was a brilliant full moon which was obscuring any potential light shows. We did see some white stripes across the sky for a while (possibly just clouds but they were very picturesque) and there was also a beautiful corona round the moon. This is caused by light refracting through high altitude, thin clouds scudding across the moon. Apparently a lunar corona is seen as a harbinger of bad weather, presumably because the cirrus that cause the corona are often the the start of a frontal system. The best photos of the corona I could manage are below.
Pristine Ridge, Pinnacle & Ptarmigan. Friday 18 Feb
Despite the thaw low down the Main Ridge has remained in excellent condition for fast progress. We climbed up the An Stac screes on good stable snow with no need for crampons but needed them less than 100 feet higher up.
We hardly touched rock at all from there to the base of the Inaccesible Pinnacle some 400 feet above.
The Pinn was majestic in a garb of ice flutings as it rose into the mist but didn’t entice us to tackle it one bit.
A dream descent on perfect snow into Coire na Banachdaich followed. A final bonus was stumbling across 3 ptarmigan in their white plumage. They disappeared in the snow patches only to reappear as they crossed the rocks.
Gullies, Ridges and Sea-Cliffs
Matt’s report.
WEDNESDAY 16th
Dan and I ventured into the Great Gully on Bla Bheinn, I have been up here a few times in the last week and this has given me plenty of time to look around at new route possibilities. This time I could not resist investigating a route on the left hand side of the gully. We found a line at grade II that weaved around a lot of steep ground but did take in a couple of nice steeper steps.
Dan Mackenzie down-climbing the short gully to gain the col connecting the north and south summits of Bla Bheinn on his first winter day out.
THURSDAY 17th
Beth and I explored the Flodigarry area yesterday, trying to combine fishing and climbing activities. This is a stunning part of the Island with the wonderfully shaped landscape of the Quirang dominating the skyline. I managed to sacrifice another portion of fishing gear to the sea-gods but success (and a fish supper) will surely come on another visit!
Looking north from Flodigarry
Looking back towards the Quirang
FRIDAY 18th
I continued the Alpine skills course with Peter today. We traversed Sgurr nan Gillean going up the Tourist Route and down the West Ridge.
A view of Clach Glas from low on the Tourist Route
On only his second winter mountaineering day out Peter looked relaxed and comfortable on the mountain and conditions meant it was pretty fast going.
Abseiling off the West Ridge of Gillean
The freezing level has been up and down and with a cold moist wind blowing there is some fantastic hoar and rime developing on the hills. There is some powder lying on top of the rock and old snow that requires some caution but, overall, conditions are good, winter scenery and low avalanche risk compared to the mainland make Skye a good bet for the weekend.
Alpine skills introduction, Thurs 17 Feb; a traverse of Sgurr a’ Ghreadaidh.
Peter did a complete Ridge Traverse with Gillian as his guide last year and has his focus on the big 3 alpine peaks of Eiger, Matterhorn & Mont Blanc this year. He has asked for a course giving an introduction to the skills he will need and today certainly covered most of these areas.
Pristine snow in An Doras
For starters we covered crampon and axe work on simple slopes as pristine snow led us easily to An Doras. Only one small step was needed to gain the slopes of Sgurr a’ Ghreadaidh above. We found wind-blasted hard snow on the Coruisk side with a complete contrast of softer powder on the lee slope above Glen Brittle.
Sgurr a’ Ghreadaidh’s huge bulk behind us.
We moved together throughout the next 1.5km as far as Sgurr na Banachdich. Generally conditions were excellent but the knife-blade crest of Ghreadaidh was very taxing and required extreme concentration.
Yawning drops focus Peter’s concentration
Peter took to crampons superbly but also realised why the rocky ridges of his alpine objectives will need to be clear of snow.
The narrow crest section finally comes to an end.
Nova Scotia Gaelic students visit Skye. Wed 16 Feb
Sunrise at Sligachan was pretty spectacular yesterday.
Bronya & I accompanied a fine bunch of students, their teachers and Explorica guide Thea Stevens to give them a feel for their roots.Many had ancestors forced to emigrate in the clearances of the 19th century.
In addition to the usual haunts around the Trotternish Peninsula we added a walk up the Tourist Route from Sligachan as far as the second bridge.
15 Feb 2011; Good snow build-up on the Ridge crest
Tom, Sam (the tango boys) & I were out again and their final wish was granted with clear skies and views of the whole Ridge. Despite a good dump of fresh snow we made good time up the Upper Rake of Mhadaidh again thanks to the consolidation of the previous wet stuff on Sunday night.
Sam takes a breather.
We played on some steep climbing for practice before heading onto the summit of Mhadaidh once more. The difference in conditions in 3 days was phenomenal with compative swift easy progress and stunning vistas. Strong wind whipped us with spindrift but, yet again, this short section of Ridge provided one of the most memorable climbs of the whole course.
Up the narrow rib with Coruisk behind
Looking back to my belayers after crossing the slab pitch
Descending into An Doras
Sunshine on Skye; Tues 15th Feb
After a few days of viewing the inside of clouds it was good to see clear skies today. The views across to the mainland and over to the Hebrides were simply stunning and left me wishing for a better camera to capture it all. We also saw a couple of Golden Eagles soaring above the Elgol peninsular. Just a fantastic day for taking in the scenery.
South summit of Bla Bheinn in the background
Cairn climbing: Always use a rope for this dangerous sport!
Looking towards Beinn na Cro and Beinn Dearg Mhor.
Valentine’s Day 2011; South Buttress Gully (III) Blaven.
Hard to say why today’s route felt so good; it was probably the overnight transformation to superb snow and ice from low levels that caught me so much by surprise. The hidden gully has amazing rock architecture throughout the entire 250m length. The climbing pitches are thought provoking but well protected. III/5- always escapable but not a push-over by any means. Mike
Great Gully on Bla Bheinn. 14 Feb 2011
Matt was out with Phil and Andy today. We had a fantastic time making our way up the Great Gully to the summit of Bla Bheinn. The cold air has finally had an effect on the hill and the snow pack is really firming up now, it was so solid that we were extremely thankful for the old footsteps. We spent some time playing with the rope, digging bucket seats and body belaying on the way up the gully. Sadly the cloud had closed in when we topped out but it did provide an opportunity for some navigation practice. It was a grand day out and many thanks to the guys for good company on the hill and an entertaining natter.
Beinn Sgreithall on the mainland rising above the mists.
Andy coming to terms with the art of body belaying!
Mike was out with Sam and Tom on Bla Bheinn as well, climbing South Buttress Gully. They looked pretty happy when they passed us on the way down and Mike would not shut up about how much fun the climbing was!
South Buttress Gully is just visible to the left of the main buttress. Great Gully is on the right of the buttress
Winter Mountaineering on Sgurr nan Gillean
SUNDAY 13 FEBRUARY.
Matt was out with Rich, Tom and James today. They went for the classic traverse of Sgurr nan Gillean, going up the West Ridge and down the Tourist Route. This is a great mountain day, taking in some short pitches of climbing, a brilliant exposed knife edge and an abseil. Your concentration has to be absolute for a good couple of hours but the reward is enjoying one of the best easy winter routes in Britain.
Climbing up Loose Chimney towards the pinnacles (The chimney was well frozen and not so loose!)
Crossing the pinnacles. There was just enough visibility to maximise the exposure, but Rich seemed to enjoy the view.
Negotiating the exposed crest at the top of the Tourist Route
James on his second ever abseil. Great effort!
Mike was also out on Sgurr nan Gillean today on Just a Boys Game (III,170m) with Sam and Tom. Thin low down, the ice got better after the 2nd pitch with quality conditions towards the top. Without good ice the line is sparse on protection and commitment felt pretty high.
Mike heading up towards 4/5 Gully with Sam and Tom
Just a Boys Game, III.
Pitch 4
12 February. Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh by the Upper Rake (Grade I)
Temperatures rose rapidly today after a cold morning making for a misty approach to eventually find the freezing level at 900m just as we hit the crest. Crampons had been needed from half-way up the amphitheatre for a mixed pitch in the rock band and on the neve above. Some unusual sculptures remain in the old snow I climbed back in November (see Gaugers gully report) but it is really just left in patches now. The crest to the summit of Mhadaidh made up for any impatience for excitement as Rich, Tom & James got their first taste of Cuillin exposure. It probably took us 50 minutes to reach the summit, a section which is less than 10 minutes in dry summer conditions. Icy groves lead to a narrow crest, an 8m vertical downclimb, some slabby traversing, another groove and finally the summit where the guys announced it was their first Munro.
The narrow rib between the 3rd & 4th tops of Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh.
The Glen Brittle side was clear of mist and views out to Rum & Canna showed that the sun was coming. The drift of snow would have let us walk out of An Dorus onto Ghreadaidh (instead of the usual 6m step) but will have to wait for another day.
Looking across the Thuilm Ridge of Mhadaidh into Coire na Creiche below.
